[LivingInSalt]

It's just a car

[OriginalFake]

Originally Posted by LivingInSalt

It's just a car

Even so, what's an extra 30 seconds walking to the grocery store for peace of mind?

[LivingInSalt]

It makes you look like a complete tool and invites a keying

[PP3121]

While I will not obsess over the looks, I do want the car to look as nice as possible for as long as possible.

Get your steps in if you wish.

[KJ10]

Originally Posted by LivingInSalt

It makes you look like a complete tool and invites a keying

I disagree. Maybe if you are the guy who parks in the back and takes up 4 spots, that is just unnecessary. But I don't think parking towards the back of any lot invites issues or makes you look bad. I always do it. The width of the average parking space and the weight of the average American just don't line up. I'd rather park anything I own away from people.

[Cwatt79]

I don't necessarily always park in the back of the lot, but I always look for a "good" spot, i.e. one where the cars on either side are not hugging the line. I will never squeeze my car into a tight spot. My favorite is an end spot.

Also, doing this has nothing to do with the value of the car I'm driving. I do the same thing in my $50k BMW and my $6k Honda because I take pride in keeping my cars looking good regardless of their age or market value.

[G42UPRA]

Personally, where I park depends on where I'm going. People love to break into cars at the gym so I try to park within eye sight of the entrance to deter would be thiefs (never leave anything in my car at all either). If I'm at the grocery store I'll try to at least park out of the way... a few rows from the entrance or toward the back half of the lot.

I made it ~8 years with my current vehicle with one minor ding and just recently someone definitely scratched a rear quarter panel.

Anyway.... I'll be doing front half PPF and at home Ceramic on the 240 when she arrives.

[XC3LLR8]

Originally Posted by meshuggah

Personally, where I park depends on where I'm going. People love to break into cars at the gym so I try to park within eye sight of the entrance to deter would be thiefs (never leave anything in my car at all either). If I'm at the grocery store I'll try to at least park out of the way... a few rows from the entrance or toward the back half of the lot.

I made it ~8 years with my current vehicle with one minor ding and just recently someone definitely scratched a rear quarter panel.

Anyway.... I'll be doing front half PPF and at home Ceramic on the 240 when she arrives.

The back-40 is usually where employees have to park, so I do not see the connection of parking "correctly", but far away, as an invitation to get keyed. The fact someone thinks like that makes me wonder if it's a reflection on their own past actions.

[G42UPRA]

Originally Posted by XC3LLR8

The back-40 is usually where employees have to park, so I do not see the connection of parking "correctly", but far away, as an invitation to get keyed. The fact someone thinks like that makes me wonder if it's a reflection on their own past actions.

Not sure if you meant to quote me on this one? Lol

[XC3LLR8]

Originally Posted by meshuggah

Not sure if you meant to quote me on this one? Lol

Sorry, I didn't.

[fortysecond]

Guys, do yo mind sharing contacts of PPFs you use?
DM is fine. Just interested to know what will be the price of the from (bumper, hood, fenders, or just bumper).

[MPR]

Xpel Ultimate Plus pre-cut front bumper kit and kidneys

SunTek Reaction on the hood and headlights

[HawksG42]

I’m in Arizona…..we park in the shade….even if it’s a mile and a half from the door….😂

[PP3121]

Came back to the original post, and just read all of them again.

Decided not to do any. Now I have swirls from my own inexperience, and worse, someone in a parking lot hit my passenger side door, chipping the paint and leaving a slight dent. Ceramic would not have prevented that, right? And, a full front PPF would not have covered the doors.

Went to a top-detailing spot ... 7-8k for a full car! Not to mention the work that will be needed for the dent and chip.

Still on the fence if the PPF is worth it.

Anyone get either and had regrets?

[Dbimmer]

Swirls could’ve been avoided with Ceramic. But ppf wouldn’t have protected from ding. So better use the money saved to repair that imo

[Gravityct]

I'd say it depends on a few things. If you're on the freeway/traffic heavy areas I'd go ppf. If you dont have to be worried about getting sandblasted all the time I'd go with polish/wax. If you're not into "maintenance" then paint correct and high quality coating.

