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Turbos dead (?) - no boost - On to RB Billets!
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07-23-2024, 03:42 PM | #1 |
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Turbos dead (?) - no boost - On to RB Billets!
*EDITED for TL/DR
So driving home the other day, I hit the fun pedal and got no fun. No CELs on the dash, just no boost. I figured I simply popped an IC or other hose off, and took it to the mechanic to diagnose. All hoses were intact. Smoke tested everything (including vac lines) with no apparent leaks, and the vacuum system all seems to be working (30psi on vac pump.) So, it seems like my turbos are toast... They were replaced under warranty at 70k miles, and I'm now at 140k, all of which were run Stage 1+ but for the last 25k miles at Stage 2+. My plan is to stay at Stage 2+ power. Given that, I'm considering upgraded options with better bearings, comp wheels, etc. 1) Is there anything else that could be the culprit here before I take the leap to new snails?It's the turbos. (See below for logs. One blower is toast.) 2) Should I be considering aftermarket or stay with OE? The RB OEM Billets look interesting with the billet comp wheel, better bearing, etc. Long wait time though. RB or Pure are the right answer for up to Stage 2+, and have great reputations. The better bearings and wastegates are no brainer upgrades for Stage2+ daily driving. 3) Are the similarly upgraded Pure Turbos (stg 1) generally considered as good as RB?Answer online is that they're basically the same quality, and with the same upgrades (bearings, wastegates, compressor wheel.) Seems like the RBs are a bit less costly, but can come with a bit longer wait time. 4) Is there a consensus on which after market unit is best? All the threads are all over the place for what's best in this situation. Seems like Pure and RB are generally considered equivalent?See above 5) How much should this labor cost me, not including the turbos? I haven't seen any other quotes. I'll share my number. My mechanic isn't cheap, but I trust him. 6) Any other wisdom to impart, or other work I should undertake while my baby is in pieces?See aboveI'm going to do BOVs, Vac Ref. Upgrade, and 1.75" inlets. Considering doing the turbo heat blankets as well.[/COLOR][/B] TIA! Last edited by AWD Addict; 07-26-2024 at 12:55 PM.. |
07-23-2024, 06:07 PM | #2 |
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Your turbos probably aren't dead. You can get boost even if only one turbo is operational. Highly unlikely that they both just gave up.
Do a log before buying new turbos. |
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07-24-2024, 07:57 AM | #3 |
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Sounds like something else is going on. It would be a one in a million chance that both turbos would instantly fail at the exact tame time.
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2007 335i, BMS DCI, BMS Chargepipe w/Tial BOV, ARM Catless Downpipes, silicone inlets, Bilstein B12 Prokit Suspension, Whiteline subframe bushings, Front/Rear M3 control arms, G-Plus FMIC, Stage 2 LPFP, Custom E40 tune by Justin (V8Bait), xHP stage 3 transmission flash, RB Two Turbos....10.90 @ 128mph
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07-24-2024, 11:26 AM | #4 |
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Well, that's what I thought. But if the vac lines are clear, the pump is at specified pressure, and the vac tanks are new, wtf else is going on here?
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07-24-2024, 01:37 PM | #5 | |
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I went ahead and reloaded the same tune file......and BAM, it fired right up and ran like a top. Strange. Maybe try reloading up your tune and see if that fixes it? Worth a shot....
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07-24-2024, 02:41 PM | #6 |
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That's good advice. I'm going to do that tonight.
Thanks bud. |
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07-25-2024, 01:44 PM | #7 |
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Alright, did a couple quick pulls this morning. DME does appear to be asking for correct boost, and just isn't getting it.
Based on this graph, it does look like one of the blowers is still trying, as it's coming out of vacuum and even got up to ~8psi for a hot minute. I didn't have time to do a full reflash, but based on this I'm not sure that's necessary anyways. There also is more play in the wastegate arm than I think is kosher, so it does appear to be New Turbo Day. Any opinions on my questions above? Sounds like both RB and Pure are at least 4wks out. Does anyone have a preference? Both seem to have the right upgraded componants (bearings, wastegate, compressor wheel), so are these really just option 1 and 1a? Last edited by AWD Addict; 07-25-2024 at 01:52 PM.. |
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07-25-2024, 03:12 PM | #8 |
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In all honesty if I were to replace my turbos today and planned to stay at stock power, I'd just get new OE ones through FCP. It's cheap, they're ready to ship right now and have a lifetime warranty. 70k is a bit of a short lifespan so I don't know that I'd be ready to deem them dead quite yet though I have no idea what else it could be.
