[ram1boyz]

What is the thickest oil you guys would run in a fully built n54?? I was thinking to run 10w60 but I've heard that's bad for the turbo seals. I'm pushing about 750-800 whp. Forged internals (lower and upper). Let me know what you guys think

[AWD Addict]

Id run 5w30. Gets out of the pan faster on cold start, particularly in winter.

If you're up a perpetually warm climate, 10w is fine.

[ram1boyz]

Originally Posted by AWD Addict

Id run 5w30. Gets out of the pan faster on cold start, particularly in winter.

If you're up a perpetually warm climate, 10w is fine.

I normally run 5w40. I live in California so definitely does not get as cold as other places. Just looking to go for something thicker than that. Wondering if anyone knows what the "limitations" are

[AWD Addict]

Why do you want "thicker" oil than 5w30? That's what BMW recommends. I know your engine is built, but the tolerances shouldn't be so far off that you need such high viscosity at 50 or 60 weight oil to compensate. Was there work done to the block, or just replaced pistons? is your idle noisy (like, are you hearing piston slap?)

Do you think it protects better or something? both 5w and 10w will perform the same at operating temp. 50 is pretty viscous. So this is a curious thread.

I think you may want to learn more about how engine oil works before screwing with it Sounds like you should be running 10w30 or 10w40, otherwise. Much more than that and I feel like you're not moving oil through the system quickly enough (particularly the turbo.)

[roadkillrob]

I would be worried about the turbo bearing lubrication if you went much thicker.

[S4usage]

When running a built motor, I assume you also run ACL or King main and rod bearings and run 600hp+ Then yes you want to run a thicker oil.
The engine I am building as we speak uses ACL rod bearings (with ZRP rods. Untouched crank) and I measured the clearance from 0.07 to 0.079mm which is alot more than the ~0.04mm of a stock engine. So not only can you get a way with a thicker oil, it will be beneficial. I will probably run 20w50 in this engine.

Why i'm not running a w60 oil is because of the ball bearing turbo i am running.
If you are running a journal bearing turbo, then I wouldn't be worried with thicker oil (w60) at all.

[iqraceworks]

Originally Posted by ram1boyz

What is the thickest oil you guys would run in a fully built n54?? I was thinking to run 10w60 but I've heard that's bad for the turbo seals. I'm pushing about 750-800 whp. Forged internals (lower and upper). Let me know what you guys think

It's going to depend on what bearings clearances the engine builder used.

Most people run 5-40w oil in the stock motors.....

[n0ah305]

Originally Posted by iqraceworks

It's going to depend on what bearings clearances the engine builder used.

Most people run 5-40w oil in the stock motors.....

Yeah I was about to say I have stock motor & turbos and I've been using 5W40 haha 138,000k they say thicker oil is better for high mileage cars and less likely to leak oil

[whyzee125]

I'd ask your engine builder, he would know better than anyone on here and it will vary depending on the clearances of your bearings and crank, etc. If it was built with ~stock tolerances, I'd just go with a high quality 5w-40 like Motul 8100 or Red Line.

[ram1boyz]

Originally Posted by AWD Addict

Why do you want "thicker" oil than 5w30? That's what BMW recommends. I know your engine is built, but the tolerances shouldn't be so far off that you need such high viscosity at 50 or 60 weight oil to compensate. Was there work done to the block, or just replaced pistons? is your idle noisy (like, are you hearing piston slap?)

Do you think it protects better or something? both 5w and 10w will perform the same at operating temp. 50 is pretty viscous. So this is a curious thread.

I think you may want to learn more about how engine oil works before screwing with it Sounds like you should be running 10w30 or 10w40, otherwise. Much more than that and I feel like you're not moving oil through the system quickly enough (particularly the turbo.)

Originally Posted by AWD Addict

Why do you want "thicker" oil than 5w30? That's what BMW recommends. I know your engine is built, but the tolerances shouldn't be so far off that you need such high viscosity at 50 or 60 weight oil to compensate. Was there work done to the block, or just replaced pistons? is your idle noisy (like, are you hearing piston slap?)

Do you think it protects better or something? both 5w and 10w will perform the same at operating temp. 50 is pretty viscous. So this is a curious thread.

I think you may want to learn more about how engine oil works before screwing with it Sounds like you should be running 10w30 or 10w40, otherwise. Much more than that and I feel like you're not moving oil through the system quickly enough (particularly the turbo.)

Yeah so at cold starts I was hearing a concerning noise at the beginning. To me it sounded like oil wasn't getting to the top of the engine which is why I was considering changing the viscosity of my oil. After further investigation turns out the noise was coming from my fuel pump. The car is running a double shot fuel pump and basically what is happening is that one pump is pushing fuel to the engine and one isn't, because it doesn't need it. When the engine asks for more power, that's when more fuel will flow through and the other pump will kick in. So the noise is coming from that part of the pump that isn't pushing any fuel at cold starts.

Anyways, as far as asking the engine builder, I have no idea who it is. Bought the car fully modified so this is like a puzzle to me trying to figure out what the hell is going on haha. Especially when it has been extensively modified to this extent.

