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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N57 / M57 Turbo Diesel Discussions - 335d > Gutting the SCR -- an easier way?



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      07-28-2015, 12:32 PM   #1
Persian Whisperjet
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Gutting the SCR -- an easier way?

Folks, I'm enjoying my new life of freedom post-alphabet soup, but have been eyeing the odometer as the miles piled up and the SCR presumably fills up with crud.

Gutting and swapping out the exhaust all seem like plausible solutions.

But what about the simple expedient of replacing with a short length or exhaust tubing and securing with a couple fo stainless butt joint exhaust clamps?
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      07-28-2015, 01:25 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Persian Whisperjet View Post
Folks, I'm enjoying my new life of freedom post-alphabet soup, but have been eyeing the odometer as the miles piled up and the SCR presumably fills up with crud.

Gutting and swapping out the exhaust all seem like plausible solutions.

But what about the simple expedient of replacing with a short length or exhaust tubing and securing with a couple fo stainless butt joint exhaust clamps?

+1
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      07-28-2015, 03:37 PM   #3
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Seems it would be easier to open the SCR up, cut the guts out and have it welded back shut. The tubing going in and out of it is wierd. Not even exactly oval. There are places out there that sell oval tubing but be careful what u think you need. I know if atleast 2 members that cut the stuff out of SCR. There are some sort of collapsed down spots in the OEM exhaust though (especially after the split). Good luck
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      07-28-2015, 04:07 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BB_cuda View Post
Seems it would be easier to open the SCR up, cut the guts out and have it welded back shut. The tubing going in and out of it is wierd. Not even exactly oval. There are places out there that sell oval tubing but be careful what u think you need. I know if atleast 2 members that cut the stuff out of SCR. There are some sort of collapsed down spots in the OEM exhaust though (especially after the split). Good luck
Oh yeah, right. Sad trombone sound.
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      07-29-2015, 05:43 AM   #5
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I thought about the same thing, but the exhaust on the D is pretty convoluted in shape. The oval Devin is word, and the rear section looks like it got caught in the bending machine and a few extra squiggles were put in on accident.
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      07-29-2015, 12:26 PM   #6
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Can you explain the term oval Devin please?
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      07-29-2015, 09:16 PM   #7
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Ha. Auto correct. Oval section is weird...
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      07-29-2015, 09:34 PM   #8
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There is another thread in which some of the guys are working on a full exhaust to replace the stock stuff with. Looks great and from what they said, the price point will be attractive.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1150607
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      07-31-2015, 01:37 AM   #9
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Could we not just get a section made that goes from the down pipe to where the exhaust becomes round again? Would be a lot cheaper for those of us wanting to keep mufflers
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      07-31-2015, 09:02 AM   #10
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I'm sure there are custom exhaust shops in every large metro areas. Stainless exhaust costs aren't cheap and you need to be careful on the 3" flange needed. The vibrant part isn't same as the bolt spacing on either banished one's DP nor the DPF. Banished one told me his bolt spacing spec is 4.25".

I don't think the pipe becomes round again until after the split. Custom SS pipe with mandrel bending used is more expensive than you think. Place I used did a lot of grinding polishing after welding though as they don't use TIG. The chemicals used for bending are a contaminant for TIG welding so they use MIG and then clean up the welds. My guess is my shop would charge you more than what Iaknown is asking including his mufflers.
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      08-01-2015, 12:24 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BB_cuda View Post
Seems it would be easier to open the SCR up, cut the guts out and have it welded back shut. The tubing going in and out of it is wierd. Not even exactly oval. There are places out there that sell oval tubing but be careful what u think you need. I know if atleast 2 members that cut the stuff out of SCR. There are some sort of collapsed down spots in the OEM exhaust though (especially after the split). Good luck
This is like gutting a catalytic converter. Don't even bother cutting it open. Cut the pipe near the SCR on the front end. Remove any sensors you don't want to destroy. Use a large spade drill on a long shaft and drill throught the core. The violent action of the spade with repeated thrusts will break it up. Remove the mufflers, start engine, rev it and blow the debris out the open pipes. Put it back together with a SS band clamp. It will conform to non-circular pipe sections. Slightly flare the edges of the pipes if you really want to ensure a good seal. Another trick I've used is to heat up one of the pipes red hot so that it expands enough to insert the cool pipe a 1/4 inch or so. Hit it with a small rosette weld just to keep it together for the band clamp. That trick works best with larger diameter pipes due to the greater expansion - oh, don't burn up the car in the process
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      08-01-2015, 12:52 AM   #12
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DWR, one thing to consider with a spade drill method is that in our SCR the substrate is lined with some felt material. I do not think it would get broken down in a process assuming one would be completely gutting the insides and not just opening a channel through the SCR. When I gutted mine it was very easy. Remove the exhaust, cut a rectangular opening, gut the substrate and reweld back. Very easy.
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      08-01-2015, 10:25 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yozh View Post
DWR, one thing to consider with a spade drill method is that in our SCR the substrate is lined with some felt material. I do not think it would get broken down in a process assuming one would be completely gutting the insides and not just opening a channel through the SCR. When I gutted mine it was very easy. Remove the exhaust, cut a rectangular opening, gut the substrate and reweld back. Very easy.
+1. Seems most direct way to me. You don't even need to cut all 4 sides of the rectangle if want to attempt to bend it open and bend back closed for welding. A mig set up for SS will easily bridge the gap of the cuts.

