[RumanAmin]

Hi guys,

I bought my E92 over a year ago and it’s just been brilliant…except the wheels. I have 19” MV4s running on normal non-runflat tyres yet both rear wheels keep bloody cracking every now and then. It’s so frustrating and just feels like a waste of money every time I take one to be welded.

I’d like to drive my car without worrying my wheels might crack at any time so need some advice on which will be the best option/most durable against cracking.

1. Are MV4s specifically the issue? If yes then 313s looks a good option?
2. Would going down to 18” wheels solve the issue?
3. What about choosing non BMW branded wheels?
4. Specific brands of tyres that might add to the durability?

Thanks for the help!

[JM85]

I belive that 313's are also prone to cracking, haven't heard of any MV3's with cracks though

[AlanYoro35i]

never had any problems after changing to genuine 314 and upping the profile to 35 instead of 30 made alot of difference.

[Aragorn30d]

Originally Posted by JM85

I belive that 313's are also prone to cracking, haven't heard of any MV3's with cracks though

When i had tyres fitted last month, the garage noted that both my rear MV3s have cracked and been welded previously.

[Ash_BMW]

Just had same issue on my E93. I thought i had puncher so forked out £250 for a new run flat, for it to be ruined days later then finding out it was a cracked alloy.

Had it welded and both rears replaced with non run flat tyres, i now have ZERO confidence in my alloys.

[djgandy]

This topic has been done to death really.

The issue is low profile in combination with run-flats. When you hit a bump, instead of the tyre compressing and taking some of the initial impact, the reinforced sidewall transmits that through to the alloy. All the cracks I've seen appear in the same place, the inside edges, probably because this is where most of the load of the car is and it is slightly weaker than the outside as it has no spokes.

Think of run-flats like having a reinforced steel insert in your running shoes. They are going to bloody hurt! On the plus side, if while you are running the bottom of your shoe falls off, you can continue running on a rock solid piece of steel.

The solution is simple:
Ditch run-flats and in the process save yourself hundreds on tyre costs and improve ride quality.

A thicker profile is not really an option unless you go 17" or lower rim diameter. The 45/50 profile run-flats are not too bad these days, but you are really going to struggle to get a 45/50 profile on a 18/19" wheel on an E92.

OH and buy tyre goo. Asda have holts tyre weld for like £4 at the moment, stick 3 of these in your boot and a pump and you won't need to worry about run-flats.

[AlanYoro35i]

standard 19 rear profile is 30, just by upping the next size up , it will fit fine and you won't notice anything change and the topic is 19" in this page so the op had 30. 35 profile plus non run flat and you're sorted.

[Calluhan]

Originally Posted by djgandy

This topic has been done to death really.

The issue is low profile in combination with run-flats. When you hit a bump, instead of the tyre compressing and taking some of the initial impact, the reinforced sidewall transmits that through to the alloy. All the cracks I've seen appear in the same place, the inside edges, probably because this is where most of the load of the car is and it is slightly weaker than the outside as it has no spokes.

Think of run-flats like having a reinforced steel insert in your running shoes. They are going to bloody hurt! On the plus side, if while you are running the bottom of your shoe falls off, you can continue running on a rock solid piece of steel.

The solution is simple:
Ditch run-flats and in the process save yourself hundreds on tyre costs and improve ride quality.

A thicker profile is not really an option unless you go 17" or lower rim diameter. The 45/50 profile run-flats are not too bad these days, but you are really going to struggle to get a 45/50 profile on a 18/19" wheel on an E92.

OH and buy tyre goo. Asda have holts tyre weld for like £4 at the moment, stick 3 of these in your boot and a pump and you won't need to worry about run-flats.

He is already running non-run flats mate

[Digitalize]

Ironically 2 of my wheels have cracked AFTER fitting non runflats. They're just poorly made. MV3s. Best bet is to get another brand of wheel. BMWs are too brittle.

[Raju88]

Originally Posted by RumanAmin

Hi guys,

I bought my E92 over a year ago and it’s just been brilliant…except the wheels. I have 19” MV4s running on normal non-runflat tyres yet both rear wheels keep bloody cracking every now and then. It’s so frustrating and just feels like a waste of money every time I take one to be welded.

I’d like to drive my car without worrying my wheels might crack at any time so need some advice on which will be the best option/most durable against cracking.