[whyzee125]

Originally Posted by ram1boyz

Yeah so at cold starts I was hearing a concerning noise at the beginning. To me it sounded like oil wasn't getting to the top of the engine which is why I was considering changing the viscosity of my oil. After further investigation turns out the noise was coming from my fuel pump. The car is running a double shot fuel pump and basically what is happening is that one pump is pushing fuel to the engine and one isn't, because it doesn't need it. When the engine asks for more power, that's when more fuel will flow through and the other pump will kick in. So the noise is coming from that part of the pump that isn't pushing any fuel at cold starts.

Anyways, as far as asking the engine builder, I have no idea who it is. Bought the car fully modified so this is like a puzzle to me trying to figure out what the hell is going on haha. Especially when it has been extensively modified to this extent.

Gotcha! Modded HPFPs are super noisy. I'd use whatever oil the PO was using if you know it. Glad it wasn't the engine making noise!

[AWD Addict]

Originally Posted by ram1boyz

Yeah so at cold starts I was hearing a concerning noise at the beginning. To me it sounded like oil wasn't getting to the top of the engine which is why I was considering changing the viscosity of my oil. After further investigation turns out the noise was coming from my fuel pump. The car is running a double shot fuel pump and basically what is happening is that one pump is pushing fuel to the engine and one isn't, because it doesn't need it. When the engine asks for more power, that's when more fuel will flow through and the other pump will kick in. So the noise is coming from that part of the pump that isn't pushing any fuel at cold starts.

Anyways, as far as asking the engine builder, I have no idea who it is. Bought the car fully modified so this is like a puzzle to me trying to figure out what the hell is going on haha. Especially when it has been extensively modified to this extent.

Well, in some ways that's good news. I think the fact you don't have any specifics on the build complicates this a bit. Obviously, making unfounded or rash changes in something important like lubrication, particularly with oil cooled turbo(s), is just as big a risk of creating a problem as doing nothing.

So if I were you, I'd stick with 5w or 10w 40 until you've got enough additional information on the engine to make a change.

No chance the seller can tell you who did the work?

dR

[neilvan]

I run Motul 8100 5W40 in both my N54 cars (also my N52s as well). We use this for all of our cars except my built motor turbo race car(non-bmw) which I run a 5w50

Bmw's are known to run hot so I go with the slightly higher weight for a piece of mind against thinning; I use it in both the summer and winter cars. I wouldn't go to to high(60) unless you really need it (track car in the desert kinda useage).

[iqraceworks]

Rotella T6 5w-40 diesel oil seems to be very popular as far as oil people are running in their N54's. I've been using it in mine since I've had the car and the Blackstone Labs reports always come back looking great. Just another option..

[C4maro]

In summer i run 5 quarts castrol gtx high mileage 10w30, 1 quart supertech full synthetic 5w40, and 1 qt rotella 15w40.

Seems to be the best combo for this engine.

[Tambohamilton]

Originally Posted by ram1boyz

Yeah so at cold starts I was hearing a concerning noise at the beginning. To me it sounded like oil wasn't getting to the top of the engine which is why I was considering changing the viscosity of my oil. After further investigation turns out the noise was coming from my fuel pump. The car is running a double shot fuel pump and basically what is happening is that one pump is pushing fuel to the engine and one isn't, because it doesn't need it. When the engine asks for more power, that's when more fuel will flow through and the other pump will kick in. So the noise is coming from that part of the pump that isn't pushing any fuel at cold starts.

Anyways, as far as asking the engine builder, I have no idea who it is. Bought the car fully modified so this is like a puzzle to me trying to figure out what the hell is going on haha. Especially when it has been extensively modified to this extent.

If start up is noisy, you should consider a lower viscosity oil, not higher!

Though glad it was the fuel pump and you don't need to mess around.

[iqraceworks]

Originally Posted by C4maro

In summer i run 5 quarts castrol gtx high mileage 10w30, 1 quart supertech full synthetic 5w40, and 1 qt rotella 15w40.

Seems to be the best combo for this engine.

You're joking....right?

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by C4maro

In summer i run 5 quarts castrol gtx high mileage 10w30, 1 quart supertech full synthetic 5w40, and 1 qt rotella 15w40.

Seems to be the best combo for this engine.

Man I don't understand why people complicate oil like this.

[Tambohamilton]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

Man I don't understand why people complicate oil like this.

I don't think they understand either

[C4maro]

Originally Posted by iqraceworks

You're joking....right?

Definitely about the second part ya, but that is whats its in my engine rn.

The 10w30 was on sale and i change my oil every 2000kms because i dont drive often and my oil has as slight fuel smell, which i hear is common on these engines higher mileage. Dont have any injector symptoms though. I do do a lot of 10 minute drives in the car so it doesnt get up to full temp.

[iqraceworks]

When is the last time you have pulled all of your spark plugs out to see if any are wet? If your oil smells like fuel...... something isn't right. Also, I would change the oil ASAP.....fuel in oil is what eats up bearings.

[C4maro]

Originally Posted by iqraceworks

When is the last time you have pulled all of your spark plugs out to see if any are wet? If your oil smells like fuel...... something isn't right. Also, I would change the oil ASAP.....fuel in oil is what eats up bearings.

will you get a smooth start though if your injectors are leaking? or can it still start fine and be leaking into the oil?