[GodsChariot]

Being new here I started this thread over on the main forum but our US cousins are not so much into oil burners like us in the UK/EU!

I have just bought an E92 325D M Sport (M57 engine) from a friend, unfortunately the miles start with a 2 (212k!) which generally kills any value, he's been quite upfront with issues that he knows of but has always had work/services done at main dealer and by his BMW tech friend.

Honestly, the car looks great for the mileage but it does have some issues, Its a manual which I understand is better for high milers but still on original clutch/DMF and the engine still feels strong.
I'm replacing some suspension and brake parts that are past their best and full service/fluids change will be needed.

I dont want to chuck too much money at it so looking to be £1000 all in with car purchase and parts with me doing the labour.

Problem for me is the concern of the chain on a high mile M57, every little ticking from the engine has me thinking "is that the chain?"

So the question is - has the M57 got a mileage shelf life no matter how well its been maintained?

[Phil325i]

More likely to fail are the plastic chain guides. Probably best to find a reputable and experienced BMW specialist to have a listen to the noises.

[jacbo]

impressive to still be on original clutch and flywheel. Mine started slipping at 160k but that's for a 330. And also if it's been sat on motorway in 6th the clutch should last well.

Ticking type of noise is pretty common with the injectors and you see plenty of M57 past 200k on original chains so personally i wouldn't be too worried

[GodsChariot]

Originally Posted by jacbo

impressive to still be on original clutch and flywheel. Mine started slipping at 160k but that's for a 330. And also if it's been sat on motorway in 6th the clutch should last well.

Ticking type of noise is pretty common with the injectors and you see plenty of M57 past 200k on original chains so personally i wouldn't be too worried

Thanks jacbo.
My friend owned the car from 99k miles so maybe it was changed before his ownership but he has no info/paperwork of the clutch/DMF being done.

Its never been mapped so I imagine that helps too, think i'll just drive it and enjoy it rather than worry what could happen!

First though its new rear shocks, rebuild both rear calipers with new seals, fit new pads/hoses and fluid flush, change gearbox and diff oil, loosen up camber bolts and rust proof the rear subframe, busy weekend coming up!!

[Phil325i]

Having suffered with several very noisy diffs, I can recommend AMSOIL Severe Gear Lube for your diff.

[GodsChariot]

Originally Posted by Phil325i

Having suffered with several very noisy diffs, I can recommend AMSOIL Severe Gear Lube for your diff.

Thanks for the heads up, I had purchased the diff oil before your post but did do research into what was needed, I went with Liqui Moly 75w90 GL5 so hopefully that goes okay, I will save the old fluid just in case!
Plan on changing this today plus gearbox oil, I went with MTF LT-3 from Westway oils for the GB..

[Tambohamilton]

My 330 is on its 3rd clutch, according to paperwork First one was done at 200mi, the car was recovered from an industrial estate with a strong smell for burning clutch - I wonder what was going on there then??

Plenty of ticks and rattles from my engine at 163k as of Wednesday, and no worries here Judging by my experience with an N47, you should get loads of warning before it lets go - so long as you're reasonably attentive. Drove said N47 for a few thousand miles with a faint chain noise, and figured I'd better do it before something bad happened...parts that came out were barely visibly worn, no cracks in guides etc. Still, I put all new parts in and it hasn't made the noise since.

[GodsChariot]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

My 330 is on its 3rd clutch, according to paperwork First one was done at 200mi, the car was recovered from an industrial estate with a strong smell for burning clutch - I wonder what was going on there then??

Plenty of ticks and rattles from my engine at 163k as of Wednesday, and no worries here Judging by my experience with an N47, you should get loads of warning before it lets go - so long as you're reasonably attentive. Drove said N47 for a few thousand miles with a faint chain noise, and figured I'd better do it before something bad happened...parts that came out were barely visibly worn, no cracks in guides etc. Still, I put all new parts in and it hasn't made the noise since.

