12-17-2023, 10:09 AM | #45 |
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Not here to rain on anybody’s parade. However, I was employed by a large oil company in both the petroleum and chemical divisions. The additives you read about are predominantly little more than expensive marketing campaigns. Yes, the majors have patented specific names for their additives/blends but take it from an insider, the 91 (or 93) gasolines you buy daily are more alike than different. YMMV (mileage-I made a funny)
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12-17-2023, 01:24 PM | #46 | |
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12-17-2023, 03:14 PM | #47 | |
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If you install a catch can I think you'll be quite disappointed in the amount of stuff it catches. On other forums owners who installed catch can have reported just a smidgen of stuff in thousands of miles. (Which is probably a good thing. If it was catching a lot of stuff it would need checking much more often than every oil change. Maybe as often as every fuel tank fill up or perhaps even more often. If the can gets too full the engine could ingest a slug of oil/water glop and this could damage the engine.) Chances are more than a smidgen of stuff is passing through just not getting trapped. A check of the intake would probably find it messy with oil that is from the oil vapor hitting the intake wall. Might mention my info is refiners put oil into the gasoline, less than an ounce per gallon. IIRC it is around 2/3rds of an ounce per gallon. (The oil is intended to provide protection against corrosion in any of the ferrous metal the oil comes into contact with.) But in 5K miles and say 25mpg average the engine has burned 200 gallons of gasoline and assuming just 1/2 ounce of oil per gallon 100 ounces of oil. That's close to a gallon of oil. Thus the engine gets exposed to far more oil via the gasoline it burns vs any that comes through the crankcase ventilation system. |
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12-17-2023, 03:43 PM | #48 | |
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After not even one tank the Boxster engine was running better most noticeably off idle. The Turbo engine did not react one way or the other to the switch to Chevron gasoline. So while Chevron Supreme with Techron made a difference at least with the Boxster engine I note Shell touted it fuels had some nitrogen additive intended to act as some fuel system/engine deposit cleanser but which in my experience didn't do diddly squat. I owned other cars after the Porsche cars. Scat Pack, Hellcat, MINI JCW; and I used in some cases discount gasoline but once in a while treated the car to a tank of Chevron. Not one time did I notice any improvement. But the cars were all new, much newer and with far fewer miles than the Turbo and even the Boxster (which at time had over 250K miles, while the Turbo around 140K miles). Unlike the Boxster but like the Turbo these car engines were fitted with wide band O2 sensors which support much more precise fueling than the narrow band O2 sensors the Boxster came with. Oh, all cars got used the same way. As my 60 mile (mostly highway miles) a day work commute car. Anyhow, after my Boxster's engine perked up I spoke with the local dealer techs. They all agreed that what I experienced was real. They admitted to either running a tank of Chevron gasoline once in a while or just using Techron out of a bottle. The service advisor I talked to told me that in walking through the shop he saw a bottle of Techron was on almost every tech's tool box. He said while the dealer's parts counter sold some fuel system/deposit remover -- I forget the brand name -- the techs all used Techron. They bought this from a local auto parts store and paid retail rather than buy what the parts department carried and buy it at a discount. At any rate I'm going to do what I can from behind the steering wheel to avoid usage that could result in a build up engine deposits. And I'll have the oil/filter changed more often. And once in a while use Techron. At some point I might have the tech remove some of the intake system so I can have a look to see how the intake is doing. |
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12-17-2023, 04:41 PM | #49 | |
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12-18-2023, 06:58 AM | #50 | |
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Techron has a liquid and vapor deposition phase. Liquid phase as the fuel with Techron flows through the fuel system and injector tips and as and Techron contact the combustion chamber/piston. Vapor phase is after the heat of combustion has vaporized the Techron and then its vapor contacts cooler surfaces and reverts back to a liquid. I would prefer to use Techron to help keep intake valve deposits from building up rather than have the build up blasted off with walnut shells. If Techron fails then the walnut shell blasting is a fall back. Or I have seen engines cleansed of deposits via a device that introduces a vapor of some engine deposit cleaner into the intake of a running engine. This is a modern day version of a technique that I was taught decades ago that involved with an up to temperature engine running at 2K to 3K RPMs then spraying (in a fine mist) distilled water into the intake. This fine water spray first in liquid phase and then vapor phase reverting to liquid removed deposits. There is also another way. Well, one that has appeared to work with port injected engines. The