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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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I need your opinion
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09-26-2014, 02:03 AM | #1 |
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I need your opinion
Back story: I bought a Cobb AP V3 for my e92, and after installing it (running stage 1 aggressive), I wasn't truly satisfied with the performance I got from it. Don't get me wrong, I felt a boost in power, but it wasn't exactly as much as I was expecting on the dyno. So, my plan was to go with a FMIC next. (I have DCI and muffler delete as my only other mods) anyways, I was going to go with the VRSF 7" FMIC next, to lower IATs and so I can run stage 1+ FMIC on my Cobb. However, after doing a little more research on JB4, I'm leaning towards going with JB4 instead of Cobb. JB4 has auto tune (map 5) which will allow me to run a blend of e85. JB4 also has 2step, no lift shift (NLS), and the ability to switch maps on the fly. I tried switching maps on my Cobb recently, and not only can I not switch them on the fly, the car has to be stopped, engine shut OFF, and it takes about 2 minutes to switch maps.
So, considering all these factors, I'm asking your opinion. What should I do? Get the 7" FMIC (though I can hold off because winter is coming, so my IATs don't go above 100 anyways) or should I go with JB4 and run a blend of e85 (probably e30 or e40) on map 5 and reap the other benefits of the JB4? When I go JB4 I'll keep the Cobb so I can stack them later on down the road. JB4 or FMIC?
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'08 BSM E92 335i 6MT/MHD stg 2+/VRSF 7" FMIC/VRSF CP/HKS BOV/VRSF catless DPs/BMS DCI/muffler delete/BC Extreme lows/OEM style 167s/BMS high side OCC/Mishimoto low side OCC/etc
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09-26-2014, 02:55 AM | #2 | |
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09-26-2014, 04:35 AM | #3 |
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I already have DCI. Reason I was going to go with FMIC next was to lower my IATs since they were pretty high during the summer (about 120-140 after a few pulls) but now that winter is coming, my IATs stay around 80-90 so I'm not super concerned about a FMIC right now. But FMIC would allow me to run the next map on the Cobb.
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'08 BSM E92 335i 6MT/MHD stg 2+/VRSF 7" FMIC/VRSF CP/HKS BOV/VRSF catless DPs/BMS DCI/muffler delete/BC Extreme lows/OEM style 167s/BMS high side OCC/Mishimoto low side OCC/etc
Last edited by Reckless335; 09-26-2014 at 05:23 AM.. |
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09-26-2014, 04:59 AM | #4 |
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You're butt dyno isn't going to get anything with an IC but you'll be able to maintain the power you have now (within reason). You'll notice a big difference in power with stacking the JB4 on top.
So choose your poison... |
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09-26-2014, 05:22 AM | #5 |
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Butt dyno won't notice the FMIC, but if I get the FMIC, I can jump to stage 1+ on the Cobb. I'm currently running stage 1. So it's be a jump on the Cobb. Not sure how much more power the stage 1+ has over the stage 1 though.
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'08 BSM E92 335i 6MT/MHD stg 2+/VRSF 7" FMIC/VRSF CP/HKS BOV/VRSF catless DPs/BMS DCI/muffler delete/BC Extreme lows/OEM style 167s/BMS high side OCC/Mishimoto low side OCC/etc
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09-26-2014, 05:39 AM | #6 |
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A pro tune on a cobb for e85 will more than likely be run stronger than an auto tune. Those milliseconds of stack up on function calculations do add up...
nothing wrong with JB4 but after tuning ECUs a bit, I'd prefer a new base map rather than comping continuously. Justin
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09-26-2014, 12:53 PM | #7 |
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I would go that route NudeLobster, honestly, I wanted to, so bad. But I can't protune myself, and I tried contacting PTF about getting a protune, and due to them being "busy" trying to release their new single turbo blah blah bullshit, their customer service skills went to shit (or maybe they always have been shit, Idk) but since dealing with that I've decided against getting a protune until I'm absolutely 100% finished building the car. PTF left a bad taste in my mouth. My original plan was to buy a Cobb, and get a protune (PTFs Maryland location isn't too far from me, about 3 hours) so I was wanting to go to PTF, and get a protune in person, then get FMIC, get the protune updated, then chargepipe/BOV and downpipes, then get the protune adjusted, then upgraded turbos, protune adjusted. However, because of my experience, I'm putting off getting a protune until last. Dead last. I'm more than happy with the OTS maps if that kind of customer service is expected when trying to get a protune. I'm not bad mouthing the protune itself, as I can't speak on it because I don't have it, but customer service wise, I'm more than displeased with PTF and I'm not going to attempt to get a protune until last.
That being said, thank you for commenting and offering your opinion, but your opinion isn't one of the two options I listed. Of those two choices, and those two choices alone, which would you go with?
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09-26-2014, 02:16 PM | #8 |
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Go with the JB4 G5 ISO, and stack it now. Even just stacking it with simple mods it helps the car run smoother and a bit stronger now. Run some E85 in there and don't worry about having to get so precise with being E30 that the Cobb demands. Map 5 will figure that out for you and adjust accordingly to how much E85 you have in the tank.
