[cooldude346]

Hello everybody, looking to get some advice as to what to repair in order to fix this problem:

The Car:
2007 335i E90. It has the cold weather package and the sports package. Build date 10/2006.
Just under 120k miles but its maintenance and upkeep has been tight.
Only mods: DCIs and Borla catback exhaust
Used to have it JB4'd but took it off a couple months ago because of this problem.
The vacuum lines coming from the charge pipe are not connected, I have two "caps" where they should be connecting to give the effect of a blowoff valve. (did this a long time ago I should probably just upgrade my charge pipe to an aluminum one with BOV now)

The Problem:
I've been living with this problem for like a year now.
Past about 3500 rpm I get the dreaded half engine power malfunction and then the car makes no boost.
It resets every single time when I restart the car.
Sometimes the car runs fine past 3500rpm but its only a matter of time before it comes up if I am pushing the car.
When I am just cruising and don't really push it to get to speed I can go 300 miles and the light won't come up.
The car displays no codes when I connect it to the OBD scanner. I think this is primarily because it resets upon restart every single time.

What I have done:
For the longest time I suspected my charge pipe was cracked or not connected properly.
I replaced my alternator a few weeks ago and during that I thoroughly checked my charge pipe. I disconnected and reconnected it also. Surprisingly, it wasn't cracked anywhere and I made sure the connection is secure.

Secondly, the car had an increase in rattle noise upon startup and idling sometimes. So about a month ago I tightened the actuator rod for the rear turbo. It was hard getting to it but I got it done nonetheless. This did indeed reduce the rattle temporarily but I was still getting the half engine power light often (not every single time however). Fast forward a couple weeks later and the rattle is back to normal and the half engine power light pops up literally every single time I step on it. Makes me think I can buy a new "Wastegate Actuator - Rear" cheaply and this might solve the problem?

Help Plz
What do you guys think it can be thats causing my problem? Charge pipe or wastegate actuator? Or both?

I really hope I don't have to buy new turbos. About 120k on the stock turbos. I don't see any white smoke and it does build boost for a little bit sometimes before throwing the code so hopefully its not that.

Really want to solve this issue asap so I can put my JB4 back on and go back to making large amounts of boost

[RocketSurgeon]

You need to read the codes to know what's going on. If you get the half engine light THERE IS a stored code, you just need a BMW scanner. Your JB4 can pull codes, or the MHD app can read codes for free, you just need the correct K+DCAN cable and an OTG adapter. Without codes, we could only speculate what the problem is. MHD is excellent for reading codes, and it can read shadow codes. Their code definitions are pretty solid too.

[robthewrench]

How open are you to paying someone for a professional diagnostic? You could use a dealer or an indy. I think it might be well worth the money.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by cooldude346

Hello everybody, looking to get some advice as to what to repair in order to fix this problem:

The Car:
2007 335i E90. It has the cold weather package and the sports package. Build date 10/2006.
Just under 120k miles but its maintenance and upkeep has been tight.
Only mods: DCIs and Borla catback exhaust
Used to have it JB4'd but took it off a couple months ago because of this problem.
The vacuum lines coming from the charge pipe are not connected, I have two "caps" where they should be connecting to give the effect of a blowoff valve. (did this a long time ago I should probably just upgrade my charge pipe to an aluminum one with BOV now)

The Problem:
I've been living with this problem for like a year now.
Past about 3500 rpm I get the dreaded half engine power malfunction and then the car makes no boost.
It resets every single time when I restart the car.
Sometimes the car runs fine past 3500rpm but its only a matter of time before it comes up if I am pushing the car.
When I am just cruising and don't really push it to get to speed I can go 300 miles and the light won't come up.
The car displays no codes when I connect it to the OBD scanner. I think this is primarily because it resets upon restart every single time.

What I have done:
For the longest time I suspected my charge pipe was cracked or not connected properly.
I replaced my alternator a few weeks ago and during that I thoroughly checked my charge pipe. I disconnected and reconnected it also. Surprisingly, it wasn't cracked anywhere and I made sure the connection is secure.