way involves subjecting the car/engine to a long bout of highway use. For my frequent road trips it was a bit of a puzzle, but a pleasant surprise, to after leaving home and driving (most of the time) nearly 200 miles on the freeway (at legal speeds too) and after filling up the fuel tank noticing the engine running better. In some cases a shorter drive proved to be beneficial. Had my Boxster fail smog. And this wasn't my first smog test and I had as before taken precautions to ensure the engine was ready to be smog tested. So the failure came as a surprise. Talked to two senior techs separately and both recommended a spirited drive of some miles. I followed their advice. Drove around 40 miles but the last 20 miles was pretty sedate as I ended up behind a CHP cruiser and followed it all the way back to town. Back at the test station and the car passed emissions with flying colors. I have subjected my various DI vehicles to long highway drives. From 30 miles to 60 miles to a few of the vehicles hundreds of miles. So far I have not noticed any change for better or worse. One reason is in all cases the engines were relatively new and I like to believe had not experienced any valve/combustion chamber deposit build up that an engine with more miles might experience. Also, they all are fitted with wide band O2 sensors which results in much more precise fueling thus cleaner combustion. |
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12-18-2023, 10:56 AM | #53 | |
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I have a Sam's right around the corner that I've always purchased my gasoline from and they are the lowest prices in town. Always used their premium in my Mustang and no issues, but I did have a catch can installed too. This guy seems too straight laced to take payola to promote a product, but I could be wrong. |
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12-18-2023, 11:12 AM | #54 | |
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Straight laced? Post prime time cable television is chock full of these hucksters. YMMV |
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12-18-2023, 02:09 PM | #55 |
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ANYWAY... wandering back to the OP topic, you can start your car and drive immediately. There's zero harm to doing so.
Someone asked WHY in passing, and I know the answer to that one, thanks to my local firefighters. Car manufacturers give that guidance because they don't want you idling your car in a closed garage. Best case, you set off carbon monoxide detectors in your home. (As my wife did, and why I was talking to a firefighter.) Worst case, someone dies. Car companies don't want people dying in garages, and thus cars are engineered to allow drive off immediately. If you are in open air and prefer to idle your car, that won't hurt it either, of course. |
12-18-2023, 02:11 PM | #56 |
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Also, if you are idling your car for 5 minutes in a closed garage and NOT setting off alarms, you should probably install or fix your detectors. Carbon monoxide is no joke, it kills a lot of people. The more you know.
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12-21-2023, 01:58 PM | #57 |
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Water vapor.
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12-21-2023, 02:03 PM | #59 | |
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Any SA at BMW that recommends Techron or anything else to limit deposits in an S58 is an idiot. Period.
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12-22-2023, 07:15 AM | #60 | |
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Sure you are free to not use Techron or any other engine deposit cleaner. There's always walnuts... |
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01-02-2024, 05:09 PM | #61 |
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Order of operations:
1. Clutch-in 2. Turn on car 3. Hit M1 4a. If windows are frosted, turn heat all the way up and defroster on and wait for the windows to defrost 4b. If windows are clear, wait for the RPMs to drop after start-up cycle 5. Go! When I start driving, I keep it under 3500 and generally take it easy on the throttle until the blue line on oil gauge is filled in before letting hell fly!
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01-02-2024, 05:38 PM | #62 | |
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Drives: '23 M2 & '22 X3 M Competition
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1. Hit M1 2. Hit start button 3. RPMs drop 4. Drive away |
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01-02-2024, 05:46 PM | #63 |
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It was right at the freezing point when I went out today, so 0C is not too cold for here at this time of year:
1. Start engine 2. Put on seat belt 3. Hit M1 button 4. Drive away immediately at about 2000 to 3000RPM in any gear until engine is above 70C 5. Let rip as appropriate |
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01-02-2024, 06:17 PM | #64 | |
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01-02-2024, 07:28 PM | #65 |
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04-18-2024, 01:32 AM | #66 |
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Agree that we shouldn’t warm up too long., and the comments on this thread makes sense.
However doesn’t this then make the remote engine start kinda counterproductive/redundant? |
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