[MLars]

Hi guys,

Recently installed a VRSF intercooler and upgraded to MHD Stage 1+. Now that my car is demanding more boost, it's starting to show some problems. I've re tightened my intercooler connections and have replaced the driver side vacuum lines and the lines on both sides of vacuum canisters (haven't done wastegate ones yet) and still get the 30FF fault.

While changing vacuum lines I also tried to adjust the rear wastegate rod because my car has awful wg rattle. I bought a small ignition wrench set and the 10mm can't seem to grab the wg rod nut. I have the vac canister mount and coolant tank removed so I can clearly see my wrench is on the nut, but it almost seems too big. Anyone else run into this issue?

When running just stage 1 it wouldn't throw the code, but based on my logs was still slightly below the boost target:
https://datazap.me/u/mlars/9-28-2019...=0&data=3-4-20
https://datazap.me/u/mlars/9-28-2019...=1&data=3-4-20

Here's after initially installing the FMIC, but before going back and tightening clamps and replacing vac lines:
https://datazap.me/u/mlars/10-13-201...=1&data=3-4-20
https://datazap.me/u/mlars/10-13-201...=1&data=3-4-20

And after tightening clamps and doing the vacuum lines I mentioned above (no change in boost, car seems to maintain 14psi):
https://datazap.me/u/mlars/10-21-201...=0&data=3-4-20


Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance.

Matt

[relative4]

Your wastegates are sticking, time to start saving up for turbos. Sorry dude.

[MLars]

Originally Posted by relative4

Your wastegates are sticking, time to start saving up for turbos. Sorry dude.

Wonderful , guess I'll turn it back down to stage 1 and start saving up for the inevitable. Thanks for the reply

[MLars]

Thinking about this some more, would my boost solenoids prevent the wastegate from opening/closing/getting stuck? I'm not sure if those have ever been replaced. Also still unsure why I can't loosen the wastegate nut with my 10mm

[nissubaru]

Originally Posted by MLars

Thinking about this some more, would my boost solenoids prevent the wastegate from opening/closing/getting stuck? I'm not sure if those have ever been replaced. Also still unsure why I can't loosen the wastegate nut with my 10mm

Maybe you're doing it backwards

[MLars]

Originally Posted by nissubaru

Maybe you're doing it backwards

Facing front to back, turning wrench clockwise towards engine

[relative4]

Originally Posted by MLars

Thinking about this some more, would my boost solenoids prevent the wastegate from opening/closing/getting stuck? I'm not sure if those have ever been replaced. Also still unsure why I can't loosen the wastegate nut with my 10mm

Bad solenoids will cause wild oscillations in boost. If boost is present and steady but low, you're looking at either a boost leak or a bad turbo.

[chumley]

Originally Posted by MLars

Facing front to back, turning wrench clockwise towards engine

This. 10mm lossens the nut on the shaft and a combination of 4 and 4.5 I think? will tighten the shaft soooo towards the engine to loosen the big nut and away to take some slack out of the wg. Then just firm up the big nut. Mark the rod with a sharpie and try 2 full turns to start.

Now I'd love some suggestions on the front - I can't even see much of it. Saw that a few people have done it with a split washer and magnet but I imagine you'd have to be underneath the car or have help guiding it.

[MLars]

Originally Posted by chumley

This. 10mm lossens the nut on the shaft and a combination of 4 and 4.5 I think? will tighten the shaft soooo towards the engine to loosen the big nut and away to take some slack out of the wg. Then just firm up the big nut. Mark the rod with a sharpie and try 2 full turns to start.

Now I'd love some suggestions on the front - I can't even see much of it. Saw that a few people have done it with a split washer and magnet but I imagine you'd have to be underneath the car or have help guiding it.

Yup, so I am turning it the right way. But the problem I'm having is my 10mm wrench just strips off the nut before I can actually get a turn in, seems about .5mm too big. Also for the front one the only fix I've read is the washer spacing method

[relative4]

Vise grips FTW

Just drop the subframe and the downpipes, you can get at the wastegates no problem.
Oh, and pull the water pump to get the front.

[MLars]

Originally Posted by relative4

Vise grips FTW

Just drop the subframe and the downpipes, you can get at the wastegates no problem.
Oh, and pull the water pump to get the front.

Thanks, I'll give the vice grips a try. Think I'll wait to replace the turbos before I drop the subframe and downpipes 😂

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by MLars

Thanks, I'll give the vice grips a try. Think I'll wait to replace the turbos before I drop the subframe and downpipes 😂

You won't be able to get to the front wastegate bolt/nut.

If the rear is being a b@tch, try soaking it in Kroil Oil overnight. If no go, use a small torch.

You have to do the horseshoe shaped no. 8 washer trick to the actuator bolts for the front turbo.

For the rear, once you crack it loose, Mark it with whiteout & turn it 2.5 times.

[MLars]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

You won't be able to get to the front wastegate bolt/nut.

If the rear is being a b@tch, try soaking it in Kroil Oil overnight. If no go, use a small torch.

You have to do the horseshoe shaped no. 8 washer trick to the actuator bolts for the front turbo.

For the rear, once you crack it loose, Mark it with whiteout & turn it 2.5 times.

Might have to do that, seems pretty rusted on there. Going to adjust rear first and see if that fixes rattle (since that's supposed to be the "easy" one...)

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by MLars

Might have to do that, seems pretty rusted on there. Going to adjust rear first and see if that fixes rattle (since that's supposed to be the "easy" one...)

The U shaped washer trick isn't horribly complicated. You just super glue two No. 8 SS washers together & use a dremmel to cut out a notch so they look like a horse shoes you do this twice for 2 sets.

The top bolt is easy. The bottom bolt does require some dexterity.

[MLars]

Quick update. Finished replacing vacuum lines and got a vacuum tester on Amazon. At idle, the vacuum pump is pulling a solid 25" to each boost solenoid and the hose between solenoid and wastegate is reading 18" (both front and rear). Also connected the tester directly to the wastegates with the car off, and I can hear each one closing when releasing vacuum. I can only see the rear WG rod moving, but it seems to be fully open around 7". With car off, boost solenoid inlets slowly leak down from 25" to 0 in about 30 seconds, which I've read is normal.

So from these tests it seems I have no vacuum leaks and my solenoids are working properly. Maybe if one WG was stuck I loosened it up by pumping vacuum to it on and off a couple times, we'll see when I get a log tonight.