Secondly, the car had an increase in rattle noise upon startup and idling sometimes. So about a month ago I tightened the actuator rod for the rear turbo. It was hard getting to it but I got it done nonetheless. This did indeed reduce the rattle temporarily but I was still getting the half engine power light often (not every single time however). Fast forward a couple weeks later and the rattle is back to normal and the half engine power light pops up literally every single time I step on it. Makes me think I can buy a new "Wastegate Actuator - Rear" cheaply and this might solve the problem?

Help Plz
What do you guys think it can be thats causing my problem? Charge pipe or wastegate actuator? Or both?

I really hope I don't have to buy new turbos. About 120k on the stock turbos. I don't see any white smoke and it does build boost for a little bit sometimes before throwing the code so hopefully its not that.

Really want to solve this issue asap so I can put my JB4 back on and go back to making large amounts of boost

I'd buy a Schwaben or Foxwell scan tool, update it and then read the codes.

[TomD335xicoupe]

I am by no means good at this but I did not see a walnut blast in your post?

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

I'd buy a Schwaben or Foxwell scan tool, update it and then read the codes.

Why do you guys insist on telling people that they have to buy a 500 dollar + tool when ISTA is FREE and it can do ALOT more...

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Pladi

Why do you guys insist on telling people that they have to buy a 500 dollar + tool when ISTA is FREE and it can do ALOT more...

$500.00????

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...SABEgKmf_D_BwE

Gosh, I didn't know it cost $500.00.....

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

$500.00????

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...SABEgKmf_D_BwE

Gosh, I didn't know it cost $500.00.....

still you get the point..

[robthewrench]

I see in another thread you posted that you are also having serious problems with I-drive and audio. Between the two of these, it seems like some serious hack of this car has occurred. Is the car truly back to stock at this point, or are there things that have been modded?

[rsyed07]

The last time I got the half engine light was because the car was not getting any boost. The culprit was a blown stock charge pipe. Replaced it with a OEM one which failed again and then finally replaced it with a VRSF one and haven't had any issues. If its a boost leak chances are your leaking somewhere. I would double check all connections from intercooler onward and look for vacuum leaks too.

[cooldude346]

Originally Posted by RocketSurgeon

You need to read the codes to know what's going on. If you get the half engine light THERE IS a stored code, you just need a BMW scanner. Your JB4 can pull codes, or the MHD app can read codes for free, you just need the correct K+DCAN cable and an OTG adapter. Without codes, we could only speculate what the problem is. MHD is excellent for reading codes, and it can read shadow codes. Their code definitions are pretty solid too.

So I ran the codes and its throwing 30FF. Boost problem right?

[cooldude346]

Originally Posted by TomD335xicoupe

I am by no means good at this but I did not see a walnut blast in your post?

I have not gotten it walnut blasted in all the time ive owned it (50k miles until now and it has about 120k). Should I get this done?

[cooldude346]

Originally Posted by robthewrench

I see in another thread you posted that you are also having serious problems with I-drive and audio. Between the two of these, it seems like some serious hack of this car has occurred. Is the car truly back to stock at this point, or are there things that have been modded?

Yeah that iDrive and Radio problem had been driving me crazy last couple of weeks. Thankfully that is back to normal for the most part now.

Yeah car is completely stock barring the DCI's and Borla exhaust. Used to have the JB4 on but its been off for a long time now.
Thats why its confusing me, boost pressure symptoms coming up even though Im not even trying to run additional boost atm.

[cooldude346]

Originally Posted by rsyed07

The last time I got the half engine light was because the car was not getting any boost. The culprit was a blown stock charge pipe. Replaced it with a OEM one which failed again and then finally replaced it with a VRSF one and haven't had any issues. If its a boost leak chances are your leaking somewhere. I would double check all connections from intercooler onward and look for vacuum leaks too.

