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      01-10-2017, 12:09 PM   #1
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How Would I Replace TPMS Transmitters?

I'm in the process of replacing the rear tpms transmitter, and I'm trying to figure out is this the right way to do it?

1.) Jack up car.
2.) Remove wheel.
3.) Use a 10 mm to remove the plastic piece inside.
4.) Disconnect cable to tpms tranmistter.
5.) Remove transmitter and replace with working, and do the reverse steps.
6.) Reset BC for (I have non-idrive).

I have the Bentley manual, but i cant find where it goes into detail about this (if anyone know the page)?

Also do I need two rivets for this? I saw a video saying I have to replace the rivets with new ones every time I change them? I bought one, but it doesnt look like it would fit in the top hole.

This is the part number: 36206774888
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...h/36206774888/

Thanks in advance!
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Last edited by BMWMusician; 01-10-2017 at 03:16 PM..
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      01-10-2017, 02:56 PM   #2
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The TPMS transmitters are inside the wheels. Take it to a tire shop. They'll partially unmount tire and remount.

Are you talking about TPMS receivers?

The images aren't showing up, and I'm not sure what you are trying to install.
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      01-10-2017, 03:06 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patents View Post
The TPMS transmitters are inside the wheels. Take it to a tire shop. They'll partially unmount tire and remount.

Are you talking about TPMS receivers?

The images aren't showing up, and I'm not sure what you are trying to install.
No not the tire sensors. The tranmistter triggers (rdc) units like this:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...FQIaaQodXMgMdQ

P.S. I edited so you can see the pictures.

Last edited by BMWMusician; 01-10-2017 at 03:17 PM..
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      01-11-2017, 09:49 AM   #4
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The installation should be straighforward. You don't need new plastic rivets if you don't manage to break the old ones. Even if it only had on left, it would probably hold it. And I don't know for sure, but you may not have to program anything.
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      01-11-2017, 11:10 AM   #5
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Whats the best way to take the old ones off, and is there a bentley reference guide or explanation with pictures anywhere? Seems pretty straightforward, just wanted to prepare before doing.
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      01-11-2017, 02:41 PM   #6
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Use this:

https://www.amazon.com/Fastener-Remo.../dp/B00XCLLHCY
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      01-11-2017, 02:55 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2002 View Post
Could I just use my hands and be careful when removing it?
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      01-11-2017, 06:27 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWMusician View Post
Could I just use my hands and be careful when removing it?
I've used a wide flat blade screwdriver. Just have to work at it more and be more careful so you don't break it.
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      01-11-2017, 06:42 PM   #9
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You think it'll be wise to just have a extra rivet in case ? Also, is that the right rivet for both holes because one side looks bigger than the other.
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      01-11-2017, 09:39 PM   #10
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Those rivets are used all over the car. I keep about 15 on hand for repairs. The rivets are consumables. Just push the pin through and pull the rivet out. They cost about 22 cents each. If you push the pin out and find it you can reuse the rivet, but in most cases just use a new one.
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      01-11-2017, 11:50 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
Those rivets are used all over the car. I keep about 15 on hand for repairs. The rivets are consumables. Just push the pin through and pull the rivet out. They cost about 22 cents each. If you push the pin out and find it you can reuse the rivet, but in most cases just use a new one.
BMW charged me 2.10, where did you find them for 22 cents?
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      01-12-2017, 06:28 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWMusician View Post
BMW charged me 2.10, where did you find them for 22 cents?
Based on the pic of the rivet you posted I thought it was the same part as P/N 51161881149, but it is a different rivet. P/N 51161881149 is now 26 cents. In July 2016 I bought 10 ea. for $2.20. The part you are discussing is P/N 36206774888, which retail is $2.10 and on-line at a TradeMotion parts dealership is $1.68.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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      01-12-2017, 09:30 AM   #13
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Curious how you determined that part needed to be replaced?
I am guessing you switched out the tire sensor and still lighting up???
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      01-12-2017, 12:30 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
Based on the pic of the rivet you posted I thought it was the same part as P/N 51161881149, but it is a different rivet. P/N 51161881149 is now 26 cents. In July 2016 I bought 10 ea. for $2.20. The part you are discussing is P/N 36206774888, which retail is $2.10 and on-line at a TradeMotion parts dealership is $1.68.
+Rep. Thanks for sharing this, and I hope the part starts dropping in price. Seems a bit much for a tiny plastic part.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TomD335xicoupe View Post
Curious how you determined that part needed to be replaced?
I am guessing you switched out the tire sensor and still lighting up???
The inactive tpms light came on. I brought it in to for diagnostic at a shop, and they said the trigger was out. Also, a friend of mine did some research with the fault codes and determined the same thing.
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      01-13-2017, 12:41 AM   #15
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FYI, the-in tire TPMS sensors can cause a TPMS inactive/malfunction when the batteries in them are on their way out, but still read ok on a tire shop scan tool.

