[Mik325tds]

The project has begun. This thread will describe my journey of deinstalling the diesel particulate filter (DPF) and replacing it with 2deerwhistlers' downpipe. Then getting rudzielec's tune to delete EGR,DPF and SCR functionality from the DDE combined with a stage 1 tune with slight modifications for economy.

First things first though: Installing iaknown's block-off plates for the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system is the first thing I did after bying the car in order to stop the carbon buildup (CBU). This process is very well described in the following thread and is very easy to do:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...&highlight=EGR

Then, I did the CBU cleaning job since my car is out of warranty and is at 97k miles without having it done before. My friend lee4him beat me to the task, so his and then my experience is described in this thread:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1058497
This job is advisable before getting any tune in order to have the engine performing at its nominal level before fuzzing with it.

Now begins the photo story of the DPF deinstall:
Some members said it would be quite ambitious to do it on the floor with ramps and jack stands but it turned out to be quite straight forward. Here's a picture of the jacked up car. It turned out that the front jacks with 6 nodges up where just high enough in order to get the DPF out.

Edit Jul/05/2017: Chief Orman was so nice to put together a document with the most important steps and some more info in order to print out or give to your mechanic. Here it is:
If you have any suggestions on what should be explained in the document, please shoot me a PM.

[Mik325tds]

Next, disconnect the battery and make sure to place a towel over the latch so the trunk lid won't close. Since the lock unlocks electrically, it would be a pain to get it back open again without battery.

[AustinMsport]

This is awesome! So looking forward to this!

[Mik325tds]

Here's a picture with the underpanels removed exposing the lower end of the DPF. The N0x sensor (left) and Exhaust temp sensor (right) can stay with the DPF and will be completely removed, disonnect the connectors and unclip the cables. On the top right we can see the Selective Catalyst Reduction (SCR) metering unit which sprays the urea into the exhaust gases in order to reduce NOx emissions. This one will also be removed in this process.

[Mik325tds]

The passenger side engine mount will have to be removed in order to slide out the DPF. Removing the metal panel under the engine mount exposes the vacuum line which needs to be disconnected.

[Mik325tds]

Next, I removed the SCR metering unit:

[Mik325tds]

After removing the engine cover, air filter housing and cabin air filter with panel I opened the wite box and disconnected the engine control unit (ECU). This is Bosch's DDE7.3 or EDC17CP09 which is upgraded from the European version in order to deal with the additional input for DPF and SCR system and associated CPU utilization. It has a special tamper protection so there are not many ready available tuning tools available. Jarek (JR Auto, rudzielec ) has one and really knows his stuff. His tune is recommended by many members of this board.

[Mik325tds]

Using multiple extensions I was then able to remove the nut which connects the engine mount with its damper. The V-band clamp which connects the DPF with the upper exhaust manifold is also accessible from here with an E10 Torx.

[Mik325tds]

Next, I disconnected all sensors going to the DPF. The worst one was getting to the differential pressure sensor which is used by the DDE to judge the soot level of the DPF. I wanted to completely remove it, but others might choose to just disconnect the hoses from the DPF, plug them shut and leave the sensor in the car.

[Mik325tds]

Now the tricky part. How to support the engine in order to remove the engine mount?
Following Jess' advice, I supported the engine at the flat spot that connects the AC compressor with the engine block. I used a sign post and some wood pieces to distribute the weight evenly and adjust length. I then lifted the car slightly to slide in the post and settled the car back on the jacks which lifted the engine about 3/4".

[Mik325tds]

Sweet sailing from here: Remove engine mount (4x E12 torx), unbolt the DPF from the rest of the exhaust, remove DPF support and top screw and slide out the DPF. It was quite tight so I needed to unbolt (E14 torx) a mount that holds a cable clip (see picture below on the left).

[Mik325tds]

So much for today. More tomorrow:

[JoosyJoos]

This is amazing. Thank you for taking the time to put this together.

I wish someone would do this for the methanol install & wiring haha

[demon]

Originally Posted by JoosyJoos

This is amazing. Thank you for taking the time to put this together.

I wish someone would do this for the methanol install & wiring haha

I am working on it for using the washer reservoir. Have figured out how how mount the pump and have a bracket built, just need to figure out the plumbing and wiring..... Will post when I am happy with results.

[Persian Whisperjet]

Mik this is amazing -- thanks for taking the time.

[GadgetBMW]

Excellent write-up! Appreciate you taking the time to document the DPF removal!

[BB_cuda]

post #11 shows the wastegate that iaknown "opened up". See exhaust thread for why. Save your diffuser that goes between the DPF and midpipe flanges. One forum member put this back to show benefit of some back pressure in path to keep boost pressure from going too high. If you're for sure going to open exhaust, now is the time to think of addressing the wastegate or diffuser "put back". Go read that thread where the folks are addressing overboost.

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

post #11 shows the wastegate that iaknown "opened up". See exhaust thread for why. Save your diffuser that goes between the DPF and midpipe flanges. One forum member put this back to show benefit of some back pressure in path to keep boost pressure from going too high. If you're for sure going to open exhaust, now is the time to think of addressing the wastegate or diffuser "put back". Go read that thread where the folks are addressing overboost.

I was following that thread closely as I remember that Jarek told me that the stage 2 tune and hard driving could cause overboost issues because the waste gates were not able to get rid of the pressure fast enough.
I just talked to Jarek again 2 days ago addressing this issue and he said it is definitely a good idea to port it while I'm at it. Here's a closer look at the low pressure turbo and wastegate:

[Mik325tds]

Thanks for the kudos, folks. I'm glad this is of help to you.
Here are some more pictures of the swirl plate, and both ends of the DPF. I'm very much surprised on how clean everything is. Even though I purposely waited until the car just finished a regen cycle, I would have expected at least some soot.

[Puerto Rican 335d]

Got to give it you amigo Mik325tds you got some cojones to do this on your own. I opted for my mechanic with a Stall cause i sure would of not made it on my own. Kudos and good luck now you will see the real 335d!!!

[BB_cuda]

what is the last photo in post #19? inlet to DPF?

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

what is the last photo in post #19? inlet to DPF?

That's a close-up of the entry side of the DPF. You can see one of the temp sensors on the right.