I've run both setups. And IMO, the JB4 stacked setup is superior. You get the on the fly switching and all the guage hijacking, plus the auto tuning. Just my opinion of course.
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09-26-2014, 02:54 PM | #9 |
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Thank you for your input. I apologize if this is a dumb question, but how exactly would I stack them? As I've said, I'm currently running Cobb Stage 1 aggressive. If I get the JB4 and run it on map 5 for autotune for e85, what would I run the Cobb on? Could I leave it set on stage 1 aggressive? Would I have to change it to stage 0 (factory settings) basically disabling the Cobb? How would I go about stacking them? Reason I was going to wait until down the road to stack was because I haven't looked into stacking, or how to do it, the pros and cons of doing it, etc.
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'08 BSM E92 335i 6MT/MHD stg 2+/VRSF 7" FMIC/VRSF CP/HKS BOV/VRSF catless DPs/BMS DCI/muffler delete/BC Extreme lows/OEM style 167s/BMS high side OCC/Mishimoto low side OCC/etc
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09-26-2014, 03:10 PM | #10 | |
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JB4 G5, Stage 3 LPFP, Stage 2 MOTIV PI, VM 6466 ST, Custom OCC W/ SS lines, ER FMIC, ER CP W/HKS BOV, M3 control arms, M3 guide rods, M3 upper links, M3 front & rear sway-bars, HPA rear toe arms, Wavetrac LSD, HPF Gen 2, DEFIV kit, KW clubsport, Delrin solid SF bushings, stoptech rotors, Rogue Tranny Mounts, 1M bumper, M3 CF hood, M3 fenders, M3 OEM sideskirts, Mtech rear bumper, CSL trunk, MORR VS8.2 rims 245/295
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09-26-2014, 03:13 PM | #11 |
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With stock dps he is going to have a huge limitation
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09-26-2014, 05:01 PM | #12 |
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what Rob said....the two work great together.
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09-26-2014, 05:58 PM | #13 |
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Well, you already have the Cobb. If you're planning on getting the FMIC at some point anyway, you might as well try the stage 1 +fmic maps. Going from stage 1 to stage 1+fmic maps was a bigger jump than going stock to stage 1 in my opinion. It's a huge increase in power, felt like 30-40whp on a butt dyno. That should satisfy your power needs for a while anyway or at least until you get a protune. I used PTF for my protune and they were awesome to work with. You'll know after the first map revision that you made a good decision, it's just straight ridiculous how smooth and powerful the car becomes. Also, you mention disliking the time it takes to change a map and in that sense the JB is the clear winner, but how often are you really changing maps?
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09-27-2014, 12:16 AM | #14 | |
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'08 BSM E92 335i 6MT/MHD stg 2+/VRSF 7" FMIC/VRSF CP/HKS BOV/VRSF catless DPs/BMS DCI/muffler delete/BC Extreme lows/OEM style 167s/BMS high side OCC/Mishimoto low side OCC/etc
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09-27-2014, 07:08 AM | #15 |
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A Cobb v3 is $900 while JB4 ($480) + BT cable ($180) and VRSF 7" ($450) is $1100. Throw in a fuel pump ($100) and some e85 and you're making 430-450 whp. As much as I love the cobb tuner, if you're on a budget there are other options that can save you a lot of $.
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09-27-2014, 08:09 AM | #16 |
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There is no point in switching without intercooler or DPs. If you want to switch (or use both) get all your other hardware first. Do you really need a 2 step and NLS on a car with stock intercooler and DPs (the first and 2nd gear boost limiter seems much more useful on a non race car)? You may enjoy the features but at the end of the day with stock intercooler and DPs your still going to be at square one (wanting more power). Your much better off buying an intercooler than a tune if you already have a tune (with multiple OTS maps to choose from). At the end of the day I bet you buy the JB4 and have to see for yourself lol. You've posted about switching before, just be done with it cause its bugging you not to.
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09-27-2014, 09:06 AM | #17 |
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What he said, and he said and yes also, what he said. All above are good recommendations, you're not going to make a 'wrong' decision, it's just a question of maximizing. M2cents is JB4/Backend flash and as many supporting mods as the budget supports!
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09-27-2014, 09:29 AM | #18 |
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You already have a good tuning platform, try out the Cobb E30 OTS map and see what you think before spending the money for a JB4. Also, depending on your location and since we're going into fall/ winter now which means cooler temps, I'd recommend DP's before the intercooler. Much more noticeable gains to be had there.
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09-27-2014, 05:06 PM | #19 | |
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09-28-2014, 05:56 PM | #20 | ||||
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This thread isn't helping. Half are saying JB4, half are saying FMIC. I was hoping the consensus would be skewed one direction. I might just go FMIC then since its slightly cheaper than JB4.
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09-28-2014, 06:25 PM | #21 |
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I would get a fmic 1st. Try out the Cobb stg1 plus fmic if not fully satisfied switch to jb4. Either way your going to need a fmic. That's what I'd do.
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