[CYL]

HELP~~~~

Hi, tonight I found that the engine light lighted up when I started my car to drive back home after dinner.
I have no choice but to drive it back home carefully. On the way home, I noticed that the oil temperature gauge seemed to rise up faster than normal. With a 10 mins drive, it went up nearly 120'C (half of the gauge).

May I ask what might be the issue please? Really feeling frustrated now.

I checked the user manual and it said "exhaust emission have deteriorated"
But feel very frustrated and worried if there is any serious issue....also, wonder if I can still drive? Even drive to mechanic to it it checked out (don't want to strand in the middle of nowhere)

Thanks a lot for any help. Please.....

My car is a 2008 E92 325i

[Michael BD]

I have the same issue and BMW said I need to change my 02 sensor. I am still driving the car as there are no issues with the car, performance etc, but will need to fix this up if there is a change.

Is the car running ok? You will need to get the car diagnosed as it could be a different problem

[CYL]

Originally Posted by bornadog335i

I have the same issue and BMW said I need to change my 02 sensor. I am still driving the car as there are no issues with the car, performance etc, but will need to fix this up if there is a change.

Is the car running ok? You will need to get the car diagnosed as it could be a different problem

Hi, thanks. The car still drive like normal except the oil temperature seems like rising faster than normal (or maybe I was overly worried, and thought it rises up faster than normal?)

I will get my car inspected but just worry if the car dies on the way to mechanic, so I want to know if it is safe to drive? Or does anyone who can help doing the code check for me in Perth without driving to the mechanic?

[JinAM]

The user manual's description on the engine light is not entirely correct.
Basically, an engine warning light can mean no less than 50 different things/faults. Without checking the fault, the cause of it is just any ones guess.

[CYL]

Originally Posted by JinAM

The user manual's description on the engine light is not entirely correct.
Basically, an engine warning light can mean no less than 50 different things/faults. Without checking the fault, the cause of it is just any ones guess.

Then, is it safe to drive to mechanic? Should I risk it or get it towed to mechanic?
Also, what might be the worst case if I drive to mechanic? I am worried if I would further damage the engine and caused serious repair bill if I drive to mechanic...

[fo55il]

have you got a jb4?

[DR-JEKL]

If you have a 325i, I believe thay actually have a coolant temp gauge (whereas the 335i is oil temp). If that's the case I'm guessing it may be related to your cooling system.

Basically its ok to drive, just take it to your local bmw specialist for a diagnosis.

[CYL]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

If you have a 325i, I believe thay actually have a coolant temp gauge (whereas the 335i is oil temp). If that's the case I'm guessing it may be related to your cooling system.

Basically its ok to drive, just take it to your local bmw specialist for a diagnosis.

Hi DR-JEKL, oh, that's coolant temp gauge? sorry, i thought it is the oil temp.
yes, will bring my car to BMW for a diagnosis today, they said they just need to scan my car key and to reveal any issue.

I had also pay attention to the temp gauge last night when the engine light came off, found that (might be illusion) it rise up faster than normal, and when i parked my car, and let it idle for 5 mins, the temp drops back to 1/4 of the gauge (was nearly up to half of the gauge when i was driving)

cooling system issue......
I hope it is nothing too serious....

if the radiator is fxxked.....roughly how much is it? but i can still hear the fan working last night.....

[sjf430]

Ur radiator will only be stuffed if there is a leak, and we aren't even sure if that's the problem. Either way you can still drive your car fine like you said, so hopefully its nothing major, best thing to do is wait and see what they say and take it from there

[Scotty89]

Have you tried bleeding the coolant system?

I have had air pockets build up in my coolant system on the e46 and the above happened, due to not completely bleeding the system when refilling. Then when the air pockets pass by the coolant temp sensor, it does not get a correct reading (and erroneously shows overheating).

Parking your car with the engine running and slowly (read: SLOWLY!) loosen the bleeder valve on the coolant reservoir until it starts letting pressure out.

If it starts spraying coolant, close the valve again and wait for the system to keep cycling and building pressure again(maybe give it a few light throttle runs).

If there is air in the coolant lines, it should eventually make its way to the highest point (being the reservoir + bleeder valve). Opening the bleeder valve lets this air out, and you close it again when it stops releasing gas (and coolant instead sprays out).

Top up your coolant afterwards when it's cooled down.

[CYL]

Originally Posted by Scotty89

Have you tried bleeding the coolant system?

I have had air pockets build up in my coolant system on the e46 and the above happened, due to not completely bleeding the system when refilling. Then when the air pockets pass by the coolant temp sensor, it does not get a correct reading (and erroneously shows overheating).

Parking your car with the engine running and slowly (read: SLOWLY!) loosen the bleeder valve on the coolant reservoir until it starts letting pressure out.