RB turbos are excellent but there's a wait and generally speaking, the OE turbos last a long time with the one exception being the wastegates. Due to how the N54 turbos are set up, any twins are going to be in the same situation even if they have beefed up wastegates. |
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07-25-2024, 11:20 PM | #9 |
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07-26-2024, 12:29 PM | #10 |
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Alright, I'm going forward with the RB Billets. Few more questions:
1) Any benefit to the heat blankets (like what Pure sells?) https://www.pureturbos.com/product/h...ofold-blanket/ 2) I'm being advised to consider replacing the stock BPV setup, and going with a 50mm BOV. I don't want to sound like Paul Walker. Is this a smart or necessary change? I'm running the VRSF charge pipe. 3) I'm going to go with the 1.75" inlets. Are these holding up long term after an install? I know the stockers are restrictive, but they've held on for 140k miles. If these don't stay fit, it'll be a bitch to repair. I know they won't offer any real performance gains, but I like that they'll be easier on the turbos and will likely help a bit on temperatures. 4) I'm being advised to do the vacuum reference upgrade. Is this just new vac lines for the BOV? Last edited by AWD Addict; 07-26-2024 at 12:47 PM.. |
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07-26-2024, 01:05 PM | #11 | |
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2. You can get billet BPV's that will work better than the stock plastic ones, and not give you that "WOOOOSH" sounds every time you let off the gas. If you don't want to hear that...don't get a BOV. 3. I'm running aftermarket 1.75" silicon inlets on my car.....as long as you get everything clean and tight when you install them, you shouldn't have any issues with the coming off of the turbos. 4. Yes, if you run a BOV, you need a vacuum hose running to it. I got one of those adapter fittings that plugs in to the side of your throttle body...Burger Motorsports sells them. Nice clean install, and it gives you a couple of ports you can use for vacuum (or a boost gauge if you want to run one of those). Nice clean install...and you don't have to drill, tap, epoxy any fittings into your intake manifold.
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07-26-2024, 01:14 PM | #12 |
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Thanks IQ. You were the primary reference I had on the aftermarket inlets (and your results.)
I still can't figure out what the disadvantage would be sticking with the BPVs. It's not a huge increase in $, I just want to do the right thing for the car. For example, should I upgrade my old 5.5" VRSF (with the lower fin density) just for the f*ck of it? |
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07-26-2024, 01:17 PM | #13 | |
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As far as upgrading the FMIC......I would probably just wait until you get the new turbos in, and run some logs. If your IAT's aren't jumping up like crazy when you get into the boost...I would just leave it alone.
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11-04-2024, 10:34 AM | #14 |
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Reporting back. I've put half a tank of gas through the car since the RBs were installed. So far, the car feels fantastic. My car has over 140k on it, so I also added a few extras while the work was going on:
1) New silicone inlet hoses. Looking at the stock plastic units, this is a great upgrade for just general improvement on systems. 2) New ignition/fuel injection harness (it was looking pretty ratty) 3) New steering column. The Ujoint was pretty stiff, and I had an annoying squeak (presumably clock spring?). 4) New charge pipe to allow for a Tial Q BoV. This is very modest sounding, and is perfect for my goals for the car (Mostly OE looking/sounding, FBO). If I turn off the radio, and slam the throttle plate shut, I can hear it a bit. But it's a long way from boy racer. Rob convinced me this (and the 1/4" venting all-the-way through) was important for the new turbo performance. I trust him. He's great to talk to. 5) New vent hose, oil feeds and some other nuts and bolts (pun intended). Thrilled to have the car back (turbos took 5 weeks to fab). Boost performance (spool timing primarily) is meaningfully improved. Car feels snappy and powerful. I don't know that there's any more power, but zipping around town, it feels as good as ever. Only negative is I'll have to put my winters on due to November arriving, and pack up my CSL wheels for the season. I'll survive. Thanks to everyone for the guidance, help and answers, particularly IQraceworks |
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11-04-2024, 10:42 AM | #15 |
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Hello, did you put a new OEM steering column or aftermarket one? I have the same squeaking and and the u-joints are stiff/steering as well/. I read its typical to fail on e90 AWD cars.
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11-06-2024, 01:21 PM | #17 | |
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2007 335i, BMS DCI, BMS Chargepipe w/Tial BOV, ARM Catless Downpipes, silicone inlets, Bilstein B12 Prokit Suspension, Whiteline subframe bushings, Front/Rear M3 control arms, G-Plus FMIC, Stage 2 LPFP, Custom E40 tune by Justin (V8Bait), xHP stage 3 transmission flash, RB Two Turbos....10.90 @ 128mph
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