I checked the vacuum line connections and everything checks out. I also checked the chargepipe and it wasn't cracked anywhere visibly.

Question for you: How did you know your charge pipe was "blown"? Was it visibly cracked or disconnected anywhere? Or just by the symptoms you figured it that it was the Charge pipe?
Also one more question: were you getting 0 boost whatsoever? Or same as me - boosting for little bit and as soon as you hit like 3k rpm the light comes on??

Im really starting to suspect the charge pipe and might just order the VRSF one soon. Just want to make sure that is my problem before blowing the $500 (including BOV).

[halik008]

$5 says your wastegates are so worn that they catch part way through it's normal movement thus triggering 30FF

[jeddo45]

Originally Posted by cooldude346

I checked the vacuum line connections and everything checks out. I also checked the chargepipe and it wasn't cracked anywhere visibly.

Question for you: How did you know your charge pipe was "blown"? Was it visibly cracked or disconnected anywhere? Or just by the symptoms you figured it that it was the Charge pipe?
Also one more question: were you getting 0 boost whatsoever? Or same as me - boosting for little bit and as soon as you hit like 3k rpm the light comes on??

Im really starting to suspect the charge pipe and might just order the VRSF one soon. Just want to make sure that is my problem before blowing the $500 (including BOV).

You're gonna have to go through process of elimination for this. Boost leak problems could be a number of things:

1. Check intercooler connections.
2. Check charge pipe and diverter valves. A stuck diverter valve will let all boost out.
3. Check vacuum lines. Not just visible check. Smoke test will show any cracked lines.
4. Waste Gates. If stuck open they will let all boost out.

I'd start with a smoke test because it could very well be a vacuum line.

Honestly, I wouldn't be surprised if it's the actual turbos. You got 120k out of them which is impressive, a whole lot more than most of us got ( mine started giving out at 82k).

[agustincuenca]

Originally Posted by halik008

$5 says your wastegates are so warn that they catch part way through it's normal movement thus triggering 30FF

+1

[IllSic_Design]

Originally Posted by agustincuenca

+1

+2. That's what happened to mine at 126k.

[cooldude346]

Originally Posted by halik008

$5 says your wastegates are so warn that they catch part way through it's normal movement thus triggering 30FF

So if this is the case does this mean I need to get new turbos?

Thinking about taking it to the dealership and paying the $150 diagnostic fee so that atleast I know for sure what the problem is before looking at Vargas or RB turbos or anything.

[cooldude346]

Originally Posted by jeddo45

You're gonna have to go through process of elimination for this. Boost leak problems could be a number of things:

1. Check intercooler connections.
2. Check charge pipe and diverter valves. A stuck diverter valve will let all boost out.
3. Check vacuum lines. Not just visible check. Smoke test will show any cracked lines.
4. Waste Gates. If stuck open they will let all boost out.

I'd start with a smoke test because it could very well be a vacuum line.

Honestly, I wouldn't be surprised if it's the actual turbos. You got 120k out of them which is impressive, a whole lot more than most of us got ( mine started giving out at 82k).

Thanks for the advice! I'll try to check for 1-3 and hope its one of those issues. About to order a smoke/fog machine from Amazon rn. Hoping its not the turbos themselves but I guess they are bound to go at some point.

[halik008]

Originally Posted by cooldude346

So if this is the case does this mean I need to get new turbos?

Thinking about taking it to the dealership and paying the $150 diagnostic fee so that atleast I know for sure what the problem is before looking at Vargas or RB turbos or anything.

or rebuild the ones u got. you can jerry rig things short term if they are in deed getting hung up

[MysticRob]

Originally Posted by cooldude346

So if this is the case does this mean I need to get new turbos?

Thinking about taking it to the dealership and paying the $150 diagnostic fee so that atleast I know for sure what the problem is before looking at Vargas or RB turbos or anything.

How about just buying a simple vacuum pump tool and testing the wastegates yourself. Read up and learn about how the vehicle works and you'll save a lot of money.