If it starts spraying coolant, close the valve again and wait for the system to keep cycling and building pressure again(maybe give it a few light throttle runs).

If there is air in the coolant lines, it should eventually make its way to the highest point (being the reservoir + bleeder valve). Opening the bleeder valve lets this air out, and you close it again when it stops releasing gas (and coolant instead sprays out).

Top up your coolant afterwards when it's cooled down.

Hi, Thanks a lot for the valuable info.
I however wonder why would it happen suddenly as i have not done any coolant refilling in the last 12 months. will it just happen suddenly?? (i mean the air bubbles being trapped inside the cooling system.)

Thanks.

P.S. so, for the above procedures, if:
coolant spray out - no air inside cooling system?
no coolant spray out but gas releasing - air bubbles inside cooling system?
then what i need to do is just to keep repeating the steps until there is only coolant being sprayed out?
when i release the valve, should i do that after the car is being started and parked for a certain period of time? or i can do it straight after i started my car?

[Scotty89]

Originally Posted by CYL

Hi, Thanks a lot for the valuable info.
I however wonder why would it happen suddenly as i have not done any coolant refilling in the last 12 months. will it just happen suddenly?? (i mean the air bubbles being trapped inside the cooling system.)

Thanks.

P.S. so, for the above procedures, if:
coolant spray out - no air inside cooling system?
no coolant spray out but gas releasing - air bubbles inside cooling system?
then what i need to do is just to keep repeating the steps until there is only coolant being sprayed out?
when i release the valve, should i do that after the car is being started and parked for a certain period of time? or i can do it straight after i started my car?

Yes, well as you just mentioned you hadn't touched the coolant system in over 12 months then I doubt this is the problem. I just remember having "false" over heating in the E46 due to air trapped in the coolant system.


But, nonetheless - your procedures are correct though both can occur.

The part that tricked me before I understood it was that air can get trapped in the coolant channels in mid-engine or in the hoses if you don't bleed the system successfully when flushing coolant.

If this happens, the little bobble stick that indicates coolant level (remove cap, red bobble pops up to tell you it's at correct level) can actually display "full" coolant, yet it may not be completely full.

It was a bit different though, as the water pump in the E46 was belt driven (so revving the engine may help pulse the air through the hoses back to the reservoir/bleeder screw). I don't think this approach will work with the electric pump in the N54, though I'm not sure if the N52 (325i?) has an electric water pump or belt driven.

The principle is the same anyway - basically air should bubbles should float to the top, with the reservoir being the highest point of the system the air should make its way up there.

As the water heats up, it will heat the air bubbles as well causing the pressure build up in the coolant system, which is why you release the bleeder screw to let the air out. Eventually after repeating this process you should be able to eliminate the air bubbles, the coolant level will drop in the reservoir, then you top it up to correct level and you're all set.

You should open the bleeder valve once it's at operating temperature - but do be careful as the steam or coolant will be hot and may burn you if not careful.
I got quite a bit of coolant on myself with the E46 troubles but it wasn't hot enough to scold me.

[CYL]

Originally Posted by Scotty89

Yes, well as you just mentioned you hadn't touched the coolant system in over 12 months then I doubt this is the problem. I just remember having "false" over heating in the E46 due to air trapped in the coolant system.


But, nonetheless - your procedures are correct though both can occur.

The part that tricked me before I understood it was that air can get trapped in the coolant channels in mid-engine or in the hoses if you don't bleed the system successfully when flushing coolant.

If this happens, the little bobble stick that indicates coolant level (remove cap, red bobble pops up to tell you it's at correct level) can actually display "full" coolant, yet it may not be completely full.

It was a bit different though, as the water pump in the E46 was belt driven (so revving the engine may help pulse the air through the hoses back to the reservoir/bleeder screw). I don't think this approach will work with the electric pump in the N54, though I'm not sure if the N52 (325i?) has an electric water pump or belt driven.

The principle is the same anyway - basically air should bubbles should float to the top, with the reservoir being the highest point of the system the air should make its way up there.

As the water heats up, it will heat the air bubbles as well causing the pressure build up in the coolant system, which is why you release the bleeder screw to let the air out. Eventually after repeating this process you should be able to eliminate the air bubbles, the coolant level will drop in the reservoir, then you top it up to correct level and you're all set.

You should open the bleeder valve once it's at operating temperature - but do be careful as the steam or coolant will be hot and may burn you if not careful.
I got quite a bit of coolant on myself with the E46 troubles but it wasn't hot enough to scold me.

Thanks!!!
i am getting my car key to BMW for a quick scan today and see what they come back to me.
hopefully its not any serious thing....

[Scotty89]

Originally Posted by CYL

Thanks!!!
i am getting my car key to BMW for a quick scan today and see what they come back to me.
hopefully its not any serious thing....

