[Migelito]

I would appreciate if somebody can post a step-by-step procedure on how to change the brake fluid in 328xi 2008? Never done it myself, the warranty is gone, and dealership wants 150 bucks plus taxes for this. Could not find DIY here but heard it was very easy to change it.

few basic questions:
1. what fluid is better for my car? how much?
2. what tools do i need?
3. how much time will it take if i never done it before? (I'm a good technical level person, friendly with bolts, nuts, and stuff...)

would appreciate any help and guidance, especially if figures are provided.

[ENINTY]

Tools:

4 jack stands
floor jack
17MM socket and breaker bar (to remove the wheels)
Torque wrench (to re-install wheels and torque wheel bolts)
set of flare-nut wrenchs (10MM IIRC) to open bleeder valves on the calipers, or special brake bleeder wrench will work also
turkey baster
rags
brake clean
clear plastic tubing and a small jar, or a brake bleeding canister
extra person, or a vacuum/pressure brake bleeding canister

Procedure:

Lift car
remove wheels
suck fluid out of the master cylinder with turkey baster, refill with fresh fluid

Bleeding:

Start with the right rear wheel:
attach small plastic hose to bleeder valve and put into jar with fresh fluid to cover the end of the hose so no air will get in the caliper.
slightly open valve
have partner gently push down on brake pedal (do not bottom it out) several times until fresh fluid comes out of the caliper.
Repeat bleeding steps on the other wheels in this order:
left rear
right front
left front

Wipe and clean up spilled brake fluid with brake clean.
install wheels (might as well rotate them)
lower vehicle

If you don't have these tools, then just pay and indy shop to do it for you.

[Migelito]

Originally Posted by ENINTY

Tools:

4 jack stands
floor jack
17MM socket and breaker bar (to remove the wheels)
Torque wrench (to re-install wheels and torque wheel bolts)
set of flare-nut wrenchs (10MM IIRC) to open bleeder valves on the calipers, or special brake bleeder wrench will work also
turkey baster
rags
brake clean
clear plastic tubing and a small jar, or a brake bleeding canister
extra person, or a vacuum/pressure brake bleeding canister

Procedure:

Lift car
remove wheels
suck fluid out of the master cylinder with turkey baster, refill with fresh fluid

Bleeding:

Start with the right rear wheel:
attach small plastic hose to bleeder valve and put into jar with fresh fluid to cover the end of the hose so no air will get in the caliper.
slightly open valve
have partner gently push down on brake pedal (do not bottom it out) several times until fresh fluid comes out of the caliper.
Repeat bleeding steps on the other wheels in this order:
left rear
right front
left front

Wipe and clean up spilled brake fluid with brake clean.
install wheels (might as well rotate them)
lower vehicle

If you don't have these tools, then just pay and indy shop to do it for you.

Thank you ENINTY!

the only thing which seems to be a problem is basically a torque wrench.
And although I do not have 4 jack stands I can figure it out with some bricks or whatever to support the car. Otherwise, can it be done just by lifting 1 wheel at a time?

do I really need the plastic tubing attached to a bleeder valve? can I just put some jar underneath the bare bleeding valve and let the fluid spill into that jar?
I was wondering, when the other person is gently pushing the brake pedal and releasing it, will the brake fluid (if tubing is attached) first be transferred out of the caliper but upon releasing it would come a little inside (and that is why the hose should be placed into the jar with the fresh fluid to prevent the air to be sucked inside instead of the fluid)? otherwise I do not understand the necessity to use plastic hoses...

as far as I understand i would nee just about 1 liter of the fresh fluid for all 4 wheels?

thanks for answering!!

[Glim]

Brake fluid Threads:

Brake Fluid Flush

330i Flush


If you do end up picking up a Motive bleeder bottle please pick up the magnetic catch bottle, it is really handy for draining (vacuuming) the resevoir and also catching the fluid from the bleeder screw.

Put teflon tape on the thread where the brass threaded 'euro threaded cap' hose attaches to the brass thread on the power bleeder or else suffer from brake fluid slowly draining out of the threads during the fluid change.

Take a newspaper and cut out a circle in the middle, fit that around the brake fluid reservoir before starting, it will catch any drips as brake fluid on paint is very bad.

If you are in Canada pop by NAPA, they can order you in Castrol GTX LMA brake fluid for cheaper than the NAPA branded fluid. Picked up a case and it came to about $4 per bottle, we use about 3 bottles per flush.

Once you are finished do a service reset on the brake fluid.

Picture of brake fluid service light

[Migelito]

Originally Posted by Glim

Brake fluid Threads:

Brake Fluid Flush

330i Flush


If you do end up picking up a Motive bleeder bottle please pick up the magnetic catch bottle, it is really handy for draining (vacuuming) the resevoir and also catching the fluid from the bleeder screw.

Put teflon tape on the thread where the brass threaded 'euro threaded cap' hose attaches to the brass thread on the power bleeder or else suffer from brake fluid slowly draining out of the threads during the fluid change.

Take a newspaper and cut out a circle in the middle, fit that around the brake fluid reservoir before starting, it will catch any drips as brake fluid on paint is very bad.

If you are in Canada pop by NAPA, they can order you in Castrol GTX LMA brake fluid for cheaper than the NAPA branded fluid. Picked up a case and it came to about $4 per bottle, we use about 3 bottles per flush.

