[LearnSeeDecide]

Hey guys!

So I am hoping to get just a little bit more insight, due to some unfortunate events, my engine seized. This happened about two weeks after the oil level sensor went out. I did not notice any serious oil leaks during those two weeks, but I was busy and did not have time to fix it. Well, it seized up when I was on my way home, got it towed to my mechanic. Found that there was a small puncture in the oil pan, no clue how it happened, but it did. Leaves me with the decision to scrap it or replace the engine.

I ended up replacing the engine. Sourced an n54 out of Cali with 47k miles on it. Engine looked real good, did have some things that need to be replaced.

As far as maintenance goes on the "new" engine, I will be doing pretty much all of it. Index 12 injectors ( the prices of these are absolutely bonkers and I am trying to source a way to get them somewhat cheaper), water pump ( and hoses), pulleys (staying oem), belts, vacuum lines, valve cover, all the coolant hoses etc. You get the idea. What I want to make sure is that I have everything necessary to keep this a relatively safe build. My goals are to keep this in the 600-650 range ( will be having MHD custom tune it). Ill list all the parts that I currently have/are being shipped below. If anyone could give some insight on something additional I might need or if I will be fine with what I currently have, I would greatly appreciate it.


SPEEDTECH N54 PULSAR 6466 BB TOP MOUNT KIT
• Pulsar 6466 BB T4 Open, 0.96 A/R Turbo
• T4 Manifold with studs and nuts (Ceramic or Non-Ceramic options)
• 2 piece Stainless Steel Tubing
• Stainless Steel Wastegate Pipe ( Open Dump)
• V-Band Clamps
• Billet CNC Aluminum Oil & Coolant Plugs, O-rings
• Stainless Braided -4AN Oil Feed Hose, AN Fittings
• Stainless Braided -10AN Oil Drain Hose
• Stainless Steel -10AN Turbo Drain Fitting
• Stainless Steel -10AN To Engine Block Fitting
• Aluminum Charge Pipe
• Silicone Couplers
• Coolant Expansion Tank Relocation Kit

Stage 2 Bucketless LPFP Upgrade with Walbro 525

BMS E Chassis 7.5" High Density RACE Replacement Intercooler Upgrade
• 3" Including matching IC & Chargepipe couplers

3.5 BAR TMAP Sensor & PNP Adapters for N54
BMS Aluminum Replacement Charge Pipe
TIAL Q 50mm BOV
Tial BOV Flange
B58 Ignition Coils x6
B58 Ignition Coil Upgrade Adapter Kit N54
B58 NGK 94201 Performance Spark Plugs - Set of 6
MAC Single Turbo Solenoid

[SlowE92]

Originally Posted by LearnSeeDecide

Hey guys!

So I am hoping to get just a little bit more insight, due to some unfortunate events, my engine seized. This happened about two weeks after the oil level sensor went out. I did not notice any serious oil leaks during those two weeks, but I was busy and did not have time to fix it. Well, it seized up when I was on my way home, got it towed to my mechanic. Found that there was a small puncture in the oil pan, no clue how it happened, but it did. Leaves me with the decision to scrap it or replace the engine.

I ended up replacing the engine. Sourced an n54 out of Cali with 47k miles on it. Engine looked real good, did have some things that need to be replaced.

As far as maintenance goes on the "new" engine, I will be doing pretty much all of it. Index 12 injectors ( the prices of these are absolutely bonkers and I am trying to source a way to get them somewhat cheaper), water pump ( and hoses), pulleys (staying oem), belts, vacuum lines, valve cover, all the coolant hoses etc. You get the idea. What I want to make sure is that I have everything necessary to keep this a relatively safe build. My goals are to keep this in the 600-650 range ( will be having MHD custom tune it). Ill list all the parts that I currently have/are being shipped below. If anyone could give some insight on something additional I might need or if I will be fine with what I currently have, I would greatly appreciate it.


SPEEDTECH N54 PULSAR 6466 BB TOP MOUNT KIT
• Pulsar 6466 BB T4 Open, 0.96 A/R Turbo
• T4 Manifold with studs and nuts (Ceramic or Non-Ceramic [...]

Looks about right. 600+ wheel on 91/93 with this setup, just going to be a bit laggy. Just make sure to get a turbo blanket and some exhaust wrap to keep temps down. Ran my 6973 with no heat reduction and ended up burning a bunch of wiring.