Yeah I'm praying the clutch don't go on me, at least give me 5k miles first so I feel I have my moneys worth!
Yours being the N47 is a different engine, mine has the M57-N2, not sure what N2 signifies?

Talking of clutches/DMF, as I'am doing all the maintenance on my driveway has anyone taken on changing the clutch themselves?

Currently I'm rebuilding the rear calipers, changing the rear shocks and lower mounts, rust protecting the rear subframe, changed gearbox oil, all filters and engine oil.

Engine oil? I noticed it has taken just over 8.5L to show just below max on the dip stick, 7.5L (required amount) was only registering on the tip which just looked wrong to me, anyone else have this on the M57?

[Tambohamilton]

No, I have the same engine as you. My partner had an N47 118d, which my dad now runs.

I think N2 = TU2, which is German for the 2nd technical update. Means you have an alloy block on the 325d essentially. I believe the 330d with TU2 got piezo injectors - not sure if the 325 did too.

I haven't done a clutch on the driveway in this car. Did the 118d chains in a workshop with an engine crane (no lift). Reckon it shouldn't be too bad to do the clutch on a driveway so long as you can get the front end in the air a decent amount, safely.

I thought 8L was spec for the M57? Could be wrong. Either way I wouldn't be concerned about potentially an extra 0.5-1L of oil in there. You definitely on a level surface? I think the proper procedure for checking oil level is run the engine to operating temp, switch it off, wait 5 mins, then check oil level. Again, could be wrong.

[POBEP]

Originally Posted by GodsChariot

Engine oil? I noticed it has taken just over 8.5L to show just below max on the dip stick, 7.5L (required amount) was only registering on the tip which just looked wrong to me, anyone else have this on the M57?

The BMW (diesel) oil level check procedure is:
- engine at operating temp (88C)
- run at idle for ~1 min
- switch off
- wait 5 mins
- then check oil level.

N47 - oil (change) capacity is just a tiny bit over 5.0L

M57 capacity is ~8L.
However, I was never-ever able to put more that 7.75L in my US-spec E90 335d and E70 35d.

US variant is M57Y which is slightly de-rated EU spec M57D30TÜ2 TOP (due to SCR addition)

Others report that they are able to put 8.5L.
It is possible that (oil pan) design varied between revisions which results in 0.75L variance in oil capacity.

[ptpending]

unless the M57 was remapped, you should'not bother about chain at this mileage.
you need to think about clutch with masswheel and glow plug relay with glow plugs and main and EGR thermostats
pipes to and from intercooler usually are greasy and may loose some pressure
the HFM sensor is also will not be accurate at such mileage if wasn't replaced

[GodsChariot]

Originally Posted by POBEP

The BMW (diesel) oil level check procedure is:
- engine at operating temp (88C)
- run at idle for ~1 min
- switch off
- wait 5 mins
- then check oil level.

N47 - oil (change) capacity is just a tiny bit over 5.0L

M57 capacity is ~8L.
However, I was never-ever able to put more that 7.75L in my US-spec E90 335d and E70 35d.

US variant is M57Y which is slightly de-rated EU spec M57D30TÜ2 TOP (due to SCR addition)

Others report that they are able to put 8.5L.
It is possible that (oil pan) design varied between revisions which results in 0.75L variance in oil capacity.

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

No, I have the same engine as you. My partner had an N47 118d, which my dad now runs.

I think N2 = TU2, which is German for the 2nd technical update. Means you have an alloy block on the 325d essentially. I believe the 330d with TU2 got piezo injectors - not sure if the 325 did too.

I haven't done a clutch on the driveway in this car. Did the 118d chains in a workshop with an engine crane (no lift). Reckon it shouldn't be too bad to do the clutch on a driveway so long as you can get the front end in the air a decent amount, safely.

I thought 8L was spec for the M57? Could be wrong. Either way I wouldn't be concerned about potentially an extra 0.5-1L of oil in there. You definitely on a level surface? I think the proper procedure for checking oil level is run the engine to operating temp, switch it off, wait 5 mins, then check oil level. Again, could be wrong.