Once you are finished do a service reset on the brake fluid.

Picture of brake fluid service light

Glim, those 330i instructions were quite clear. Though I still got couple of questions.

they write:

5. Have a friend sit in the vehicle and pump the brake pedal a few times to get it firm. Using an 11mm wrench, slowly open the bleeder screw releasing the bubbles and old fluid into the container. When the brake pedal reaches the floor, close the bleeder.

6. Repeat this process until you get no more bubbles coming out of the hose. It may take a few times to get it all out.

should my friend keep pressing it while I am opening the bleeder screw? and as soon as the pedal reached the floor I should close the screw?
is it important that the pedal goes all way down? I read somewhere here that the pedal SHOULD NOT reach the floor... any comments on that?

[Glim]

Yes, when the bleed screw is open the pedal will sink to the floor and brake fluid will come out.

Close the screw
Raise the pedal
Push pedal down
Open screw
Fluid comes out
Repeat until new fluid comes out

Push a rubber tube over the bleeder screw and run it into a catch bottle with some brake fluid in it just in case someone messes up, it will suck fluid back into the system (not air.)

[Migelito]

Originally Posted by Glim

Yes, when the bleed screw is open the pedal will sink to the floor and brake fluid will come out.

Close the screw
Raise the pedal
Push pedal down
Open screw
Fluid comes out
Repeat until new fluid comes out

Push a rubber tube over the bleeder screw and run it into a catch bottle with some brake fluid in it just in case someone messes up, it will suck fluid back into the system (not air.)

Great, now it seems all clear. I think will be able to do it myself with a buddy... don't wanna pay some 100+ bucks for this task.


BMW dealer offered me their own original brake fluid for $6.99+taxes per bottle (12 oz) and mentioned i would need 3 bottles (about 1 liter in total) to flush all 4 wheels. Is it a robbery? or fair price for BMW brake fluid?

[Glim]

That is up to you, it's probably ATE brake fluid, I tried to buy it from my BMW dealer but the do not sell it.

[Migelito]

Originally Posted by Glim

That is up to you, it's probably ATE brake fluid, I tried to buy it from my BMW dealer but the do not sell it.

well, they told me it was their original BMW brake fluid sold by bottles - not any other brand like ATE or something.
check it our here - i think this is the one...

[ENINTY]

Originally Posted by Migelito

Thank you ENINTY!

the only thing which seems to be a problem is basically a torque wrench.
And although I do not have 4 jack stands I can figure it out with some bricks or whatever to support the car. Otherwise, can it be done just by lifting 1 wheel at a time?

do I really need the plastic tubing attached to a bleeder valve? can I just put some jar underneath the bare bleeding valve and let the fluid spill into that jar?
I was wondering, when the other person is gently pushing the brake pedal and releasing it, will the brake fluid (if tubing is attached) first be transferred out of the caliper but upon releasing it would come a little inside (and that is why the hose should be placed into the jar with the fresh fluid to prevent the air to be sucked inside instead of the fluid)? otherwise I do not understand the necessity to use plastic hoses...

as far as I understand i would nee just about 1 liter of the fresh fluid for all 4 wheels?

thanks for answering!!

You need to think about what you are doing. I can tell by your questions you do not have much experience with working on cars. Having a person in the car and moving around when it is in the air on blocks, or something other than jackstands is VERY dangerous. Taking one wheel off at a time is another way of doing it except if you get air back in the system, you'll have to start over.

Any mechanic can flush the system for you. Try an independent shop and not the dealer. Having the car not properly supported is dangerous and is your life really worth $100? Your head and upper torso will be in the wheel well, if the car were to fall on you you'd probably just suffocate to death (folded over with your head up your ass) rather than being instanly killed. Just think about it. It's a $100. You'll spend that much this weekend partying.

[Migelito]

Originally Posted by ENINTY

You need to think about what you are doing. I can tell by your questions you do not have much experience with working on cars. Having a person in the car and moving around when it is in the air on blocks, or something other than jackstands is VERY dangerous. Taking one wheel off at a time is another way of doing it except if you get air back in the system, you'll have to start over.

Any mechanic can flush the system for you. Try an independent shop and not the dealer. Having the car not properly supported is dangerous and is your life really worth $100? Your head and upper torso will be in the wheel well, if the car were to fall on you you'd probably just suffocate to death (folded over with your head up your ass) rather than being instanly killed. Just think about it. It's a $100. You'll spend that much this weekend partying.

thanks for warning! actually what i meant "bricks" is the lead bricks 10"x5"x2" inches (shielding material against gamma radiation). if you know what i mean you would probably even assume it is safe enough to have a person or two in the car. this is what I was using for years to support my e30 when working on it.

Anyways, if i can save those 100$ for my week end party and got experience in changing fluid i would be more happy then just paying 200$ in total over the weekend and got a hangover

[Glim]

Jack points for E9x

The first fluid change will cost more to DIY than taking it to the shop due to the fact that you need to buy a torque wrench. But if you are going to change your own rotors, pads, wheels, etc it is a great investment.

You need to pull the wheel off to get to the bleeder, you cannot do that using lead bricks, use a hydraulic jack and jack stands, you can buy a kit with the jack, two stands and two wheel chocks for $50

Also grab three hockey pucks and make two inserts, here is the thread on that use the third hockey puck unmodified for the central jack point. Always use wheel chocks and jack stands.