[Mustafa.e92]

make sure to replace oil cooler or flush it real good if you trust that.
Good heat wrap and dei fire sleeving for turbo lines. More heat wrap for ac lines and everything in that area. Relocate wiring harness if you have the patience.
If max goal is 650 look into a slightly smaller turbo/ divided ar housing. Unless you are after times or trying to be as fast as possible the benefits of better spool will outweigh the headway of a bigger turbo. My opinion. At the end of the day it’s your car and your choice.

Just did a customer speedtech on pump gas 93 with a pulsar gtx3582. .86 divided housing. Nice turbo can’t beat it for the price and it’s water cooled. Spools really nice. Cars done a 6.3 100-200 stock di at 21 psi. Will not break any records but it’s a great daily driver

[oVeRdOsE.]

haha, yeah those wires, Ive melted them.

So 2 are for ABS sensor and 3 for the A/c pressure sensor.

Not hard to relocate, extend them and place it over the shock tower.

heat wrap around brake line is also a nice idea.

So far I had ''only'' 2 issue with my ST setup :
- melting wires
- use the wrong fuel line for the upgraded fuel pump, it melted in the fuel tank.

I've also ended up to double wrap the downpipe and adding a N57 air duct.



I'm following some honda built, and the ''hot'' turbo for the moment is those new gen PSR turbos. They are more compact and provide same CFM.

N54 are meant to get a 6262G PSR 0.85 divided ball bearing. This is what I got, and it's a blast on daily.

I'm chasing a small issue where pass 5500 rpm I have a HUGE power gain, Ive hit 607whp @ 26.5psi, but this is a hard peak around 6000rpm. The curve is pretty flat with avg 460whp.
I'm assuming my exhaust is too restrictive.

[catchcam]

Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE.

haha, yeah those wires, Ive melted them.

So 2 are for ABS sensor and 3 for the A/c pressure sensor.

Not hard to relocate, extend them and place it over the shock tower.

heat wrap around brake line is also a nice idea.

So far I had ''only'' 2 issue with my ST setup :
- melting wires
- use the wrong fuel line for the upgraded fuel pump, it melted in the fuel tank.

I've also ended up to double wrap the downpipe and adding a N57 air duct.



I'm following some honda built, and the ''hot'' turbo for the moment is those new gen PSR turbos. They are more compact and provide same CFM.

N54 are meant to get a 6262G PSR 0.85 divided ball bearing. This is what I got, and it's a blast on daily.

I'm chasing a small issue where pass 5500 rpm I have a HUGE power gain, Ive hit 607whp @ 26.5psi, but this is a hard peak around 6000rpm. The curve is pretty flat with avg 460whp.
I'm assuming my exhaust is too restrictive.

hey i have a bottom mount single turbo 335 with a 66/66 MPR turbo t3 flange and a 0.70 AR. IF you already have a 3.5 inch exhaust set up like the vrsf one then i recommend changing your turbo to one with a 1.0 AR instead. 15% more flow compared to what you have on that psr set up should see a better top end and more power i believe. i made a huge mistake with my turbo set up and will be changing it soon to a 1.0 PRECISION 68/70 soon. at the end of the day if you can create better flow you will make more power and better performance up top on same boost and timing.

[oVeRdOsE.]

Originally Posted by catchcam

hey i have a bottom mount single turbo 335 with a 66/66 MPR turbo t3 flange and a 0.70 AR. IF you already have a 3.5 inch exhaust set up like the vrsf one then i recommend changing your turbo to one with a 1.0 AR instead. 15% more flow compared to what you have on that psr set up should see a better top end and more power i believe. i made a huge mistake with my turbo set up and will be changing it soon to a 1.0 PRECISION 68/70 soon. at the end of the day if you can create better flow you will make more power and better performance up top on same boost and timing.

well, it's a daily, so I wont go with a higher a/r and 68/70 is massive.
Already I found the low end power is very low...

the psr 6262G is equivalent to a precision 64 (power wise), but faster spool.

my exhaust is 3'' single exit, and the recir dump pipe might be the cause.
Or 2nd assumption : TMAP reading is off. I'm running 48°F IAT at 27psi, makes no sense.


Ive simply run a premade map instead of a custom map now, and everything is flat.

Storing the car this weekend, so I'll play with it next year.