Before you agree to anything, come back here and research what they tell you!

BMW Australia is notorious for overquoting and fixing things that don't need fixing.

A lot of "technicians" will replace things rather than diagnose and repair, if they know you're going to pay without question.

[CYL]

Originally Posted by Scotty89

Before you agree to anything, come back here and research what they tell you!

BMW Australia is notorious for overquoting and fixing things that don't need fixing.

A lot of "technicians" will replace things rather than diagnose and repair, if they know you're going to pay without question.

Thanks! Will surely come back to share the experience with everyone after the scan.

[CYL]

Ok, scan completed.
BMW advised me codes as below:

2C3E: N55 with EU5 exhaust emission regulations - DME fault entry, Flow control valve, actuation
CF17: GM6, EGS, CF17 fault after programming (calibration between ISTA/D and ISTA/P missing.

They quoted me a 2 hours labour, with $200+ per hour......NOT including any parts...
Have also said that it might just be a programming issue.....
Any idea what should I do now?
If it can only be fixed at BMW if it is program related??
Please help me....

[sonaldinho89]

I'd be getting your codes read by someone with INPA to see the detailed version of what's going on - this will tell you when the error occured, how many times!! and what you were doing when it happened

Communication fault errors aren't uncommon, I would try clearing it first to see if it recurs. And if it does, a hard reset of the module(s) normally clears things up If you haven't been tinkering with programming and there's no loose connections (which the car being driveable seems to verify), then that's the first thing I'd try

The second fault is lambda/O2 sensor related...should not be causing your coolant temperature issues.

In any case, you should get your codes read properly from the car instead of just the key memory by someone who isn't a dealer (ie a mate/Worx)

The diagnostic flow chart for most dealer techs (following DIS instructions) is:
Read codes -> identify any associated part -> replace part -> clear codes & flash latest software - > return car

I'm not saying that's an indictment on the tech themselves, more a commentary on how the system works. It's effective at fixing things, just not judicious in its use of your money.

p.s. to answer your question: programming & resetting modules can be done by anyone with a proper laptop set up, not just BMW dealers

[CYL]

Originally Posted by sonaldinho89

I'd be getting your codes read by someone with INPA to see the detailed version of what's going on - this will tell you when the error occured, how many times!! and what you were doing when it happened

Communication fault errors aren't uncommon, I would try clearing it first to see if it recurs. And if it does, a hard reset of the module(s) normally clears things up If you haven't been tinkering with programming and there's no loose connections (which the car being driveable seems to verify), then that's the first thing I'd try

The second fault is lambda/O2 sensor related...should not be causing your coolant temperature issues.

In any case, you should get your codes read properly from the car instead of just the key memory by someone who isn't a dealer (ie a mate/Worx)

The diagnostic flow chart for most dealer techs (following DIS instructions) is:
Read codes -> identify any associated part -> replace part -> clear codes & flash latest software - > return car

I'm not saying that's an indictment on the tech themselves, more a commentary on how the system works. It's effective at fixing things, just not judicious in its use of your money.

p.s. to answer your question: programming & resetting modules can be done by anyone with a proper laptop set up, not just BMW dealers

So, what's the first error code? Communication?

And the second error is the O2 sensor? I am curious how would the sensor affect the water temp? Would love to learn the concept behind

Thanks.

[dr335e93]

Originally Posted by CYL

Ok, scan completed.
BMW advised me codes as below:

2C3E: N55 with EU5 exhaust emission regulations - DME fault entry, Flow control valve, actuation
CF17: GM6, EGS, CF17 fault after programming (calibration between ISTA/D and ISTA/P missing.

They quoted me a 2 hours labour, with $200+ per hour......NOT including any parts...
Have also said that it might just be a programming issue.....
Any idea what should I do now?
If it can only be fixed at BMW if it is program related??
Please help me....

Mate you have a 325.
Why did they tell you your first code was a N55 fault?

Either they are jerking you off or you are jerking us off.

Wtf?

[Michael BD]

Originally Posted by CYL

So, what's the first error code? Communication?

And the second error is the O2 sensor? I am curious how would the sensor affect the water temp? Would love to learn the concept behind

Thanks.

BMW quoted me $900 to replace O2 sensor, when I complained they said oh we can do it for $700.

I am going to ring Active when I get some cash in and see what Jin says.

[CYL]

Originally Posted by dr335e93

Mate you have a 325.
Why did they tell you your first code was a N55 fault?

Either they are jerking you off or you are jerking us off.

Wtf?

I dont know, that's what the report from BMW.....

[CYL]

Originally Posted by bornadog335i

BMW quoted me $900 to replace O2 sensor, when I complained they said oh we can do it for $700.

I am going to ring Active when I get some cash in and see what Jin says.

$700 for an O2 sensor??
have you got the same error code as i did?