[pinco000]

Hi guys, this might sound silly to you. But Im just about to get a E92 320d LCI after swapping my 325i non LCI.
What I would like to know is simple..
DOs and DONTs with a diesel engine. Thanks

[Sensible_]

I'd say...

- regular oil changes
- regular filter changes
- familiarise yourself with the DPF and invest in some sort of software that reads fault codes and can tell you when the DPF was last regenerated.
- Avoid very short trips if possible.
- Depending on exact date of production do some reading on "N47 timing chain" (don't freak out though, it's not that common)
- Enjoy! It's a great engine for economy / power balance.

[pinco000]

Originally Posted by Sensible_

I'd say...

- regular oil changes
- regular filter changes
- familiarise yourself with the DPF and invest in some sort of software that reads fault codes and can tell you when the DPF was last regenerated.
- Avoid very short trips if possible.
- Depending on exact date of production do some reading on "N47 timing chain" (don't freak out though, it's not that common)
- Enjoy! It's a great engine for economy / power balance.

Thanks for the info m8! I got the car for its economy more than the look. Have one question, what is DPF?

[Jase 320d]

Diesel particulate filter

Similar in theory to catalytic converter on a petrol

[pinco000]

thanks, just googled it to discover, that people are removing this filter to avoid issues. However this is not legal. Is it easy to put back on before MOT?

[DMH-01]

Originally Posted by pinco000

thanks, just googled it to discover, that people are removing this filter to avoid issues. However this is not legal. Is it easy to put back on before MOT?

The new MOT regs do include a provision that any original emissions kit must remain on the car.

However, this is a visual test and so removing the internals and refitting the empty DPF box would generally be a pass, most cars will then pass a smoke test even without the DPF in place.

[SO8]

I left my DPF in place but made sure the car had one 30 minute run or more a week if doing short journeys.

I commuted 10 miles each way (15-20 minutes) for 4 years without issue.

[russdx]

Erm just get in and drive it and remember to put diesel in that's all i do LOL

[dy63]

Originally Posted by Sensible_

I'd say...

- regular oil changes
- regular filter changes
- familiarise yourself with the DPF and invest in some sort of software that reads fault codes and can tell you when the DPF was last regenerated.
- Avoid very short trips if possible.
- Depending on exact date of production do some reading on "N47 timing chain" (don't freak out though, it's not that common)
- Enjoy! It's a great engine for economy / power balance.

what software do i need to check when my dpf was last regend?

[AlwynMike]

The BMWhat phone app will tell you when your DPF is regenerating, and you can see if soot is building up, so can give the car a good blast to get the DPF regenerating if our normal commute doesn't.

As for using a dirty diesel, don't bother revving to red-line, as it's pointless, even if in Sport mode on an Auto. 4200 to 4500rpm on the six cylinder engines is enough, anything more is just revs - change up and get into more serious torque.

As you'll be aware, diesels take much longer to warm up, so don't give it the beans straight off (oh how we need a water or oil temerature gauge!! Again, BMWhat or Torque or DashCommand will do that happily, without resorting to the "hidden menu's")

As with any turbocharged engine, let it tick over for a while before you switch it off. After a good blast, when the engine is HOT, I leave mine for as long as five minutes before switching off. Turbo's get extremely hot, and what you don't want is oil that is not circulating (because the engine is off) "cooking" inside the turbo bearings. Modern oils are more tolerant of this, and some people will say I am over cautious and old fashioned. Guilty as charged.

Your driving style on the throttle will change from petrol to diesel. Under normal driving conditions, use the torque and the turbo. Revs and diesels don't really mix.
Try to keep your revs over 1500-1800rpm when driving. Diesel engines are happier than petrol engines to run at these revs, however, the dual mass flywheels fitted to modern diesels are a weak point whoever the manufacturer is. Keeping the revs above these speeds will have the flywheels "locked up" and less prone to failure at higher mileages - assuming you're keeping the car (or keeping the car in good nick for successive owners - like I do!). Assuming a manual gearbox, don't be concerned about fuel economy at lower speeds in higher gears. My brother did some comparisons at 50mph, and the fuel consumption over the same (long) route in similar conditions was almost identical irrespective of whether he was in 4th, 5th or 6th gear. It was a Jaguar (read Ford) engine though.

