[135Pats]

Emissions is coming up this week so I put the DPfix in and in the 6PM position when the wires are facing away from you. Install went fine. I've driven around for probably 50 miles at this point and have straight pump gas in the tank. I've done a reset via Cobb and could do more specific resets with the BT cable if that's going to be helpful.

Anyways, today the car decided to throw the SES light along with 4 secondary O2 related codes

P0161
P0141
P2CA9
P2CA8

Believe the first two are heater circuit related (bank 1 and 2). All are related to the secondary O2s so far as I can tell. The car drives fine but it won't pass with all this SES. I haven't completed a full drive cycle yet but the codes re-appear within about 3 minutes of driving.

Any thoughts on this? Before reflashing to STG0 there weren't any codes of any type. Obviously I need to get this taken care of before I go in. Thanks!

[gzim335]

Turn clock wise like 2 clicks n delete codes see if they reappear

[135Pats]

Originally Posted by gzim335

Turn clock wise like 2 clicks n delete codes see if they reappear

So to like 8 o'clock?

The dial seemed quite difficult to rotate, is that just how it is? Apologies for the noob questions, have never used a DPfix before.

Thanks!

[2jzn54]

iirc i set it to 5 o'clock (5:30 to be precise).. try that. you may have to play with it everyone has a different experience.. a bit but 6 shouldn't be throwing you so far off that you have an ses.. if its causing the ses may need to go below 5.. and yes the dial is a bit difficult to rotate, but its best that way you don't want it spinning around.. use a thin flat head to turn it.

[135Pats]

Originally Posted by Daily Three

iirc i set it to 5 o'clock.. try that. you may have to play with it a bit but 6 shouldn't be throwing you so far off that you have an ses.. and yes the dial is a bit difficult to rotate, but its best that way you don't want it spinning around.. use a thin flat head to turn it.

Wait so previous guy said turn it clockwise 2 "o-clocks" so that would be 8PM.

You say turn it one back to 5PM. This would be making it stronger- I plead ignorance but why would this help?

It's throwing some type of lambda heating code.

[Fundguy1]

What's emissions? Lol. Seriously, I'm putting in catless downpipes. Do I need the o2 fix to not throw codes or can I have that killed with a barvarian, juicebox4, or Cobb? I don't have emissions testing but I don't like the lights. Thx

[135Pats]

Originally Posted by Fundguy1

What's emissions? Lol. Seriously, I'm putting in catless downpipes. Do I need the o2 fix to not throw codes or can I have that killed with a barvarian, juicebox4, or Cobb? I don't have emissions testing but I don't like the lights. Thx

Luck you

Yes all "STG2" maps OTS and JB keep the code or any associated lights from appearing. If you have ATR you can toggle certain codes as well. Emissions is a separate and obnoxious other issue.

[2jzn54]

yes i believe thats correct.. but too high a setting will also put you out of tolerance and as you are seeing. dme thinks you have a bad o2/busted cat.. primary reads fine but the secondary isn't reading what it would expect. make sense? not saying 8 o'clock won't work i've read people using all sorts of values (generally not that high), but i'd try somewhere between 3-5:30 before going higher and i say that only because statistically from what i've seen they've been in that range. some people have reported having to turn the dial up higher though so it wouldn't surprise me if you needed to.. just adjust the dial clear codes.. make sure autoclear is off take a spin and see if it comes back..

[2jzn54]

Originally Posted by Fundguy1

What's emissions? Lol. Seriously, I'm putting in catless downpipes. Do I need the o2 fix to not throw codes or can I have that killed with a barvarian, juicebox4, or Cobb? I don't have emissions testing but I don't like the lights. Thx

you don't need the dp fix. all the tunes have some sort of built in cel fix in one way or another.

[135Pats]

Originally Posted by Daily Three

yes i believe thats correct.. but too high a setting will also put you out of tolerance and as you are seeing. dme thinks you have a bad o2/busted cat.. primary reads fine but the secondary isn't reading what it would expect. make sense? not saying 8 o'clock won't work i've read people using all sorts of values (generally not that high), but i'd try somewhere between 3-5:30 before going higher and i say that only because statistically from what i've seen they've been in that range. some people have reported having to turn the dial up higher though so it wouldn't surprise me if you needed to.. just adjust the dial clear codes.. make sure autoclear is off take a spin and see if it comes back..

