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      10-31-2016, 12:18 PM   #1
General_Maximus
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Oil filter housing gasket leak?

2010 335i e93 vert with 92K miles on it with N54 turbo

Hey guys,

Just want confirmation/validation before I order a new gasket.

Oil is leaking onto the front of the engine near the tensioner and other pulleys. My guess is it's the oil filter housing gasket. Can it also be a pulley seal?

Is it possible for it to be anything else? Asking because the there is really not much oil in the lower face of the housing.

Thanks in advance!
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Last edited by General_Maximus; 10-31-2016 at 12:24 PM..
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      10-31-2016, 01:46 PM   #2
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If your OFHG gasket has never been replaced at 92k, then definitely do it regardless. It is highly likely that it is leaking. Looks like oil had made its way onto the pulley and belt. Engine oil make belts deteriorate quickly. You should also replace the belt before it disintegrates and gets sucked into the engine.
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      10-31-2016, 02:14 PM   #3
General_Maximus
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Thanks loco! Is it possible for oil to leak from the pulley seals?
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      10-31-2016, 08:34 PM   #4
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Looks Like OFHG to me.
not pulleys.
also....Pulleys are screwed in, No gasket for it to leak from.

recommend the following.
OFHG replace but add Permetek Copper on the New gasket.
Hand tighten and let it partially cure for 20 min or per instructions.
Then Torque per spec.
I did this, as I had to do my OFHG second time after 11 months......same leak as yours.

I also replaced my Tensioner, Belt, Upper and Lower Pulley also.
did not want my belt shredding....that may become a MAJOR engine replacement if that happens.....read up on it.
I wrote a DIY on BELT and all....
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...erpentine+belt

Best Regards,
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      10-31-2016, 09:27 PM   #5
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Thanks so much Dark Nemesis! Really appreciate your help!
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      10-31-2016, 09:40 PM   #6
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I had the same symptoms on my N55; just had my OFHG replaced and found my oil cooler gasket needed to be replaced as well. Might want to check the oil cooler gasket while you're at it.
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      11-02-2016, 04:57 PM   #7
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Thanks guys, I've ordered both gaskets and belt. Going to perform the surgery this weekend. Will let you know how it goes.
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      11-07-2016, 03:18 PM   #8
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So I went ahead and replaced the gaskets, but ran into a small complication.

While snapping the intake manifold back into place, I broke a brittle part of an hose. It's a vacuum line I think (images included).

I just have 1 pondering question - Is the fix simple? Like getting a new line of hose, disconnecting the end-points and pushing it into place? Or does it entail any codes/calibration since it controls the turbo boost etc using scan tools?
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Last edited by General_Maximus; 11-07-2016 at 03:28 PM..
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      11-07-2016, 03:25 PM   #9
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Just replace everything with 2 high temp silicone vacuum lines, running from the plastic vacuum pipe to the bottom of the vacuum canisters. Easiest way.
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      11-08-2016, 03:22 AM   #10
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Do the belt, Tensioner and both Pulleys.
You are there already, what's 3 extra screws, 3 more components as preventative maintenance.
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      11-08-2016, 12:28 PM   #11
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I haven't reassembled things yet WIP - ordered the belt and pulleys from FCP EURO. Will be doing it this week.

Have been using girlfriend's car for now Lol
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      11-10-2016, 04:59 PM   #12
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You didn't even need to remove the intake manifold to replace the OFH gasket...
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      11-10-2016, 05:22 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1QuikWS6 View Post
You didn't even need to remove the intake manifold to replace the OFH gasket...
How so? One of the bolts holding the OFH was right below the manifold. Didn't have the space to even fit a swivel in there.

Anyway I didn't remove it, I dislodged it from it's place and snapped it back into place.
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      11-11-2016, 04:53 AM   #14
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It is possible to change the OFHG without removing the inlet manifold. See here:

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      11-11-2016, 05:14 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by General_Maximus View Post
How so? One of the bolts holding the OFH was right below the manifold. Didn't have the space to even fit a swivel in there.

Anyway I didn't remove it, I dislodged it from it's place and snapped it back into place.
I have personal experience that it IS possible - I've done (2) of them so far

Need to buy a 1/4" drive external torx socket, use a 1/4" extension with wobble then a universal & another extension (I can't remember right now the extension lengths, but I have many various sizes)

There is also a small ratcheting ext torx open end wrench that I had - some have used this - but I found the socket method easier

You will have to remove the airbox at very least - I also unbolted the alternator & moved it out of the way as I was doing the serpentine belt/pulley install at the same time (but that wouldn't have been necessary) just made it even easier
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      11-11-2016, 07:12 AM   #16
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You should also check if oil is leaking from the valve cover. I had a few of the aluminum bolts break. It was a simple fix I used a pick to unscrew the broken bolts and replaced them. I also had to change the ofhg.
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      11-16-2016, 10:49 PM   #17
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All right, so the OFH, pulleys, belt have been replaced.

But one major problem happened tonight - my battery died! Now, this seems to be a super problem because

1. While my door closes, my convertible windows roll down and roll back up. But since the battery died while door was open, I'm not even able to close the door fully.

2. Looks like BMW discontinued the keyhole for trunks after 2009, so I can't access the battery to charge it

3. Coolant flush is not complete, so there is no way I can jump start the car from the hood jump points.

As of now I can think of nothing. Have been browsing forums up and down. Is is possible to use that 1 minute of jump start charge in the hood to open the trunk? Even considering calling the dealership to get it towed, but would hate to do that after all this work.

Any ideas? Please help!

Last edited by General_Maximus; 11-16-2016 at 11:02 PM..
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      11-18-2016, 08:22 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by General_Maximus View Post

3. Coolant flush is not complete, so there is no way I can jump start the car from the hood jump points.

As of now I can think of nothing. Have been browsing forums up and down. Is is possible to use that 1 minute of jump start charge in the hood to open the trunk? Even considering calling the dealership to get it towed, but would hate to do that after all this work.

Any ideas? Please help!
Try charging it from the jump terminals without starting the engine.
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      11-18-2016, 08:43 AM   #19
General_Maximus
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Yeah hopefully the battery still has some V's left so that the charger will charge it.
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      11-18-2016, 11:31 AM   #20
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Let me know how it goes. How much was the whole project so far, and how long did it take?
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      11-19-2016, 07:19 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by General_Maximus View Post
Yeah hopefully the battery still has some V's left so that the charger will charge it.
Cant you just jump start the car from the Positive and ground terminals under the Hood?

It just needs a Jump.....or at least enough juice to release the truck to hook up a battery charger.
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      11-19-2016, 12:10 PM   #22
General_Maximus
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Ctek 4.3A battery charger worked. Had let it go for 4 hours. Battery is charging but not sure if it's holding. Will try a 2A if it still doesn't hold.

Lol was really freaked out when I couldn't find the trunk keyhole. Thanks so much for your suggestions in this forum. now there is some charging functioning the doors and trunk.

Will update how the 2A goes

Last edited by General_Maximus; 11-19-2016 at 12:21 PM..
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