[Aqid]

Hi guys,

So recently the battery of my car died and the dealer had already flagged it during maintenance so I decided to replace it. After I replaced it everything was fine and the car worked. I figured I check the codes real quick and I got a 2e98 missing alternator. The car itself was working like it should so I decided to test faith and see how long I could keep driving. The answer is about 4 days, after that the same issues started showing up again (electrical systems start dying one by one and eventually the car dies) so I think it's safe to say the alternator isn't charging the battery.

Weird thing is, I've read a lot of people's post about it and the ones with faulty alternators said that their car would show a red battery in their dash indicating that it wasn't being charged. I haven't had that, the car worked just fine and the 2e98 code did not throw a check engine light or anything at all. If I would have connected my tablet I wouldve never known about the code.

Does this still indicate a broken alternator? Or does this point to something else? I was thinking maybe something along the lines of a fuse? I haven't gotten a multi meter yet (will get one tonight) but again I think it's pretty safe to say it's not charging the battery. Any insights tips or tricks to figure out what it is?

[Rob09msport]

Check your voltage while running

[Rob09msport]

Could be your lovely intelligent battery sensor but as voltage drops these cars slowly shut off non essential functions to preserve safe operation so sounds like your charging system is compromised . Did you register and or code if different spec your battery when you changed it

[Aqid]

Originally Posted by Rob09msport

Could be your lovely intelligent battery sensor but as voltage drops these cars slowly shut off non essential functions to preserve safe operation so sounds like your charging system is compromised . Did you register and or code if different spec your battery when you changed it

I used a same spec battery (actually higher CCA but same Ah which I assume does not require re-coding) so I did not re-code, but I did register the new battery with MHD.

[AY335]

I had similar symptoms and had to replace my ibs cable. Haven't done the alternator yet

[Aqid]

Originally Posted by AY335

I had similar symptoms and had to replace my ibs cable. Haven't done the alternator yet

Would it charge the battery with the ibs disconnected?

Ok so I got a multi meter but its a little hard to get values since the battery was dead. I measured before I connected my booster pack, it was reading 11.4 on the battery terminals.

Once I started the car with my booster pack, the electrical systems pretty much died right away due to it not having enough juice. The battery read somewhere between 5 and 10.3 max, which makes it seems to me that it's not charging at all? It kept "dancing" though. I held my finger on the pulley of the alternator, that one was spinning (I found someone online that had slipping alternator pulley so I figured I'd try that).

Should I just replace the alternator at this point? Or could it also be the voltage regulator?

[Boland01]

I would take it to Autozone or similar parts store and have them test your alternator and battery first. That way you'll have a better idea on what to replace.

Running the alternator should be putting out around 13.6- 14.6 volts. Likewise at rest the battery really should be at least 12.4 volts.

[Kaz26]

What was the conclusion? Was it the alternator? IBS? or something else?