Yea I hear you for sure. No primary codes at all, just these weird secondary heating ones. I'll try for more like 4PM, so that'll make the Dp Fix signal stronger and hopefully clear out these codes.

Turning it to 8 wouldn't make much sense to me, that would be making it weaker. I don't see how a weaker signal would help but the codes being thrown are random as hell.

Thanks for the help i'll report back in a bit.

[Fundguy1]

Cool. Now I just need the downpipes installed lol. Thx

[2jzn54]

np good luck. once you get it dialed in the fun part starts.. getting the monitors ready lol.

[135Pats]

Originally Posted by Daily Three

np good luck. once you get it dialed in the fun part starts.. getting the monitors ready lol.

The same codes showed up on the way to work this morning, probably 20 miles or so after turning DP Fix strength up to 4PM from 5:30-6PM.

Two mixture codes, and two "lambda probe heating" codes. The exact same codes as were occuring at the weaker DP fix setting.

The fuel codes could be from the DME not adapting back to pump gas fully, I had run nothing but E50 for well over a year prior to this. I'll reset fuel and lambda adaptations tonight to see if that fixes the mixture codes.

But the two lambda "heating" codes just make no sense to me. The circuit heater fuse is fine, I checked that last night. I have never seen these two codes before, and can't find any DP fix threads that cover them.

I guess I could set it even stronger but at this point, i'm literally guessing. Someone noted to me that the PDF instructions were incorrect, and that of the 2 yellow wires (believe pins 19 and 20 on the DME box) one of them had to be used. The instructions says you can use either, and just leave the other one hanging loose.

Thoughts? Thank you for all your help here...Emissions are tomorrow and it's not looking good lol.

[2jzn54]

i doubt your o2 sensor just died on you. with your commute.. you would have pulled a code by now regardless of autoclearing.

Do you have to go in for emissions tomorrow? Car definitely will not pass even if you get the dp fix dialed in. The OBD monitors reset anytime you clear a fault code and you need to go through the cycle (generally a few times) to get the monitors "ready" provided there are no other issues.

Unforunately with the dp fix guessing can be a part of it, however thinking about this a bit more i'd think you'd be getting just mixture codes (its been a while since i've dealth with this).. i'd check the wiring because it is very easy to cross them... i'd dial it to 5 and check your wiring.. hoping its just the wiring i know it can be frustrating getting it dialed in the first time.

[135Pats]

Originally Posted by Daily Three

i doubt your o2 sensor just died on you. with your commute.. you would have pulled a code by now regardless of autoclearing.

Do you have to go in for emissions tomorrow? Car definitely will not pass even if you get the dp fix dialed in. The OBD monitors reset anytime you clear a fault code and you need to go through the cycle (generally a few times) to get the monitors "ready" provided there are no other issues.

Unforunately with the dp fix guessing can be a part of it, however thinking about this a bit more i'd think you'd be getting just mixture codes (its been a while since i've dealth with this).. i'd check the wiring because it is very easy to cross them... i'd dial it to 5 and check your wiring.. hoping its just the wiring i know it can be frustrating getting it dialed in the first time.

Yea I seriously doubt the O2s are acutally bad, I had never seen those codes EVER before putting in the DP fix.

My emissions is technically due tomorrow, though frankly if I fail once it's really not a big deal. They give you a few weeks to get things sorted out, not like it's a high crime or something. So i'll go in tomorrow and if I fail, I fail.

Curious when you say wiring - which wires could be mixed up? Outside of the two yellow wires from the DME, every DP Fix connection is 1 to 1 so there's not a ton to mix up. The directions say the two DME yellow wires are interchangeable, IE you can use either one of them and just leave the other one.

