[F80Mmm]

I'm having a tough time finding a thread with detailed steps on how to remove the engine. Do any of ya'll have any good resources or insight into pulling the motor out of the car? Preferable just motor, not transmission. Thanks.

[jeddo45]

YouTube budget bimmers. They have a pretty good Engine drop DIY. If I remember correctly, they didn't drop the tranny.

[bmuum3]

Originally Posted by jeddo45

YouTube budget bimmers. They have a pretty good Engine drop DIY. If I remember correctly, they didn't drop the tranny.

I thought budget bimmers only dropped front subframe in order to remove twins and install single?

[jeddo45]

Originally Posted by bmuum3

I thought budget bimmers only dropped front subframe in order to remove twins and install single?

Ah your correct. I am getting them mixed up.

Here is the guy I was talking about:

It's a total of 4 video if you watch the whole series.

[QuebecDIY]

I am actually working on Rebuilding my engine block.
I am shooting videos about it.

You can find videos on how to remove the engine (WITHOUT REMOVING FRONT END OF YOUR CAR) on my YouTube channel "Quebec DIY". It is a work in progress.
You can subscribe if you want, and you'll get warned by e-mail when a new video is posted.

It should help you a lot if you want to do it yourself.


Engine Removal is covered through 17 videos.
01 Underhood Shield Removal (Actual Youtube name: 01 BMW 135i N54 E82 - Engine Removal - Underhodd shield Removal)
02 Gas Pressure Relief (Actual Youtube name: 01 BMW 135i N54 E82 - Engine Removal - Gas Pressure Relief)
03 Air Cabin Filter and Engine Cover Removal
04 Intake Air Duct Removal
05 Radiator Fan Removal
06 Intercooler Removal
07 Throttle Body Air Pipe Removal
08 Vacuum Accumulators Removal
09 Water Pump Removal
10 Radiator and Thermostat Removal
11 Vacuum Valve Bracket Removal
12 Pre-Catalyst Removal
13 Belt, Accessories 1st step, Intake, Starter Removal
14 Exhaust, Heat Shield, Drive Shaft Removal
15 Transmission Removal
16 Accessories 2nd Step, Wiring, Fuel Line Removal
17 Engine Removal Final


Engine overhaul will follow.
Here is the link to 3 play lists for engine removal.

BMW 135i (N54) Engine Removal DIY 1/3

BMW 135i (N54) Engine Removal DIY 2/3

BMW 135i (N54) Engine Removal DIY 3/3

[335iN54enthusiast]

I have a detailed step by step 2 part video on removing the engine from the top without taking the whole front clip apart. Right out of bmw service manual. For more info Check out my you tube channel for n54 vids!

Watch "335i N54 Enthusiast" on YouTube
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCUH...np96CSleQFSvXw

[malgyver]

I just did this job. I wanted to add a few details that may be helpful. I also used the vids linked above, mainly for the front clip info. Otherwise, I just watched what came out, and experience helped me put it all back.

I removed the front clip, which made the job much easier. Removing the whole front clip was actually a pretty easy job, and I'm glad I did it that way. FWIW, it took me about 30 minutes to remove the front clip, and it made the rest of the job so much more accessible.

I was able to leave the entire AC system intact. Once the front end comes off, you have the AC Condenser just sitting there. It can be swung this way and that way because of the flexible hoses. I wrapped the AC Condenser in cardboard to protect it, and tied it out of the way toward the passenger side wheel well.

So, with the AC condenser out of the way, and with the turbo outlets removed, I simply unbolted the AC Compressor (And P/S Pump) as I pulled the motor up and out. In the end, the AC compressor (and P/S pump) and condenser remained in place when the motor was out. It was a requirement, however, that the outlet pipe was removed.

Don't screw with the pilot bearing unless you have a puller and are real confident in your mechaniking skills.

[Ls3]

I also removed the front clip:

• Radiator Fan
• Charge Pipe
• Upper Rad Hose
• Lower Rad Hose
• Forward Turbo Inlet
• Serpentine Belt
• Radiator
• Condenser
• Wheel Well Liners
• Bumper Cover
• Headlights
• Headlight Washer System
• Impact Sensor
• Foglights
• Bumper Impact Beam + Radiator Support
• MAP Sensor
• TPS
• Throttle Body
• Harness Junction Box
• Intake Manifold
• DME Harnesses
• Positive Chassis "battery" Cable
• Positive Alternator Cable
• Power Steering Pump
• AC Compressor
• Vacuum Reservoirs
• Coolant Expansion Tank
• Heater Hose + Brackets
• Downpipe Bolts
• Transmission bolts
• Starter
• Driver-side ground
• O2 sensor harnesses
• Backup light harness
• Passenger-side firewall brace
• Engine mounts

[malgyver]

Additionally, I looked back and wondered if I could have installed the DPs to the motor, and dropped it in. I did the DPs afterward, and that took some time. Perhaps install the DPs, leave them a bit loose, drop the motor in, and then bolt them up to the rest of the exhaust, and tighten up the V-bands at the turbo.

Also: You can pull the motor with the passenger side wiring harness on it. You just have to go into the DME box and pull a few connectors.

[malgyver]

Another note, a lot of people have trouble with the upper passenger side bell housing bolt, resorting to heroic measures to get a socket on there. What I did was jack the engine up, remove the motor mounts, and then lower the motor as low as it would go, and it was really easy to get to from underneath by the DPs.

Some were suggesting to remove all of the heat shields around the trans, and use a long extension from above/behind the trans.

PM me if you have any specific questions on any sticky spots you may get to.

[Fru5tum]

I also have a video on the N54 removal, without pulling the front end. While it would take no time at all to do, I didn't want my bumper to sit, or have to be put back on while having engine serviced.

The aforementioned videos are in depth, and I would reference them on occasion.

I don't know how much time I saved, if any, but in the future, I would take the same route to service a bottom mount, or factory twins.
If I didn't have the setup to drop the subframe, (which is a nightmare I still have sometimes), I would pull the whole motor for service, which imo is easier than dropping the subframe, and keeps all wheels relatively close to the ground...