[Precision Engineered]

Hi All,

Currently going through the Logic 7 Retro fit process on my 330D E92 with CIC I drive. I have the OEM Logic 7 Wiring harness but not too sure where the amp gets its power from?

From the wiring diagram below I understand the Positive power wire is Red & Grey but I'm not 100% sure where this is supposed to run to from the harness on the amp. Also when I've wired amps in the past they normally need a remote start, is this not the case with the Logic 7 i.e the power wire is some how connected in with the CIC system? The power wire seems as long as the front dash speaker wire so I assume it wires in somewhere round there. Can anyone with logic 7 confirm?

[Precision Engineered]

No-one knows?

[WilliamS]

There isnt a remote source back there, the amp is part of the most loop which fires up the amp. There is a remote source in the dash but none at the amp. I used a line out converter that creates a remote on from the input signal.

[Precision Engineered]

Originally Posted by WilliamS

There isnt a remote source back there, the amp is part of the most loop which fires up the amp. There is a remote source in the dash but none at the amp. I used a line out converter that creates a remote on from the input signal.

Cheers for the info bud, the question still stands of where the Logic 7 power cable runs to though?

[WilliamS]

red wire with silver stripe is the constant power, solid brown is ground

[Precision Engineered]

Originally Posted by WilliamS

red wire with silver stripe is the constant power, solid brown is ground

That is correct, however I assume this (power wire) wires into something towards the front of the car given the length of the wire? What I'm trying to find out is where this wire connects into.

[ptpending]

main fuse box behind glovebox, but thru passthru connector near foorwell module
because it is much harder to extract all cable to fusebox and car breaker remove such cable only to passthru connector X1716
http://etk.bmwsar.ru/zi_images/GREO_E87_61_0016.png

[Precision Engineered]

Originally Posted by ptpending

main fuse box behind glovebox, but thru passthru connector near foorwell module
because it is much harder to extract all cable to fusebox and car breaker remove such cable only to passthru connector X1716
http://etk.bmwsar.ru/zi_images/GREO_E87_61_0016.png

Many thanks for the info. Is this on the passenger side of a UK car? Just to check as the diagram appears to be for a LHD car, UK is RHD

[WilliamS]

That I do not know, its on the rear left of my car in the states.

[jammy78]

What you need to do..... connect straight to the battery.

You don't neeed to worry about a remote as the fibre optic takes care of this!

The easiest way.... what I was going to do:

> red to the battery (add a inline fuse)
> brown to a earth
> run wires to the rear shelf speakers
> run remaining wires to the front of the car (going down the passenger side - connect the rear side panel speaker.

> remove the speaker wires that plug into the Hu or CIC. Then plug them into a connector.... Run the wires to this connector ='done,
> you'll be left with the centre speaker wire, which you plug into the speaker

This way, you don't need to run the wires to each speaker, as this is already done for you (back of the hu)

Simples

[Precision Engineered]

Originally Posted by jammy78

What you need to do..... connect straight to the battery.

You don't neeed to worry about a remote as the fibre optic takes care of this!

The easiest way.... what I was going to do:

> red to the battery (add a inline fuse)
> brown to a earth
> run wires to the rear shelf speakers
> run remaining wires to the front of the car (going down the passenger side - connect the rear side panel speaker.

> remove the speaker wires that plug into the Hu or CIC. Then plug them into a connector.... Run the wires to this connector ='done,
> you'll be left with the centre speaker wire, which you plug into the speaker

This way, you don't need to run the wires to each speaker, as this is already done for you (back of the hu)

Simples

Cheers bud, managed to get some info from another thread so sussed out where the fuse is etc, might do what you've mentioned though and run off the battery if I can pull the wire back through without having to remove the back seats again etc. already run all the wires to the speakers bar the front doors and centre dash. Probably gonna splice into the existing speaker wires for the doors and connect that way.

Have you coded logic 7 before? If so, curious which module and setting I need to change, or is it the vehicle order I change?

[jammy78]

Originally Posted by Precision Engineered

Cheers bud, managed to get some info from another thread so sussed out where the fuse is etc, might do what you've mentioned though and run off the battery if I can pull the wire back through without having to remove the back seats again etc. already run all the wires to the speakers bar the front doors and centre dash. Probably gonna splice into the existing speaker wires for the doors and connect that way.

Have you coded logic 7 before? If so, curious which module and setting I need to change, or is it the vehicle order I change?

Yep, that was the other way.... splicing

What have you got CIC?

[Precision Engineered]

Originally Posted by jammy78

Yep, that was the other way.... splicing

What have you got CIC?

CIC, 2008 E92 330D (245)

Got NCSExpert etc. installed just waiting for the USB adaptor to arrive. Not coded before though so would rather just go in and change the Logic 7 bit without changing anything else. Got BMWhat app for coding other bits such as lights etc.

