[MiniXP]

Currently I usually use Menzerna Power Finish PO 203 with an orange pad for polishing. I can get most of the swirls out with this and have a great shine, but

It seems like there are always some very light swirls left. These are only visible under direct sunlight if you are looking really hard. Usually I am fine with this on my car because they really aren't noticeable, plus my car is silver, so it's even less noticeable.

I recently got a Sparkling Graphite e90 and am planning to make an order of some stuff for my first detail on it. Since that color is darker, I imagine any light swirls will be more noticable.

Should I get something like this for it to use first:
https://detailersdomain.com/Menzerna...int_p_822.html

I imagine I would do this first, then follow up with the Power finish. I do have Super finish also, but have found it usually isn't necessary to use after power finish (this could just be because I have a silver car).

I'm thinking I would do:
Menzerna Fast gloss w/ uber orange pad, followed by Power finish with Orange or white(LC) pad (not sure which one I should use).

Or would I want to do
Fast gloss followed by Super Finish?

I use a PC orbital btw.

[psnt1ol]

FG 400 is a compound and on some paint...it will finish well without a second step. If your paint is soft or finicky then you might be looking at a finishing step to remove the DA haze.

Every car is slightly different so you will have to do a test spot to see what works for you. You should always start by using the least aggressive approach to get the job done. Don't grab the largest hammer in the tool box just because it's there. Any compound you use is a large hammer. The thickness of clear coat is finite and factory OEM paint is very thin (120-150 microns - as thick as a post-it note).

Menzerna IP 1500 is a very good medium polish and this generally will remove most minor defects with the right PC technique (arm speed, pressure, pad rotation). I only brings out the hammer when I am dealing with the really nasty neglected paint providing when it is safe to do so.....of course.

[MiniXP]

Originally Posted by psnt1ol

FG 400 is a compound and on some paint...it will finish well without a second step. If your paint is soft or finicky then you might be looking at a finishing step to remove the DA haze.

Every car is slightly different so you will have to do a test spot to see what works for you. You should always start by using the least aggressive approach to get the job done. Don't grab the largest hammer in the tool box just because it's there. Any compound you use is a large hammer. The thickness of clear coat is finite and factory OEM paint is very thin (120-150 microns - as thick as a post-it note).

Menzerna IP 1500 is a very good medium polish and this generally will remove most minor defects with the right PC technique (arm speed, pressure, pad rotation). I only brings out the hammer when I am dealing with the really nasty neglected paint providing when it is safe to do so.....of course.

Ok. The reason I'm looking into something stronger, is because I'm considering doing opticoat at some point. I want to make sure I have the correct polishes available befor I start the car, so that I can get all imperfections out before applying opticoat.

If I want to buy something stronger than the Power Finish that I already have, would you say IP would be a better choice than FG 400?

Also, you say IP 1500. Do you mean SIP 1500 or IP 2000? I'm looking at this page for reference: http://www.menzernausa.com/menzerna-automotive.htm

My paint isn't in terrible shape, I was actually kind of impressed with the detail job the dealer did. It was better than most dealership detail jobs I've seen, but there are still swirls visible under direct light that I want to get rid of.

[bob.g]

for a 1 step, i use menzerna pf2500 (po203 like you) but will soon switch to sonax perfect finish, it looks sick: http://www.autopiaforums.com/forums/...-showdown.html

[psnt1ol]

SIP 1500 is what I was referring to.

Opticoat 2.0 as we know it is not in production anymore.... the product replacing is called Optimum Gloss-Coat. It is meant to be more glossier than Opticoat 2.0 but Optimum also re-worded the description of the product. It is now semi-permanent and a single application will last up to 2 years.

Whichever coating you decide to use on your car, be sure to do a IPA wipe down or something equivalent when using menzerna products. They tend to be on the oily side. This will promote a better bond.

[MiniXP]

Originally Posted by psnt1ol

SIP 1500 is what I was referring to.

Opticoat 2.0 as we know it is not in production anymore.... the product replacing is called Optimum Gloss-Coat. It is meant to be more glossier than Opticoat 2.0 but Optimum also re-worded the description of the product. It is now semi-permanent and a single application will last up to 2 years.

Whichever coating you decide to use on your car, be sure to do a IPA wipe down or something equivalent when using menzerna products. They tend to be on the oily side. This will promote a better bond.

Yea I did see that about opti 2.0. I'll probably go with gloss coat. I'll probably wait about a year before I do a coating just to see reviews of gloss coat. I usually use and like klasse SG, but it seems like a coating is really the way to go now.

[psnt1ol]

Originally Posted by bob.g

for a 1 step, i use menzerna pf2500 (po203 like you) but will soon switch to sonax perfect finish, it looks sick: http://www.autopiaforums.com/forums/...-showdown.html

In reference to the test done by Todd Helme on Autopiaforum..... the polish used is only part of the equation. The machine used and his skill set were also contributing factors to the result. A PC simply cant compete heads up with a Flex 3401. Rupes???? Maybe. His techniques/sklill set is to the point where he could get good results with any products.

It like a car manufacturer advertise zero to 60 time on a vehicle. They use a professional driver to attain that time. Do you think any of us could achieve that off the street????? It takes practice...lots and lots of it.

Sonax PF was one of my all-time favorite polish until CarPro Reflect came out a few months back.

A new version of Sonax PF is coming so who knows......

[psnt1ol]

Originally Posted by MiniXP

Yea I did see that about opti 2.0. I'll probably go with gloss coat. I'll probably wait about a year before I do a coating just to see reviews of gloss coat. I usually use and like klasse SG, but it seems like a coating is really the way to go now.

Waxes will never be obsolete but I, too, prefer a coating over traditional LSPs. Gloss-coat is not the only game in town. If you are talking about a 2 years durability then CQuartz and GTechnig should also be included in the conversation. I have CQUK on mine right now and I am pretty happy with it.

[bob.g]

Originally Posted by psnt1ol

In reference to the test done by Todd Helme on Autopiaforum..... the polish used is only part of the equation. The machine used and his skill set were also contributing factors to the result. A PC simply cant compete heads up with a Flex 3401. Rupes???? Maybe. His techniques/sklill set is to the point where he could get good results with any products.

It like a car manufacturer advertise zero to 60 time on a vehicle. They use a professional driver to attain that time. Do you think any of us could achieve that off the street????? It takes practice...lots and lots of it.

Sonax PF was one of my all-time favorite polish until CarPro Reflect came out a few months back.

A new version of Sonax PF is coming so who knows......

hmm i missed that mini had a pc. Yeah not sure if that will work out well, pf was made to work with a rotary (great results with the flex too tho).

[MiniXP]

Originally Posted by psnt1ol

Waxes will never be obsolete but I, too, prefer a coating over traditional LSPs. Gloss-coat is not the only game in town. If you are talking about a 2 years durability then CQuartz and GTechnig should also be included in the conversation. I have CQUK on mine right now and I am pretty happy with it.

Yea I am also going to look into cquartz and gtechiq when I do decide to go with a coating

[boyerstyle]

I use your method mentioned at the bottom, FG-400 and let it fully break down and follow with the sf-4000. Has been a great go-to for these ceramic clear coats. I've used that method with a Dewalt polisher on 3 e90s and an e82. Good luck!

[boyerstyle]

Psnt1 is totally right about the 400 being sufficient on some cars. I've
Been able to use it as a one step and that's it on some cars. If you buy the 400 make sure you let it fully break down. I do 4 slow passes and then 2-4 faster passes. I can't remember if that's on the bottle or something I read in a how to, but it's worked awesome.