[Boostedphil698]

Next week my 435i goes in to have it's OFHG replaced. How much should I worry about an engine seizure afterwards? Lol.

Car has 44k miles on the clock. Thr gasket isn't leaking yet but I'm doing the mosselman T STAT so I figured I'd have it all done in one shot.

[NxTH]

Depends how much you trust the shop to know exactly how to do it and torque everything to spec. Mine was butchered once at first, then redone the same day because it leaked immediately. It leaked again after two months, then again after two months, and yet again after two months. I then finally took it to a specialist (should have in the first place but I had warranty on the first job) who told me the bolts weren't torqued to spec and they were coming off from vibration. Finally it looks like it's fixed and done right, but the specialist shop also noticed glitter in the oil filter and I had to redo my rod bearings. Had I driven for 500 miles, the rods would have spun. I doubt the original shop even primed anything. All this because I decided to also do the gasket before it leaked, so it was fine before all this.

Lesson learned, pay the extra in labor to someone who actually knows what they are doing.

[Boostedphil698]

Originally Posted by NxTH

Depends how much you trust the shop to know exactly how to do it and torque everything to spec. Mine was butchered once at first, then redone the same day because it leaked immediately. It leaked again after two months, then again after two months, and yet again after two months. I then finally took it to a specialist (should have in the first place) who told me the bolts weren't torqued to spec and they were coming off from vibration. Finally it looks like it's fixed and done right, but the specialist shop also noticed glitter in the oil filter and I had to redo my rod bearings. Had I driven for 500 miles, the bearings would have spun.

Lesson learned, pay the extra in labor to someone who actually knows what they are doing.

At the moment, the dealership will be taking care of this. They're pretty well known in my area for dropping built motors in for people. I have been there many times with my car for other things. I used to use an indy shop until they stained my new leather seat and gave me the run around, which pissed me off to no end.

[NxTH]

Originally Posted by Boostedphil698

At the moment, the dealership will be taking care of this. They're pretty well known in my area for dropping built motors in for people. I have been there many times with my car for other things. I used to use an indy shop until they stained my new leather seat and gave me the run around, which pissed me off to no end.

I learned to avoid generic shops for things like this as well. It's fine if we're talking brakes or generic items, but anything BMW specific, always choose a specialist.

[Boostedphil698]

Originally Posted by NxTH

I learned to avoid generic shops for things like this as well. It's fine if we're talking brakes or generic items, but anything BMW specific, always choose a specialist.

Sad part was they were a BMW shop. That one instance of not owning up to a mistake just pissed me off enough to never return.

[visionaut]

Highly recommend the Viton OFHG (so you never have to change it again). DuPont Viton is superior to the OE/OE-style rubber ones.

Turner might still carry it, or look for this Premium URO part: 11427537293PRM-URP

[F32Fleet]

Originally Posted by Boostedphil698

Next week my 435i goes in to have it's OFHG replaced. How much should I worry about an engine seizure afterwards? Lol.

Car has 44k miles on the clock. Thr gasket isn't leaking yet but I'm doing the mosselman T STAT so I figured I'd have it all done in one shot.

Tape a piece of paper to the dash saying "OFHG REPLACEMENT : OIL CIRCUIT MUST BE PRIMED BEFORE RESTART".

Haha

[F32Fleet]

Originally Posted by visionaut

Highly recommend the Viton OFHG (so you never have to change it again). DuPont Citon is superior to the OE/OE-style rubber ones.

Turner might still carry it, or look for this Premium URO part: 11427537293PRM-URP

Or ELRING (They sell both types)

[NxTH]

Originally Posted by F32Fleet

Tape a piece of paper to the dash saying "OFHG REPLACEMENT : OIL CIRCUIT MUST BE PRIMED BEFORE RESTART".

Haha

The funny thing about this is that they're either go

"Why did he bring it in if he's so smart, he clearly doesn't respect us. We work on these cars for a living and know this very well."

OR

"What does that mean? Oh well." - Proceeds to not prime it or just take out a fuse and go oops.

[Boostedphil698]

Originally Posted by NxTH

The funny thing about this is that they're either go

"Why did he bring it in if he's so smart, he clearly doesn't respect us. We work on these cars for a living and know this very well."

OR

"What does that mean? Oh well." - Proceeds to not prime it or just take out a fuse and go oops.