Eastwood makes little fixtures to hold adjacent panels flush while you lay in the initial spot welds. I'll see if I can dig mine up and post a picture.
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      08-03-2015, 05:01 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yozh View Post
DWR, one thing to consider with a spade drill method is that in our SCR the substrate is lined with some felt material. I do not think it would get broken down in a process assuming one would be completely gutting the insides and not just opening a channel through the SCR. When I gutted mine it was very easy. Remove the exhaust, cut a rectangular opening, gut the substrate and reweld back. Very easy.
Lining is standard stuff for all catalytic materials. The material is a kind of rock wool. IMO, not a problem. Ha, are you going to eat off the surface or push out exhaust? It doesn't need to be perfectly sanitary to get the desired effect. As long as the opening is about 1.5 times the pipe area, there won't be any real gain in flow by going bigger.

I have done this kind of mod both ways, and the method I shared is much faster. Though it may not be as "cool".

Last edited by DWR; 08-03-2015 at 05:21 PM..
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      08-09-2015, 10:29 AM   #15
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So, did anybody done this? Any pictures or tricks?
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      08-09-2015, 06:42 PM   #16
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So, did anybody done this? Any pictures or tricks?
Yozh and TDI. I think a thread called "rolling coal" is where Yozh put his pictures. Not sure about TDI.
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      08-09-2015, 06:48 PM   #17
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Post 56 here:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...1061325&page=3
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      08-09-2015, 07:10 PM   #18
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Cool!
Sorry for asking probably same question again and again.

But i am new and behind everybody with my knowledgebase.

So this is something probably good to do when working on removing DPF.
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      08-09-2015, 07:39 PM   #19
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Here's a pic I took whilst gutting the SCR. Cut in on 3 sides, lifted it up, removed inside (there's some pics elsewhere that shows the clogging of the cross sections) and welded shut.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...9&postcount=66

Also shows a section of oval pipe that I'm still thinking of using to bypass the gutted SCR, but have not done that yet. Others might not, but I like the sound the SCR cavity gives to the exhaust.
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      08-11-2016, 04:38 PM   #20
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Has anyone had issues after gutting the SCR?
I had mine gutted by a muffler shop a few weeks ago, it was fine until a few days ago.

Now it starts to make a rattling noise when coming off boost and when on light throttle. Sometimes while braking even. The noise seems to be centered on the floor right above the SCR.

I was low on fuel when it started so I thought it was due to the fuel pump possibly but it continued after fueling up.

I have full DPF delete, EGR removal with a Jarek 2.5 tune and no error codes.

Any ideas? I thought it was a missed chunck of substrate rattling around but the exhaust shop is claiming that isn't the case, although they don't want to open it up again.
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      08-11-2016, 04:44 PM   #21
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I had my SCR gutted by a local shop - no issues
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      08-11-2016, 05:01 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Owen81 View Post
Has anyone had issues after gutting the SCR?
I had mine gutted by a muffler shop a few weeks ago, it was fine until a few days ago.

Now it starts to make a rattling noise when coming off boost and when on light throttle. Sometimes while braking even. The noise seems to be centered on the floor right above the SCR.

I was low on fuel when it started so I thought it was due to the fuel pump possibly but it continued after fueling up.

I have full DPF delete, EGR removal with a Jarek 2.5 tune and no error codes.

Any ideas? I thought it was a missed chunck of substrate rattling around but the exhaust shop is claiming that isn't the case, although they don't want to open it up again.
Unbolt the exhaust and give er' a shake. A much simpler method might be to tap the bottom hard enough to make the chunk fly up (inside) and it come back down and make another tap or thud noise. The "supposed" chunk might only make noise when in certain location of cavity as you mentioned it is heard when coming off of boost. Good luck.
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