Thanks for the info, I was a little concerned my dip stick was a bit short (ooh err!) and I was over filling it, also got to take into account what the new filter soaks up too.

Originally Posted by ptpending

unless the M57 was remapped, you should'not bother about chain at this mileage.
you need to think about clutch with masswheel and glow plug relay with glow plugs and main and EGR thermostats
pipes to and from intercooler usually are greasy and may loose some pressure
the HFM sensor is also will not be accurate at such mileage if wasn't replaced

Sounds reassuring about the chain as the car hasn't been remapped and the 325d is basically a detuned 330d so hopefully the chain isn't under so much stress.
Thermostats have been done not long ago and I learnt today that the clutch and DMF may have been done at 40k which is low but still 170k miles ago!

[Tambohamilton]

I don't think map or no would affect the chains either way. They're much more sensitive to correct oil grade and servicing done on schedule.

[ptpending]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

I don't think map or no would affect the chains either way. They're much more sensitive to correct oil grade and servicing done on schedule.

you insist that power output increase (mapping) is not putting this additional power to other parts of the engine via chain too ?

[Tambohamilton]

Yes. It's not like mapping the engine makes the cams more difficult to turn. They're not part of the drivetrain, after all...

[ptpending]

The reports from indy mechanics show the different outcome
A lot of remapped e70 and e71 m57 cars got their chain snapped prematurely.

[Tambohamilton]

Lower or upper chain?

[Silver Streek]

Maybe that's because mapped cars tend to be driven harder than non mapped cars.

[ptpending]

the M57N2 has thinner chain than legendary M57 and M57N, similar to N47
both of them were introduced in 2006 year.
And since E70 and E71 have more 500kg weight than 3-er or 5-er, that leads to such result on remapped larger SUVs

[GodsChariot]

Originally Posted by ptpending

the M57N2 has thinner chain than legendary M57 and M57N, similar to N47
both of them were introduced in 2006 year.
And since E70 and E71 have more 500kg weight than 3-er or 5-er, that leads to such result on remapped larger SUVs

I dont like the sound of that! Hopefully it hangs on for a few thousand miles yet.

Away from that I struggled like hell today trying to get the eccentric bolts off the rear lower arm to replace the springs, I have soaked them in penetrating oil, heated them up, used the 1/2 inpact gun, beat on them - but they were so solid, in the end I cut down each side of the nut and chiseled them off, add to that the exhaust side bolt hit the exhaust when 3/4 out so I had to lower the exhaust, what a PITA!!!

Looks like I will have to do the upper bolts too as they look fused together, they have to be loosened though as I want the alignment set up once done..

[ptpending]

Originally Posted by GodsChariot

I dont like the sound of that! Hopefully it hangs on for a few thousand miles yet.

Away from that I struggled like hell today trying to get the eccentric bolts off the rear lower arm to replace the springs, I have soaked them in penetrating oil, heated them up, used the 1/2 inpact gun, beat on them - but they were so solid, in the end I cut down each side of the nut and chiseled them off, add to that the exhaust side bolt hit the exhaust when 3/4 out so I had to lower the exhaust, what a PITA!!!

Looks like I will have to do the upper bolts too as they look fused together, they have to be loosened though as I want the alignment set up once done..

this is well known issue with eccentric bolts
people simply order the repair kit for them, cut old one with grinder, put new and do the alignment
i've did the same on my 130 recently

[GodsChariot]

Originally Posted by ptpending

this is well known issue with eccentric bolts
people simply order the repair kit for them, cut old one with grinder, put new and do the alignment
i've did the same on my 130 recently

Ahh right, I thought by design it was asking to seize up with the two slots running along the length of thread, water must make its way right into the center of the nut.

I saved one bolt but ordered another and two new nuts, when aligned I’ll spray with wax to seal..