They know me. I've been getting a steady 20% off from this dealer since I bought the car. I drive my car less than 3k miles a year so I don't expect to have any engine issues. This car is always up to date on its maintenance.

[E36M3]

I don’t trust even the dealer to do work the correctly. Had an N55 oil pan gasket changed at the dealer under warranty and got my vehicle back with oil everywhere to include a pile of oil soaked rags stuffed in the drivers side fender liner forward of the strut tower. Other issues as well. Dealers are only as good as the techs they hire and it only takes one to not prime your oil system for you to have major issues. I’ve done this job myself several times (X3 35i with N55 with 175k miles and 2014 335i with 82k). Don’t use the Elring gasket between the housing and the oil thermostat housing as I’ve had it leak when the BMW one doesn’t. Have the manifold o rings on the intake ports done at the same time you do this. I recommend you DIY so you know the priming procedure was done correctly. Get ISTA and follow along with the detailed manual.

[Boostedphil698]

Originally Posted by E36M3

I don’t trust even the dealer to do work the correctly. Had an N55 oil pan gasket changed at the dealer under warranty and got my vehicle back with oil everywhere to include a pile of oil soaked rags stuffed in the drivers side fender liner forward of the strut tower. Other issues as well. Dealers are only as good as the techs they hire and it only takes one to not prime your oil system for you to have major issues. I’ve done this job myself several times (X3 35i with N55 with 175k miles and 2014 335i with 82k). Don’t use the Elring gasket between the housing and the oil thermostat housing as I’ve had it leak when the BMW one doesn’t. Have the manifold o rings on the intake ports done at the same time you do this. I recommend you DIY so you know the priming procedure was done correctly. Get ISTA and follow along with the detailed manual.

Yeah unfortunately I don't have the time nor the room to DIY things. Sorry to hear your experience. I've had a few bad experiences with the one indy shop I used to go to.

[NxTH]

LMAO. I solid jinxed myself. It literally leaked the next day AGAIN. Cue a new post..pretty sure it's the cap. I hate these cars at times so much.

[Boostedphil698]

Originally Posted by NxTH

LMAO. I solid jinxed myself. It literally leaked the next day AGAIN. Cue a new post..pretty sure it's the cap. I hate these cars at times so much.

That definitely leaked at the cap.

[E36M3]

I bet that isn’t the cap leaking but rather the Oil Thermostat housing to Oil Filter Housing. It’s part number 11428637820. Use the BMW one. Aftermarket gaskets have leaked both times I’ve tried them.

[NxTH]

Originally Posted by E36M3

I bet that isn’t the cap leaking but rather the Oil Thermostat housing to Oil Filter Housing. It’s part number 11428637820. Use the BMW one. Aftermarket gaskets have leaked both times I’ve tried them.

That has also been done in the past (like a year ago), so I'm not so sure. In the pictures, you can see drips coming straight from the cap seam. Would a leak from the thermostat housing end up only on the cap seam where it would then seap down from? I see no oil in the sandwiching area.

I made a new thread: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=2099930

[visionaut]

Originally Posted by NxTH

LMAO. I solid jinxed myself. It literally leaked the next day AGAIN. Cue a new post..pretty sure it's the cap. I hate these cars at times so much.

Oil collecting in that little well is 100% the Oil Thermostat gasket. BTDT. If the gasket was new, I bet it wasn’t torqued proper- over tightened makes it leak.

Recommend you get a Viton gasket for that one too…

[NxTH]

Originally Posted by visionaut

Oil collecting in that little well is 100% the Oil Thermostat gasket. BTDT. If the gasket was new, I bet it wasn’t torqued proper- over tightened makes it leak.

Recommend you get a Viton gasket for that one too…

As per the thread I created (and the post above) I'm having huge doubts it's the thermostat gasket. It was first messed up by an indy, then properly done by a specialist. Granted it's the OEM gasket. In any case, when wiping the oil and going for a few drives, I saw no leaks until one random drive I saw oil visibly dripping from the cap. I'm not sure it's possible for the oil to make it's way into the cap seam from the thermo gasket and not touch anything else on the way? I'm getting multiple replies saying it's 100% the thermostat gasket and others saying it's 100% the cap. There's also no oil in the sandwiching area on the housing and no oil on the pulley below. I don't mean to hijack this thread so we should continue in my thread: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=2099930