Did you use a Scanner capable of reading the BMW codes? If so, it will even tell you which wheel is going bad.
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      01-16-2017, 02:14 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomD335xicoupe View Post
Curious how you determined that part needed to be replaced?
I am guessing you switched out the tire sensor and still lighting up???
There is a specific code that gets thrown for this. DIS showed it for me when I had this same issue on my old 335i, but it went away, so I never ended up replacing it. I'm thinking there might have been a short circuit and water got into it because we were having some really heavy rains at the time. I believe starting in 2011 or the LCI models BMW changed the transmitter system to a centralized one, so each wheel well no longer has one of these.
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      01-21-2017, 05:27 PM   #17
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Having a similar issue with my TPMS light turned on. Brought the car to a tire shop where they had one of those TPMS readers and the mechanic said there's still a good amount of battery life left in each tire. On really cold days, I don't get the TPMS light and the car shows that everything is good. I can't figure out whether it's the TPMS or the transmitter that needs to be changed as the entire TPMS system will sporadically work
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      01-21-2017, 06:00 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanLH8 View Post
Having a similar issue with my TPMS light turned on. Brought the car to a tire shop where they had one of those TPMS readers and the mechanic said there's still a good amount of battery life left in each tire. On really cold days, I don't get the TPMS light and the car shows that everything is good. I can't figure out whether it's the TPMS or the transmitter that needs to be changed as the entire TPMS system will sporadically work
Did you read the codes?
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      01-21-2017, 07:10 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanLH8 View Post
Having a similar issue with my TPMS light turned on. Brought the car to a tire shop where they had one of those TPMS readers and the mechanic said there's still a good amount of battery life left in each tire. On really cold days, I don't get the TPMS light and the car shows that everything is good. I can't figure out whether it's the TPMS or the transmitter that needs to be changed as the entire TPMS system will sporadically work

I would use INPA to confirm. I brought mine to the tire shop at first and had the tire sensor replaced, and the light still came on. INPA will let you know most likely what the issue is.
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      01-23-2017, 11:24 PM   #20
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Tonight I replaced the transmitter. The TPMS light is still on, and I still get "TPMS Inactive". I reset the bc, drove around 5 miles, and same fault.

When you connect the cable back to the transmitter, is it supposed to make a click noise? Cause when I connected it to the new transmitter, I didn't hear anything, but I'm pretty sure I connected the cable pretty tight to the transmitter (wasn't rough, but wasn't loose).

Any suggestions?

I tried to use my k dcan cable with vmare3 packaged, but everytime I connect to the car and start inpa, nothing is showing under battery and ignition.
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      01-24-2017, 12:37 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWMusician View Post
Tonight I replaced the transmitter. The TPMS light is still on, and I still get "TPMS Inactive". I reset the bc, drove around 5 miles, and same fault.

When you connect the cable back to the transmitter, is it supposed to make a click noise? Cause when I connected it to the new transmitter, I didn't hear anything, but I'm pretty sure I connected the cable pretty tight to the transmitter (wasn't rough, but wasn't loose).

Any suggestions?

I tried to use my k dcan cable with vmare3 packaged, but everytime I connect to the car and start inpa, nothing is showing under battery and ignition.
Inpa is kind of finicky, which is why I switched to DIS at the time. You have to make sure your cable it connected to the vm. Once you have that working. Plug into the car, then start inpa, the press the ignition to on. You need both of those black indicator lights to be filled in to know it's connected. We really need the codes to help sort this out.

Here is a technical guide that explains the whole tpms. http://5series.net/forums/attachment...eels-tires.pdf
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      01-24-2017, 12:46 PM   #22
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I can't get inpa working to pull it up.
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