[Hokie 335i]

I installed my V2 last night and everything with the V2 went perfectly. When attempting to put the large ecu connector back in I either couldn't get the connector to go all the way down with the slider in part way (so little room for that slider!) or if I did get it down, then the slider wouldn't go in to lock the connector. What eventually happened was I was pulling the connector back out to try again from scratch and everything was stuck (with slider halfway in) and the connector piece ended up breaking. The part that broke was the lower part of the slider guide on either side. Eventually I got the connector back down and the slider in all the way but it's not held in on the bottom now due to the slider channel being broken on the connector. Is there any way it will come loose while driving? Also, can I buy a new large ECU connector and just transfer the white and black subconnectors to the new connector? I'm hoping it's only a few bucks since it's just a plastic holder basically but I was worried because it seemed like there were other wires coming out of it in addition to the black and white subconnectors. It luckily didn't break of the entire bottom or the channel guide, just the first half or so so hopefully with it in all the way it won't come loose. Here is a pic of what broke:




Anyone know the part number for this part? Couldn't find it at www.realoem.com.

[OpenFlash]

Whoa... that's a first. Not a big deal though. Just go to your parts department and explain to them what broke. They will pull up diagrams on their screen. Point to the part that broke and they will order it for you. Probably wont cost more than a few bucks but you might have to wait several days for it to show up. It is unlikely that it is a stocked part. I'm guessing that you can still put in the connector and have it stay put. At worst, use a rubber band to hold it in place if the connection is loose.

Shiv

[Hokie 335i]

I really have NO idea how it just stopped working, it just WOULDN'T go in. When I put in V1.47 it was fine and then this time it just wouldn't go together. Then when it was stuck this time there was no getting it out without it breaking. I'm just worried that if I talk to the parts department and ask them for this part they'll know I was messing around with the ECU. Also, how many different things plug into that part other than the white and black subconnectors? If there are other wires do they come out just like the rest, with a small screwdriver? Lastly, why wasn't I able to find this part on realoem? I found the locking sliders, but not the stupid connector!

[Jeff@Eurobahn.us]

Dude that sucks!! When you go to the dealership they make ask you for your vin number. If you can help it do not give them that information. We have been told by some of our dealers that BMW is starting to have the dealers track cars that are having DME related issues by vin! Whether or not this is going to be one of the things they are tracking, do your best to play dumb and not have the vin number!

Jeff
Eurobahn

[OpenFlash]

Originally Posted by Jeff@Eurobahn.us

Dude that sucks!! When you go to the dealership they make ask you for your vin number. If you can help it do not give them that information. We have been told by some of our dealers that BMW is starting to have the dealers track cars that are having DME related issues by vin! Whether or not this is going to be one of the things they are tracking, do your best to play dumb and not have the vin number!

Jeff
Eurobahn

If you go in to the service department and show them your broken ecu connector, I can see that happening. But if you go into the parts department and order the part, like I suggested, there wont any such issue.

Shiv

[Jeff@Eurobahn.us]

yeah try it Shiv's way!

Jeff
Eurobahn

[cn555ic]

Originally Posted by shiv@vishnu

If you go in to the service department and show them your broken ecu connector, I can see that happening. But if you go into the parts department and order the part, like I suggested, there wont any such issue.

Shiv

I went to my mechanic to tell them to order the small ecu connector and was told that they did want the vin #'s to my car, but i told the mechanic i would not disclose that information....Two weeks later the part comes in and i was pretty surprised because i thought the order was cancelled because i didn't give them the info...I thought they needed the vin's to order the special part..

[Hokie 335i]

Do you happen to know the part numbers for the 2 ECU connectors? If I order by part number I figure there is less change it will be an issue. I won't need to say "i broke the ecu connector." I can't find it anywhere online. I might also have someone else order it for me so it doesn't tie to my car but I really need the number first.

My other option is to just leave the damn thing. I really don't think it's gonna come lose.

[Hokie 335i]

Originally Posted by cn555ic

I went to my mechanic to tell them to order the small ecu connector and was told that they did want the vin #'s to my car, but i told the mechanic i would not disclose that information....Two weeks later the part comes in and i was pretty surprised because i thought the order was cancelled because i didn't give them the info...I thought they needed the vin's to order the special part..

Did you replace the connector on yours? Was it hard to do?

[cn555ic]

Originally Posted by Hokie 335i

Did you replace the connector on yours? Was it hard to do?

No replacing the connector harnass is the same thing as pulling out the grey and black ecu when you do the Procede installation...Simple as using a small screw driver and taking each component appart and putting it back to the new one...Simple if you already did your install of the V2...I don't have the numbers to connector harnass, but if you look at the connectors themselves, they have the BMW part number on them...there are two sets of numbers 1 for the bmw and a second number for tyco...Use the BMW numbers because that will be what you need when you order the parts.