[jammy78]

Originally Posted by Precision Engineered

CIC, 2008 E92 330D (245)

Got NCSExpert etc. installed just waiting for the USB adaptor to arrive. Not coded before though so would rather just go in and change the Logic 7 bit without changing anything else. Got BMWhat app for coding other bits such as lights etc.

Very easy.... read the CIC module - open the file & change Stereo to top_hifi

[ptpending]

Originally Posted by Precision Engineered

Many thanks for the info. Is this on the passenger side of a UK car? Just to check as the diagram appears to be for a LHD car, UK is RHD

it is on the left side int RHD car too because amplifier is on the left side in RHD car too, due the reason that main power cable goes on the right side.

[Precision Engineered]

Originally Posted by jammy78

Very easy.... read the CIC module - open the file & change Stereo to top_hifi

Cheers bud, hopefully this will be straight forward and the CIC module is actually called "CIC" ? If not I probs need some pointers

Originally Posted by ptpending

it is on the left side int RHD car too because amplifier is on the left side in RHD car too, due the reason that main power cable goes on the right side.

hoping I can just tap into X1716 and I don't need to then run a cable from X1716 to the fuse box

[awt]

Did you manage to tap into the X1716 connection? For me it seems like all the carpets need to be removed, which is a pain in the ass. I think it may be easier to connect it straight to the fuse, at least in a LHD car.

[Precision Engineered]

Originally Posted by awt

Did you manage to tap into the X1716 connection? For me it seems like all the carpets need to be removed, which is a pain in the ass. I think it may be easier to connect it straight to the fuse, at least in a LHD car.

I didn't, when I pulled the carpet back it looked as though the X1716 was a bit like a joint for an extension lead. I could have run the wire from the amp to it but would then have had to run a cable from the X1716 to the fuse box specifically for the amp. Assume that last bit is fitted as part of the Logic 7 at the BMW factory. In the end I just wired it straight to the battery terminal in the boot with an in line fuse, works perfectly fine

[awt]

Thanks for the quick answer.

I just went out for a look, and finally located the X1716. I was missing the lead from the fuse as well, so no luck using that one. I also removed everything around the fuse compartment, but it's impossible to connect anything there without taking the hole dash apart.

I may use something called a fuse tap kit, or I go the same route as you did. If you take a look into the WDS the amp doesn't get any power as long as the car is locked with the OEM solution, but if you connect it straight to the battery, then it's powered up all the time. Have you noticed any problems regarding this? Have you had the car sitting still for like a week or three?

[Precision Engineered]

Originally Posted by awt

Thanks for the quick answer.

I just went out for a look, and finally located the X1716. I was missing the lead from the fuse as well, so no luck using that one. I also removed everything around the fuse compartment, but it's impossible to connect anything there without taking the hole dash apart.

I may use something called a fuse tap kit, or I go the same route as you did. If you take a look into the WDS the amp doesn't get any power as long as the car is locked with the OEM solution, but if you connect it straight to the battery, then it's powered up all the time. Have you noticed any problems regarding this? Have you had the car sitting still for like a week or three?

Hi,

no problem - happy to help. The issue of the amp draining the battery due to being on all the time did cross my mind however I'm under the impression the amp is effectively in standby when not instructed to do anything by the head unit over the MOST bus (fibre optic) and so doesn't really drain any power. I've had my car stood for 3 whole days and didn't get any battery low errors when first starting it after those 3 days so I assume all is good, never tried leaving it for weeks. Mine is the 330D so guessing the battery must be pretty beefy anyway to be able to turn over a cold 3 litre diesel engine. The L7 upgrade was well worth it and I may write a short review soon

[awt]

My car often stays for at least two weeks and sometimes three at an airport, so I need to be sure that the amp doesn't drain the battery while I'm away, as I need the car to get back home.

I could of course disconnect it or make a switch, or wire up a relay connected to the rear lights or something but that feels a bit "low end", so I'd rather not.

I have all the parts needed, and I have already mounted the tweeters and mid range elements in the doors. I'm really looking forward to get this up and running.

[Precision Engineered]

Originally Posted by awt

My car often stays for at least two weeks and sometimes three at an airport, so I need to be sure that the amp doesn't drain the battery while I'm away, as I need the car to get back home.

I could of course disconnect it or make a switch, or wire up a relay connected to the rear lights or something but that feels a bit "low end", so I'd rather not.

I have all the parts needed, and I have already mounted the tweeters and mid range elements in the doors. I'm really looking forward to get this up and running.

The switch is the easiest thing although there's supposedly a wire behind the drivers side rear corner bolster / rear door card that only gets power when the car is unlocked so could technically be used for a relay, you'd have to do some digging to check exactly which wire though.

re: wiring, cutting into the splices near the front door sills was a bit of a pain but I can confirm it does work. Also don't forget about coding, I had to get mine done professionally as the kit I'd have had to buy to do it properly was significantly more than the cost of coding plus there was the risk of me screwing it up. The subs really are the main drivers for this setup, mids and tweeters are a bit like backfill for the subs.