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      07-03-2018, 09:37 PM   #45
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Back to the subject at hand sort off, I think I'll be posting a new thread tomorrow (don't want to hijack this one) at some point with some pics of my chain through the oil cap. There is some serious scoring on there and I'm starting to hear a whine, may or may not be normal, that's what I need your help with! Keep an eye out for it.
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      07-03-2018, 09:42 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjdnyy224 View Post
Back to the subject at hand sort off, I think I'll be posting a new thread tomorrow (don't want to hijack this one) at some point with some pics of my chain through the oil cap. There is some serious scoring on there and I'm starting to hear a whine, may or may not be normal, that's what I need your help with! Keep an eye out for it.
eek!

Under 70k (I hope) ???
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      07-03-2018, 10:00 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sspade View Post
eek!

Under 70k (I hope) ???
68,900 😬 I'll be very detailed in my post, maybe I'm paranoid, maybe I'm being affected by the problem, that's what I'm hoping to find out.
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      07-03-2018, 10:03 PM   #48
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Aye carumba, thats close!

Im sure if you actually have an issue and it takes another few hundred miles to develop further - BMW will support you.

That would be INSANE if they didnt.

Ill shut up now... dont want to take away from tomorrow's thread!
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      12-18-2019, 08:38 AM   #49
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Did anyone replace the tensioner?


My question is how does it function, it actually has a spring inside. How does oil pressure make it function, wouldn't crankcase pressure be negative due to vacuum from turbo suction through the PCV?
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      12-18-2019, 10:19 AM   #50
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Crankcase pressure has nothing to do with TC tensioner. It works on oil pressure. It's filled with oil under pressure and that's how it holds the chain/guide in place. Spring is there just for support, not to allow too much slack at cold start. There should be a one-way valve to prevent loss of oil pressure in the tensioner itself, and I guess that's how they fail - thay lose oil pressure quickly trough that one-way valve.

Here's the video which shows basicaly how it works. It's for the older engine, but design seems to be very similar to N20 tensioner.
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      12-18-2019, 11:33 AM   #51
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Hi,

Thanks for confirming, did anyone change their tensioner on their n20/26?

Is it possible to swap out without having to hold the cams?
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      12-18-2019, 11:50 AM   #52
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I still havent but Im strongly considering repalcing mine soon.

Ive seen an E90 vid on YouTube and the guy just literally unscrews it and puts the new one in. Thats it, super simple.

Ours is located near the turbo wastegate actuator apparently. Havent personally looked for mine yet but Ive heard thats where it is.
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      12-18-2019, 04:16 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sspade View Post
I still havent but Im strongly considering repalcing mine soon.

Ive seen an E90 vid on YouTube and the guy just literally unscrews it and puts the new one in. Thats it, super simple.

Ours is located near the turbo wastegate actuator apparently. Havent personally looked for mine yet but Ive heard thats where it is.
Yeah, I'm tempted to do mine, but I think I'm looking at a whole new chain etc.

Mine was replaced 4 years ago by bmw and it appears that the chain has stretched 😔

Check my other thread, you'll see.

Strangely, sometimes the chain is tight, but others it loose. But I do have a whining noise.
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      12-30-2019, 05:09 PM   #54
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N20 Timing Change - DIY

I changed the TC on my N20 motor and wrote the attached DIY.

You will also see the oil inlet holes and perhaps get a better idea of how these work. Enjoy.
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File Type: pdf N20 Timing Chain Tensioner changed.pdf (504.4 KB, 1201 views)
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      12-30-2019, 08:40 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DBU View Post
I changed the TC on my N20 motor and wrote the attached DIY.

You will also see the oil inlet holes and perhaps get a better idea of how these work. Enjoy.
Wow... thanks a ton. You should make this its own thread. Greatly helpful!

My new tensioner has arrived and am planing to install this coming weekend. Will be using your guide, for sure.
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      12-30-2019, 08:59 PM   #56
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I hope to be able to access the two bolts under wastegate first, and flip entire unit back on pivot point of wastgate arm. Thus eliminating the need to disassemble wastegate.

I'm pretty sure this is what I did when I installed my DV+ and downpipe. Can't remember for sure!
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      01-02-2020, 10:00 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sspade View Post
I hope to be able to access the two bolts under wastegate first, and flip entire unit back on pivot point of wastgate arm. Thus eliminating the need to disassemble wastegate.

I'm pretty sure this is what I did when I installed my DV+ and downpipe. Can't remember for sure!

Yeah - you should be able to do it that way, now that you mention it. Good luck - and let us know how it went.
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      11-14-2020, 08:35 AM   #58
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My only question would be, if in fact the chain guides are weak/brittle from defective materials, per some of the lawsuits claiming so, wouldn't the increased spring tension from the re-designed tensioner make the chain wear on the guide faster? I have a 8/13 built n20 with 61,xxx miles and don't have any of the symptoms as of yet.

Last edited by m1256; 11-14-2020 at 02:23 PM..
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      08-27-2021, 03:37 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m1256 View Post
My only question would be, if in fact the chain guides are weak/brittle from defective materials, per some of the lawsuits claiming so, wouldn't the increased spring tension from the re-designed tensioner make the chain wear on the guide faster? I have a 8/13 built n20 with 61,xxx miles and don't have any of the symptoms as of yet.
I'm interested in this as well. Currently at 44k miles and zero issues but still think to replace the tensioner. Built date is 07/14
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      08-27-2021, 04:36 AM   #60
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I don’t think a tighter tensioner gives more wear (unless it is extremely tight of course). A tensioner that is too loose can result in slack in the chain, resulting in vibrations which do contribute to additional wear in my opinion.
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      08-27-2021, 07:06 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DBU View Post
I changed the TC on my N20 motor and wrote the attached DIY.

You will also see the oil inlet holes and perhaps get a better idea of how these work. Enjoy.
Nice DIY, however I have no idea why you completely dismantle the actuator. You can just undo the bottom two [s]T40[/s] T45 bolts and ‘fold’ the actuator away to get access to the tensioner.



Once the tensioner is out, you can also insert a tool to check for chain elongation, before inserting the new one.


Last edited by Jimmert; 08-29-2021 at 03:25 AM..
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      08-31-2021, 01:55 AM   #62
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Part # for that stretch measuring tool?
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      08-31-2021, 03:42 AM   #63
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BMW 83302411399 or 2411399. I bought a copy of it on eBay.
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      08-31-2021, 02:24 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmert View Post
BMW 83302411399 or 2411399. I bought a copy of it on eBay.
Any instructions on how to use that tool? I was looking to put the new tensioner in, but would like to check the chain tension at that time.

A quick Google doesn't really show much on that front, but maybe I'm asking the way.
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      09-01-2021, 02:39 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m1256 View Post
My only question would be, if in fact the chain guides are weak/brittle from defective materials, per some of the lawsuits claiming so,
The N55 used the same guides with no issues. The same chain too. Only the tensioner was different.
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      04-27-2024, 11:33 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BunkerJ View Post
Have fun with that install haha. Definitely doable but would take a day or two depending on experience: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...shaft/HipcnQuO
I can't see that TIS anymore, but the attached PDF makes it look like it would be an hour or so - basically 3-8 bolts in a fairly accessible area.

Am I misreading this?
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File Type: pdf N20 Timing Chain Tensioner changed.pdf (504.4 KB, 14 views)
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