[cn555ic]

I would change it even if its not going to come loose, for the fact of security of warranty...Don't want something to happen where they open your ecu and see a broken piece of ecu connector harnass, thus totally nulifying your warranty...It won't cost you more than 4 dollars or less to get this piece, so just order it and drive around...I can't see it coming loose while you wait for the piece...Thats what i did and nothing happened

[Hokie 335i]

Originally Posted by cn555ic

I would change it even if its not going to come loose, for the fact of security of warranty...Don't want something to happen where they open your ecu and see a broken piece of ecu connector harnass, thus totally nulifying your warranty...It won't cost you more than 4 dollars or less to get this piece, so just order it and drive around...I can't see it coming loose while you wait for the piece...Thats what i did and nothing happened

I'll probably do that. The only issue is I've gotta take the whole thing back apart to find the stupid part number! Maybe I'll wait for 2.03 to come out when I have to put in the speed sensor wire. Not like it's going anywhere.

Shiv, the reason I didn't do the speed sensor wire was I was worried about not having it in the bypass plug, would this be a problem if I was gonna use the bypass plug?

[cn555ic]

i can get you the little ecu number but it would be the wrong number part that u need?

[Acap14]

An easy way to avoid that happening again is to pull the dme out of the sleeve about an inch, there are two tabs that hold it in, you might need an extra set of hands but pull the two taps back and slide the dme out and the connector will go rite in.

[Hokie 335i]

Pulling out the DME an inch or so would be a HUGE help because it's the damn side of the ECU box that's barely getting in the way and if was an inch up it'd be a lot easier. cn555ic, it would be awesome if you could give me the small connector part number. I'm sure it would make it way easier to find the large one. What I'm thinking I'm gonna do is send in my fiance with a picture of the part I need as well as knowing what it is so she can explain it and order it. Then they can't track it back to me.

I guess I am an idiot but I also managed to break the temperature sensor that you have to remove to get the air filter and everything out to get to the ECU box. It's strange because none of this was a problem putting in V1.47! I didn't break the sensor itself, but one of the little tabs (there are 2 of them) snapped off when I was putting it back in last time. It kinda holds in there but I figured if it was cheap I and was getting the connector as well I can probably just buy both pieces. Does anyone know how to disconnect the sensor from the wires leading into it? I'm not gonna buy the part if I can't easily swap it out. This is the piece I am talking about: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...=64&fg=45&hl=1

[cn555ic]

I tried to find the number for u but i guess i threw out the old Ecu connector...Sorry but its easy to find at the parts department...Just tell him ECU connectors and he should show u a diagram of it with all the part numbers...

[BoostedBMW]

Just a FYI, but when I went to the parts department to order a TMAP sensor the guy just kept asking for my vin to order it and I just played stupid and told him that I didn't have my car with me. I told the guy to order the part and he told me ok, and then 2 hours later he calls me asking for my vin # again. I just ordered the part from crownbmw.com and got it in a few days for less money. I would just go with them since the dealer usually looks to stick it to you if they can. Just my 2 cents.

[A418t81]

Originally Posted by Acap14

An easy way to avoid that happening again is to pull the dme out of the sleeve about an inch, there are two tabs that hold it in, you might need an extra set of hands but pull the two taps back and slide the dme out and the connector will go rite in.

Exactly how I do it.

[Hokie 335i]

Originally Posted by BoostedBMW

Just a FYI, but when I went to the parts department to order a TMAP sensor the guy just kept asking for my vin to order it and I just played stupid and told him that I didn't have my car with me. I told the guy to order the part and he told me ok, and then 2 hours later he calls me asking for my vin # again. I just ordered the part from crownbmw.com and got it in a few days for less money. I would just go with them since the dealer usually looks to stick it to you if they can. Just my 2 cents.

I just wish I knew the part number and then if I had a problem I could order it from crown or somebody else. I don't mind paying 10 bucks shipping to avoid an issue down the road.

[Hokie 335i]

So I was looking around on RealOEM and while the part isn't listed for the 335i it seems to be listed for the 330i. Is part number 2 here the correct part?
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...59&hg=12&fg=10
I wish they would show a picture but it seems like that's what it is since it's a housing and I'm guessing the 44-POLIG designator is for the 44 wires that can go into the 2 subconnectors (1-22 on one and 23-44 on the other).

Does anyone think that the part for the 330i would be any different than the 335i connector? If it's not I can have a buddy of mine that has a 330i order it as he doesn't have any mods so even if they looked for a reason for him to have it, they wouldn't find anything.

[turbocoins]

The temperature sensor is easy to break. I know that I broke mine. I think several others did, as well.

[FotiosF90M5]

I broke a small piece of the corner on the small ecu.I was kinda rushing through the removal of the jb2.It works perfectly but you can see a corner of the plasic broken.Im not sure what to do about that.I wish I could find a part #.Oh well.hope they never go into my dme.Im not sure why they would anyway.