I consider both the diesel engine and the Sat Nav to be inventions of the devil - but I can't do without either

Mike

[Jase 320d]

When cooling down 5minutes is extremely excessive. Just drive normal for the last minute or so of driving then a 5 second tickover once stopped is enough

[AlwynMike]

Originally Posted by Jase 320d

When cooling down 5minutes is extremely excessive. Just drive normal for the last minute or so of driving then a 5 second tickover once stopped is enough

5 minutes may be over the top, yes.
Old habits die hard - most of my driving used to be a 410 mile (one way, non-stop) commute, with only about 5 miles of single carriage way - the rest was dual or motorway, this coupled with the fact it was usually done late at night/early morning meant that I did have quite a warm engine.

I suppose most people live in what I would consider a built up area, so they are, of necessity, driving slower. Living in the wilds of Shropshire (!) I can be at relatively high speed within a few yards of my house.

As we all know, forums are always good at showing the worst and most unreliable parts of our cars - there will be tens of thousands of diesel drivers who don't give a hoot about cooling down, warming up or generally having mechanical sympathy with their cars, and most of them get away with no issues whatsoever.

Russdx's comment is probably the most valid, real world piece of advice

Mike

[pinco000]

Originally Posted by russdx

Erm just get in and drive it and remember to put diesel in that's all i do LOL

Best answer ever

[acerboo]

don't rev the nuts off it, no need to. let the torque do the work

[Jase 320d]

Originally Posted by AlwynMike

5 minutes may be over the top, yes.
Old habits die hard - most of my driving used to be a 410 mile (one way, non-stop) commute, with only about 5 miles of single carriage way - the rest was dual or motorway, this coupled with the fact it was usually done late at night/early morning meant that I did have quite a warm engine.

I suppose most people live in what I would consider a built up area, so they are, of necessity, driving slower. Living in the wilds of Shropshire (!) I can be at relatively high speed within a few yards of my house.

As we all know, forums are always good at showing the worst and most unreliable parts of our cars - there will be tens of thousands of diesel drivers who don't give a hoot about cooling down, warming up or generally having mechanical sympathy with their cars, and most of them get away with no issues whatsoever.

Russdx's comment is probably the most valid, real world piece of advice

Mike

In example my works van

1.6hdi berlingo

Flat out from cold with no cooling down period.

Been good so far. If turbo explodes i'll go to tesco buy a hairdrier for a tenner and swap the dead turbo out

[AlwynMike]

Originally Posted by Jase 320d

In example my works van

If turbo explodes i'll go to tesco buy a hairdrier for a tenner and swap the dead turbo out

Or go a step further and be like Nick Mann who used a Helicopter engine to provide boost for his 1700cc BDA hill climb car. It was quick!

[PJJD]

As Sensible mentioned above, regular oil and filter changes. Oil and filters should be changed approximately every 7k. Ignore that Condition Based Service nonsense.

[DaveCR]

Guys Im selling my truck to buy my first bimmer, Im after a e90 320d lci 2009, I have read about turbo issues and timing chains (although I think the 2009 may be off danger because of the model, fingers crossed)

I took the car for s test drive, it's an automatic, and it feels great.. It's the first diesel car (not truck) that I drive and I was amazed of the torque .. It can really go fast very quickly, loved that

My question is, if something goes bad with the turbo, how expensive the parts are? Is it just a matter of getting a new turbo? Or a lot of things will break?

When I read in this post about not getting a temperature reader I didn't notice that and you are right. How would I know if there's something wrong with that and what are the usual problems with the cooling system?

Thermostat, water pump, are those too expensive?

Thank you for reading!

[Monger007]

Originally Posted by Sensible_

I'd say...

- regular oil changes
- regular filter changes
- familiarise yourself with the DPF and invest in some sort of software that reads fault codes and can tell you when the DPF was last regenerated.
- Avoid very short trips if possible.
- Depending on exact date of production do some reading on "N47 timing chain" (don't freak out though, it's not that common)
- Enjoy! It's a great engine for economy / power balance.

I am interested why one needs to avoid short trips ?