Sorry to keep inundating you with questions, I appreciate the help sir

[2jzn54]

no problem i've been down that road before i remember fiddling around with it and not getting it to dial in right away checking my wiring 10 times and the relief i felt when it all just worked.

i was under the impression you were using a jb4 is this not the case? (i was referring to the slots in the harness)

[135Pats]

Originally Posted by Daily Three

no problem i've been down that road before i remember fiddling around with it and not getting it to dial in right away checking my wiring 10 times and the relief i felt when it all just worked.

i was under the impression you were using a jb4 is this not the case? (i was referring to the slots in the harness)

Nope - i'm flash only (Cobb). So not auto-clear or anything like that, it's 100% DP-Fix to DME wires.

Install went just fine so far as I can tell.

[135Pats]

Had a brief chat with a local friend of mine who waltzed into emissions WITH STG2+ mapping (flash-only) and no DP Fix, he passed with flying colors. Believe he only failed the evap monitor, all others were OK.

I was under the impression it was physically impossible to get any monitors reporting a "ready" state with STG2+ type mapping. So at this point I am baffled....

[2jzn54]

ahh that makes much more sense then with the cobb lol.

well most monitors would be fine because most aren't out of tolerance by the tune/mods.. but there is no chance he passed catless with the cobb ots maps prob has cats i take it? if he was catless he would of had to drive in right after the dps were installed even then he wouldn't have a good shot if it wasn't done in the same shop. otherwise im baffled how he'd pass

when you flashed back to stock all the monitors reset and you have to go through the cycle procedure again. (anytime you flash the monitors reset)

are you deleting the fault codes when you change the dial?

[135Pats]

Originally Posted by Daily Three

ahh that makes much more sense then with the cobb lol.

well most monitors would be fine because most aren't out of tolerance by the tune/mods.. but there is no chance he passed catless with the cobb ots maps prob has cats i take it? if he was catless he would of had to drive in right after the dps were installed even then he wouldn't have a good shot if it wasn't done in the same shop. otherwise im baffled how he'd pass

when you flashed back to stock all the monitors reset and you have to go through the cycle procedure again. (anytime you flash the monitors reset)

are you deleting the fault codes when you change the dial?

He passed 100% catless, I was there when he got protuned by Jake, then he drove directly to the DMV testing center. Absolutely, positively zero changes he made. It makes less than no sense but he passed. The car gods were on his side I guess.

With regards to the bolded part, here is what i've been doing

1. DP Fix is in and is currently in the 4PM position, presuming wires are facing away from you.
2. The car is flashed to STG0, and has been since the DP Fix went in on Saturday AM.
3. I've attempted several drive cycles, and several instances where I just start the car and drive around per usual. Each time, it is interrupted by these codes. The only time i've gotten an SES/CEL was when the mixture code threw a lean condition, the "lambda heater" codes don't appear to trigger any type of in-dash warning.
4. When the codes appear, i've been clearing them with Cobb and going back to square one. I strengthened the DP fix as we discussed last night, within 10-15 miles of driving all the codes had returned.

At this point i'm considering uninstalling Cobb all together, and trying the DP Fix with the OE flash. That is purely speculative on my part, I have no idea what the issue is. I haven't gotten any of the traditional "too weak" or "too strong" codes that are associated with the DP Fix. It seems like it's just not working for whatever reason.

I could also try doing specific adaptation resets with my BT cable, or a hard ECU reset with Cobb. To this point i've just been clearing DTC codes and going about my business until they inevitably re-appear.

I'm sounding like a broken record but again, I really appreciate your help here. Many, many thanks.

[UMich_335i]

Ha, I was the one who passed with the protune map. There was probably a good 3 months in between my protune and my emissions check but never did anything else. Its starting to sound like I got lucky instead of actually finding a way to beat the system. I had just assumed I was able to pass all monitors except for my cat readiness check and MD allows 1 to fail so I just assumed that was it.

Originally Posted by UMich_335i

I had just assumed I was able to pass all monitors except for my cat readiness check and MD allows 1 to fail so I just assumed that was it.

That's what I'm guessing too. Check the paper they gave you to see what the test results were.

OP: If you're going to fail anyway, might as well fail while trying a method that has worked for many others in the past. I would do the following: put Cobb back to stage 2, drive around for a while (at least until 2 of the 3 monitors are ready), then go to emissions. The DP fix sounds like a pain in the ass in your case. Either way, apply for an extension:
http://www.mva.maryland.gov/about-mv.../58000-08T.htm