I personally don't like ppf due to inevitability of tree sap landing on it which has happened on multiple vehicles each time resulting in a opaque spot forever on the ppf. Also ppf can get scratched and even the "healing" ppf will still show swirls if they're bad enough. That and it can be a bear to remove/replace.

Ceramic is great until it isn't and then again it's a real pain to restore.

If you can get away with it waxing is the way to go imo. You can correct it easily and maintain a nice gloss. Granted you need to be more mindful regarding chips/scratches.

This recommendation is for a daily driver btw. If you have a garage queen or show vehicle that is meticulously maintained and never brought out in weather I'd lean more towards paint correct and ceramic.

[PP3121]

Originally Posted by Gravityct

I'd say it depends on a few things. If you're on the freeway/traffic heavy areas I'd go ppf. If you dont have to be worried about getting sandblasted all the time I'd go with polish/wax. If you're not into "maintenance" then paint correct and high quality coating.

I personally don't like ppf due to inevitability of tree sap landing on it which has happened on multiple vehicles each time resulting in a opaque spot forever on the ppf. Also ppf can get scratched and even the "healing" ppf will still show swirls if they're bad enough. That and it can be a bear to remove/replace.

Ceramic is great until it isn't and then again it's a real pain to restore.

If you can get away with it waxing is the way to go imo. You can correct it easily and maintain a nice gloss. Granted you need to be more mindful regarding chips/scratches.

This recommendation is for a daily driver btw. If you have a garage queen or show vehicle that is meticulously maintained and never brought out in weather I'd lean more towards paint correct and ceramic.

Appreciate the detailed opinion. This is a daily driver - no garage, and I absolutely love it!

I have never waxed, so I am reluctant to do that. I've always had light colored cars that hid much of the damage I am sure I caused. Now with the TNM, everything is so visible. That being said, I was leaning towards learning how to use an orbital polisher and do my own every couple of months.

Any brands you would recommend for a novice that would not necessitate having to upgrade later. I would prefer a good quality tool from the get go. As with everything, many variables to consider, right? Pads, type of wax, etc...

TY

[Gravityct]

Flex makes decent polishers. Rupes does as well but flex is more.. flexible in what you can run for pads etc. Getting into paint correction isn't for the feint of heart nor is it easy to choose the right product. Everyone has an opinion on which product works best. My best recommendation is not to be cheap but you don't need $$$$$ equipment either. Trial and error to find what works best for you and your style. If you've never paint corrected I would find doner cars to practice on and start with products that have minimal cutting and maybe even products that break down in cutting as used to avoid possibly damaging your paint. A high cut abrasive on an edge will roll right through your paint fast and if you haven't developed the "feel" for it you will cause problems for yourself. Read watch and practice and you shouldn't have any trouble. As far as waxes there are a ton of options/opinions and it kinda boils down to what you want the end result to be. Some waxes last a long time but are hard to apply/remove and dont give you as much depth/wet look as possibly another wax that will look great but may need to be reapplied every several weeks.
I wish I could give you an exact list of what to buy but it just isn't that simple sadly.
Stick with quality products with decent testimonials and you should have good results regardless of what it is.

[PP3121]

Originally Posted by Gravityct

Flex makes decent polishers. Rupes does as well but flex is more.. flexible in what you can run for pads etc. Getting into paint correction isn't for the feint of heart nor is it easy to choose the right product. Everyone has an opinion on which product works best. My best recommendation is not to be cheap but you don't need $$$$$ equipment either. Trial and error to find what works best for you and your style. If you've never paint corrected I would find doner cars to practice on and start with products that have minimal cutting and maybe even products that break down in cutting as used to avoid possibly damaging your paint. A high cut abrasive on an edge will roll right through your paint fast and if you haven't developed the "feel" for it you will cause problems for yourself. Read watch and practice and you shouldn't have any trouble. As far as waxes there are a ton of options/opinions and it kinda boils down to what you want the end result to be. Some waxes last a long time but are hard to apply/remove and dont give you as much depth/wet look as possibly another wax that will look great but may need to be reapplied every several weeks.
I wish I could give you an exact list of what to buy but it just isn't that simple sadly.
Stick with quality products with decent testimonials and you should have good results regardless of what it is.

Really appreciate the time and info!