[Ruebarb]

The woofer is a Kicker Solo-Baric L7S, 8" 2 Ohm, wired for 1 Ohm 450 RMS

Installation on 688(HK) system.

AMP is Kicker Key 500.1, 1ohm 500 RMS, no need for LOC, also has DSP to correct missing frequencies.

Bolt is M8 X 1.25 20mm, bracket is 3DP. Mounted Amp to bracket with Dual Lock SJ3550. Needed more than the 3' of neg cable from crutchfield.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08R3BFZ27...t_details&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B095RTDGSL...t_details&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z8Q6B7N...roduct_details

I have been using an 8" kicker for years, balances out any system. If you want to rattle your doors off, then this isn't for you.

You also need to Deactivate ASD with Bimmercode, otherwise you will hear it through the sub.

[MPR]

Doesn't the booster output a high level signal? Is that what your amp accepts?
I have the Technic PNP harness inputting to a LC2i LOC to get RCA signal.

[Ruebarb]

Originally Posted by MPR

Doesn't the booster output a high level signal? Is that what your amp accepts?
I have the Technic PNP harness inputting to a LC2i LOC to get RCA signal.

The amp has a built in LOC, it accepts the high level or low level signal. Also don't need a 12v remote turn on work. Uses DC offset, goes on and off instantly with the radio. Truly all in one, did wish it had a 500 RMS 2 ohm model, but the 300 2ohms is enough. I got the gain to make the 300 but will start clipping if you go past it.

[MPR]

Originally Posted by Ruebarb

The amp has a built in LOC, it accepts the high level or low level signal. Also don't need a 12v remote turn on work. Uses DC offset, goes on and off instantly with the radio. Truly all in one, did wish it had a 500 RMS 2 ohm model, but the 300 2ohms is enough. I got the gain to make the 300 but will start clipping if you go past it.

Cool.. I want to figure out a way to mount my amp and LOC behind the trunk panel. Both are super small and my amp doesn't even get warm after over an hour of heavy use.

[Ruebarb]

Originally Posted by MPR

Cool.. I want to figure out a way to mount my amp and LOC behind the trunk panel. Both are super small and my amp doesn't even get warm after over an hour of heavy use.

Please post up pics if you do, wish I had some more power at lower volume.

[MPR]

Originally Posted by Ruebarb

Please post up pics if you do, wish I had some more power at lower volume.

I have the opposite problem, I need more highs at high volume. I have my gain just a few ticks above the minimum.

Are you open to getting a new amp?

[Ruebarb]

Originally Posted by MPR

I have the opposite problem, I need more highs at high volume. I have my gain just a few ticks above the minimum.

Are you open to getting a new amp?

Not looking to change the amp yet, still want to work it a bit more. If you have a suggestion on an all in one that has more power that can be hidden, please share.

Same, gain is adjusted low. I'm going to set it up again, have an osciliscope on the way, I was using voltage and the built in gain clipping light, also using the -10db tone this time. I may also make the adjustmets at 60% vs 75% volume. If the RMS of the woofer was closer to that of the amp, this likely would not be an issue.

[MPR]

Originally Posted by Ruebarb

Not looking to change the amp yet, still want to work it a bit more. If you have a suggestion on an all in one that has more power that can be hidden, please share.

Same, gain is adjusted low. I'm going to set it up again, have an osciliscope on the way, I was using voltage and the built in gain clipping light, also using the -10db tone this time. I may also make the adjustmets at 60% vs 75% volume. If the RMS of the woofer was closer to that of the amp, this likely would not be an issue.

The amp I use, Sundown Audio SFB-1000D, is super small and while marketed as 1000w @ 1 ohm, it dynos in at around 1,400w. Williston Audio on YouTube created a video on it. It's a full bridge design so you have to set it up correctly or it will give you problems, and you will need an LOC.

It has a max input voltage of 5v, so I used a dmm to set the LC2i Pro LOC output to around 4.9v, which allows me to keep the amp gain at the bare minimum.

Do you already have a ported box? If not, you can squeeze more output from your setup by switching enclosures.

[Ruebarb]

Originally Posted by MPR

The amp I use, Sundown Audio SFB-1000D, is super small and while marketed as 1000w @ 1 ohm, it dynos in at around 1,400w. Williston Audio on YouTube created a video on it. It's a full bridge design so you have to set it up correctly or it will give you problems, and you will need an LOC.

It has a max input voltage of 5v, so I used a dmm to set the LC2i Pro LOC output to around 4.9v, which allows me to keep the amp gain at the bare minimum.

Do you already have a ported box? If not, you can squeeze more output from your setup by switching enclosures.

Thanks, it is a sealed box, good point, I'll see what ported options I can find.

[MPR]

Originally Posted by Ruebarb

Thanks, it is a sealed box, good point, I'll see what ported options I can find.

I bought this one, and it made my sub noticeably louder compared to the sealed enclosure it was in. Quality is nice and price is right.

Skar Audio SK1X12V Single 12"... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075LSTK6L...p_mob_ap_share

[Ruebarb]

The Amp will need to be relocated, getting too hot for my comfort level behind the panel. I'll be moving it to the left Side Storage Area like MPR.

