[RideForeign]

So I bought a kit of 8000k his fog lights. Installed them with 2 capacitors and after a minute or so they shut off and I get a warning light on my dash.

Did I install them wrong or do I need to remove the capacitors?

I paid 50$ at a local shop at a car show instead of the regular 100$ I forgot the brand tho I threw the box out but I heard they are reliable

[KiX1911]

I have found that most of those caps dont work (I actually havent found one that works lol) and I have only found one set of HID's that dont give an error or dont shut off after a minute. I could go tomorrow out and see what the name is, but I have at least 5 sets of HID's and about 4 sets of capacitors that are "BMW CANBUS ERROR FREE" that are BS

B

[specialist]

I have the same problem

[playground]

I had this problem before on my 325i, had it coded so that the car can natively run the HID kit without any error cancellers. It was a direct plug and play after. Like running xenon spec on the foglight lines.
The guy who does it is a coder on the forum but I won't mention the name, if you want to know just drop me a pm. I'll forward his information over.

[specialist]

I bought different ballests for the car now it works great

[TOPEC]

u guys r confusing a few things here, first the capacitor is used to fix issues where the power source fluctuates on and off continuously between 12V n 0V when on, this pulsation would cause HIDs to flicker on and off. in the case of BMWs, i dont think the fog lights uses this kind of power source, so the cap is useless. secondly, the reason y the HIDs in fog lights turn on and then stay off is due to the car's ecu seeing less power draw. remember the fog lights were made for halogen bulbs n the circuit is supposed to see X amount of power draw, with HIDs drawing less power than halogens, the ecu thinks there is a burnt bulb there so it cuts power to that socket. so fix this, u'll either have to code the car manually to have 12V on constantly to the fog lights, or use "can-bus approved" ballasts that fools the ecu into supplying constant power. the cheaper way to combat this problem besides buying another pair of ballasts is to install a "load resistor" in parallel to the 12V power source. this causes more draw on circuit "tricking" the ecu into thinking everything is fine so it wont cut power to the HID bulbs. but beware where u place the load resistor as what it essentially does is draw more power and turns it into heat.

[playground]

Originally Posted by TOPEC

u guys r confusing a few things here, first the capacitor is used to fix issues where the power source fluctuates on and off continuously between 12V n 0V when on, this pulsation would cause HIDs to flicker on and off. in the case of BMWs, i dont think the fog lights uses this kind of power source, so the cap is useless. secondly, the reason y the HIDs in fog lights turn on and then stay off is due to the car's ecu seeing less power draw. remember the fog lights were made for halogen bulbs n the circuit is supposed to see X amount of power draw, with HIDs drawing less power than halogens, the ecu thinks there is a burnt bulb there so it cuts power to that socket. so fix this, u'll either have to code the car manually to have 12V on constantly to the fog lights, or use "can-bus approved" ballasts that fools the ecu into supplying constant power. the cheaper way to combat this problem besides buying another pair of ballasts is to install a "load resistor" in parallel to the 12V power source. this causes more draw on circuit "tricking" the ecu into thinking everything is fine so it wont cut power to the HID bulbs. but beware where u place the load resistor as what it essentially does is draw more power and turns it into heat.

Yeah that's what my coder mentioned to me, having the power lines recoded for HID/Xenon (True 35W) mode is what he did. So that the fogs were direct plug and play. Capacitors will only burn out the car's light module.