1. Are MV4s specifically the issue? If yes then 313s looks a good option?
2. Would going down to 18” wheels solve the issue?
3. What about choosing non BMW branded wheels?
4. Specific brands of tyres that might add to the durability?

Thanks for the help!

Go down to 18's, you'll get a better profile tyre so more cushion when going over speed bumps/potholes and be crack free

[bytejunkie]

Originally Posted by Digitalize

Best bet is to get another brand of wheel. BMWs are too brittle.

is this statement backed up by any others? I agree, probably because german roads are better than ours, and ours have deteriorated vastly since 2008's recession.

I've got MV3's, think they've got cracks in the rear. watching all sorts of alloy sales at the moment, will have to do something about it when i get back from holiday.

Matt

[Digitalize]

You have cracked wheels, I have cracked wheels, hundred others have cracked wheels. Soft wheels dent, brittle wheels crack. Strong wheels do neither.

I'd rather have a wheel that bends than cracks, at least it still holds air and can generally be beaten back in to shape/weighted out.

[OGM2LCI]

You wouldn't be able to just change the tyre profile on the same alloys without knocking the speedo out, however changing the width of the tyres from 225-235front and from 255-265rear will increase the sidewall slightly...has made mine much softer and you can feel the tyre absorbing more of the bumps in the road, has made me a little less worried about my alloys cracking

If that's not an option then I can't help as I hate the look of 18's and aftermarket alloys on the E92 unless they're 1M genuines/replicas

[Jase 320d]

Originally Posted by Digitalize

You have cracked wheels, I have cracked wheels, hundred others have cracked wheels. Soft wheels dent, brittle wheels crack. Strong wheels do neither.

I'd rather have a wheel that bends than cracks, at least it still holds air and can generally be beaten back in to shape/weighted out.

My front left is bent

Still holds air and doesnt vibrate around so i just live with it (more of a flat spot)

[BirdsEye]

As you know this is a nightmare issue. I had cracks in my alloys that I had welded and then put new runflats on. Within 200 miles more cracks appeared (one of them even in the same spot the weld was) - on that note if anyone wants 4 almost brand new bridgestone runflats let me know :-)

I bit the bullet and bought wheels from ******** off here who were great, and then fitted non-rtf's. Made a huge difference, but I would just stay away from BMW alloys for this generation. Plus aftermarket ones look nicer than most!

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by Digitalize

You have cracked wheels, I have cracked wheels, hundred others have cracked wheels. Soft wheels dent, brittle wheels crack. Strong wheels do neither.

I'd rather have a wheel that bends than cracks, at least it still holds air and can generally be beaten back in to shape/weighted out.

As BMW rims can bend and/or crack, there is one other factor... fatigue. Also if welding a fatigued wheel, we can understand why some users have more cracks.

Two main options, stronger rims or down size to sensible rim diameters for poor UK roads. I've seen rims with multiple cracks, hence why fatigue is a likely candidate as a cause of failure.

Personally I limit my rim sizes to allow the tyres to be part of the road shock absorbing system.

HighlandPete

[jordanl5182]

Just had this problem - does anyone know of anyone who can repair in Hertfordshire on a weekend? And how much should I expect to pay for weld up a small crack?

[Digitalize]

£50-60 for them to do all the work.

[Aragorn30d]

One of my brothers 17's has a crack, so clearly tyre profile alone isnt a guaranteed fix.

[RumanAmin]

Just FYI as to why I started this thread. Yes the topic of cracked wheels has been done to death but mostly about people saying their wheels have cracked but not much out there about recommendations on wheels/tyres that would help avoid this nightmare.

[Processing61]

Originally Posted by RumanAmin

Just FYI as to why I started this thread. Yes the topic of cracked wheels has been done to death but mostly about people saying their wheels have cracked but not much out there about recommendations on wheels/tyres that would help avoid this nightmare.

Did you ever find a good combo? Or does anyone have a link to a thread where good wheel and tyre combos are recommended?

[Rich_D]

Bearing in mind he posted that 6 years ago, so might not be on here anymore.

But the best thing you can do is ditch runflat tyres and smaller wheels are less likely to crack as there's more sidewall on the tyre.

19's are worst, 18's still crack (I've had an MV3 and a 216 both crack), 17's don't seem to be affected even with runflats, or it's not widely reported.

But in the 2 E90's I've had, once the runflats were removed and they were on normal tyres, I've not cracked a wheel, that's running OEM 18's.