[Vudumonkey25]

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-fduNZG...Subwoofer.html

Let's say I want to do a simple amp/sub premade combo like what's in the link above just to add a little extra.

What would I need to buy?
Power and ground wire
Tenchic PNP kit? (https://technicpnp.com/product-categ...eries-g4x-g87/ Which one?

I don't know what an LOC is but do I need one?

It's been 20 years since I've done audio so I'm not up to date with this stuff

[Ruebarb]

I have this thread updated with the new AMP location

[Ruebarb]

Originally Posted by Vudumonkey25

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-fduNZG...Subwoofer.html

Let's say I want to do a simple amp/sub premade combo like what's in the link above just to add a little extra.

What would I need to buy?
Power and ground wire
Tenchic PNP kit? (https://technicpnp.com/product-categ...eries-g4x-g87/ Which one?

I don't know what an LOC is but do I need one?

It's been 20 years since I've done audio so I'm not up to date with this stuff

The PNP harness depends on your radio, do you have the Base, 676 or 688 (HK)?

The LOC is a line out converter, since our radios don't have rca (low level) outputs, we need to use a tap or the pnp harness to get the (high level) signal from the factory wire.

You can use a LOC to convert the factory high level output to a RCA. Then send that to a standard amp.

Some amps can now receive a High level signal, like the Kicker Key 500.1, so you don't need to convert it, therefore you don't need a LOC. You no longer need to use a remote 12v signal from the ignition to turn on the amps any more, this Kicker Key senses the factory signal and goes on and off with the factory radio.

Materials: simply, speaker and power/grnd wires with lugs, fuse holder, amp that can receive high level signal, PNP harness, crimp/solder, basic wiring supplies

[Vudumonkey25]

Originally Posted by Ruebarb

The PNP harness depends on your radio, do you have the Base, 676 or 688 (HK)?

The LOC is a line out converter, since our radios don't have rca (low level) outputs, we need to use a tap or the pnp harness to get the (high level) signal from the factory wire.

You can use a LOC to convert the factory high level output to a RCA. Then send that to a standard amp.

Some amps can now receive a High level signal, like the Kicker Key 500.1, so you don't need to convert it, therefore you don't need a LOC. You no longer need to use a remote 12v signal from the ignition to turn on the amps any more, this Kicker Key senses the factory signal and goes on and off with the factory radio.

Materials: simply, speaker and power/grnd wires with lugs, fuse holder, amp that can receive high level signal, PNP harness, crimp/solder, basic wiring supplies

I have the 688 HK option.

Things have changed lol

I'll do some looking and see what I want to go with

[Ruebarb]

Originally Posted by Vudumonkey25

I have the 688 HK option.

Things have changed lol

I'll do some looking and see what I want to go with

Yes, things have changes, I did some learning myself to get this install completed.

This PNP https://technicpnp.com/product/hk-op...oster-systems/

[MPR]

Pretty much what Ruebarb told you.

If the amp has high level inputs then you can get away with only the Technic PNP harness and no LOC. The only downside is you may have problems not having an amp turn-on lead.

If the amp has only RCA inputs, you'll need an LOC.. Most prefer the LC2i Pro as it allows you to adjust/compensate for the bass roll-off some manufacturers do when you crank the volume. With the LC2i, you're also guaranteed to not have any amp turn-on issues as it provides an amp remote turn on output that it uses the signal leads to detect when the radio is on.

I addition to that, power wire, inline fuse holder, speaker wire

I highly recommend adding a sub, it's a night and day difference.

[Vudumonkey25]

Thanks Ruebarb MPR

I liked that 2 slim 12 downward kicker box. Don't have to worry about hitting speakers and still have plenty of trunk

I'll see what the next few weeks brings and do a little more research

[MPR]

Vudumonkey25 I made some edits to my post that you may not have seen. Just make sure you confirm you can turn the amp on before buying an all in one unit. Not sure if those handle the power-on/remote-on factor and may need a true remote on lead from an aftermarket headunit.

[CTGT2005]

Here's my setup for a compact sub. It's a Dayton audio reference 10" in a .8 cuft truck box. I went with the CT Sounds 1500.1D amp because it's cheap clean power. It also dynos favorably on Williston Audio, and it has adjustable boost and boost frequency which allows this woofer to play basically flat to 25hz at levels that are likely to cause hearing damage. Not ideal but I rubber mounted the amp on the back of the subwoofer box to hide it from view but also make it easier to adjust with the seat down. I secured everything with Velcro under the box to the carpet and brackets to the top and floor of the trunk. You could roll this car over and it wouldn't move the sub an inch.

[Ruebarb]

Brilliant design, the M logo was a nice touch

[CTGT2005]

Originally Posted by Ruebarb

Brilliant design, the M logo was a nice touch

Thanks! So the story behind the M Logo. The box is made by B Box and it had this stupid little aluminum brand sticker on it, which I thought was just temporary. Well when I peeled it off it was actually hot glued on and looked like arse. Turns out the M Logo is exactly the right size to cover it up.