[Smonkey09]

My brain is overloaded after reading the entire DPF delete thread of 1000+ posts, the wastegate options thread, and after having a nice conversation with 2deer this weekend.

Now that my CBU is finally fixed, I am back in love with my D and don't want to get rid of it for years. However, I do want to keep it running clean going forward and avoid issues with the EGR, DPF, and SCR down the line.

I blocked off the EGR kit with plugs from iaknown, and I have a down pipe ready to install from Jess. I plan to pull my ECU next weekend (3/21) and send to JR for tune, as well as install the down pipe and a devils own meth kit at the same time.

I thought that would be it, but now I see that other folks had issues with SCR cats getting plugged. So I'm concerned about that. And I see that if I do something with the SCR cat, I'll likely have an overboost issue.

So I'm a little overwhelmed.

Here is what I'm thinking (remember EGR is already plugged):

1) Install the meth kit with 630ml nozzle
2) Install down pipe
3) Go with Jarek's stage 1 tune with spiderboot and alphabet delete.
4) Don't mess with SCR cat or mixer - basically leave everything behind down pipe alone.

Do you think I'll be ok? Or is it inevitable that the SCR cat will clog without the DPF? Do I have some time (like a year or so - drive about 35 miles mixed city/hwy per day) before SCR becomes an issue so I can find someone in Chicago (a paid someone) who can help me with SCR cat removal & wastegate modification? Or, are both of these really not such a big deal and if I can successfully install meth kit and down pipe I'll be okay to deal with SCR cat and wastegate on my own?

Brain frying. Information overload. I'm going to leave computer now and lovingly wash the 335d and i3 (don't judge) to give brain a break.

[Yozh]

Yeah, I feel sorry for anyone trying to learn what to with these cars by reading all the past posts. Have a beer while you are washing your cars.

If I were you, I would port the wastegate as you are removing the DPF and installing the downpipe. This way you would not have to look there again (read: will not have to remove the downpipe again) and if you install everything correctly and tighten everything right, you will not have any exhaust leaks. At the same time, you do not have to leave the SCR mixer in place either.

It is questionable whether your SCR will plug up with just soot. I had a problem with the plugged SCR because I was still spraying urea that my previous tune did not take care of. As such, urea mist mixed with soot contributed to some very undesirable results after many miles. Soot alone may not produce these results. You should be good for a while. However, you should monitor your exhaust back pressure to make sure you are safe.

[shnaggs]

I would like to know also. I don't have a D yet, but am trying to grasp all of this info before I finally own one.
Smonkey, I think all you need to make sure, is that there is some restriction after the dpf. Whether that's with the scr, or something else you can put in its place. like a muffler or high flow cat

[shnaggs]

Damn, yozh beat me to the punch, but had more knowledgeable answers for you anyways.

[iaknown]

As Yozh said.....port the wastegate while you do the downpipe. Just doesn't make sense to do the exact same job (almost) twice.

SCR will definitely clog up in time. In addition to Yozh I know of 2 others who were not spraying urea that found their's clogged not too long after....

[Smonkey09]

Originally Posted by iaknown

As Yozh said.....port the wastegate while you do the downpipe. Just doesn't make sense to do the exact same job (almost) twice.

Given you, 2deer, and Yozh all told me to do the wastegate, I'd be a moron not to do it.

I don't have an air compressor, which I understand is what drives most die grinders. Can I get away with using a dremel with the right tip in order to make clearance to open the flapper all the way in order to insert the reamer?

I plan to stop by Harbor Freight today to pick up a set of reamers, micrometers, and a t handle for the reamers. Anything else I'll need to do the wastegate (besides the correct dremel bit)?

Originally Posted by iaknown

SCR will definitely clog up in time. In addition to Yozh I know of 2 others who were not spraying urea that found their's clogged not too long after....

What's a good alternative to the SCR cat? I don't want to run completely open...I feel a little bad for planning to remove the DPF already, and I feel like I should leave SOMETHING emissions-related on. I assume any exhaust work behind the downpipe will need to be done at a shop, given I have no welding experience, right?

[Puerto Rican 335d]

Smonkey are you in one those states that regulates annual inspections if not get rid of the scr. I got rid of everything down here Lenny did my coding out but if you live near JR then go for it he's closer to you. The urea clogged the metering area and i posted pics on it. i have been using this product and car has more umphh and cleaner diesel smells and will help less regen and soo in your car:

http://www.steamcombustion.com/parts1.html product is superb

[iaknown]

Originally Posted by Smonkey09

Given you, 2deer, and Yozh all told me to do the wastegate, I'd be a moron not to do it.

I don't have an air compressor, which I understand is what drives most die grinders. Can I get away with using a dremel with the right tip in order to make clearance to open the flapper all the way in order to insert the reamer?

I plan to stop by Harbor Freight today to pick up a set of reamers, micrometers, and a t handle for the reamers. Anything else I'll need to do the wastegate (besides the correct dremel bit)?



What's a good alternative to the SCR cat? I don't want to run completely open...I feel a little bad for planning to remove the DPF already, and I feel like I should leave SOMETHING emissions-related on. I assume any exhaust work behind the downpipe will need to be done at a shop, given I have no welding experience, right?

I suppose you could use a dremel with a carbide bit or similar but you might be there for a long time. If you can isolate right where the flapper is hitting and needs to be clearanced it will save you some time.

Not sure if HF will have the reamers I specified in the other thread, you may have to order them online. Instead of a T-handle and micrometer (not sure why you chose that), get a cheap 1/2" drill for the reamers. You'll be there all day doing it by hand. Get some cutting oil too.

As far as the SCR, you could always run it until it clogs. Then yea, you'll probably need an exhaust shop to step in and make a section to replace it. I am having full downpipe-back exhausts made for our cars but the manufacturer is taking forever. I am hoping by summer we will have something. That should be a complete solution for everyone in your position.

[Smonkey09]

Originally Posted by iaknown

Not sure if HF will have the reamers I specified in the other thread, you may have to order them online. Instead of a T-handle and micrometer (not sure why you chose that), get a cheap 1/2" drill for the reamers. You'll be there all day doing it by hand. Get some cutting oil too.

Chose it because adjustable reamers are the only kinds sold at Harbor Freight and I wanted to pick them up rather than order online. But I shall take your advice and order the reamers you specified in the other tread. Hopefully I can still get them all for $50. [Update - Yes, still can get them all for under $50 at buydrillbits.com.] And I'll plan to use my 1/2 drill. Wanted to try to do it by hand because TERRIFIED OF SHI**ING THE BED and screwing up expensive turbo.

Sounding like this will take more than a weekend to complete for a guy with my skills...

Originally Posted by iaknown

I am having full downpipe-back exhausts made for our cars but the manufacturer is taking forever. I am hoping by summer we will have something. That should be a complete solution for everyone in your position.

Welding required or bolt on/exhaust clamps?