[mankytron]

Had my 2007 e92 off the road for the winter and sitting outside. Car was started a few months back with no issues. Thought I would get it going today and take it for a spin since the snow is nearly gone. Battery was dead flat. Charged the battery and when it is hooked up the water pump runs continuously, wipers run continuously, and car cranks but will not start. I can hear the fuel pump run. I tried scanning the car but code reader will not communicate. Is there anyone who can repair DMEs or recode a used one or am I stuck going back to BMW for a fleecing?

[FrankyGTR]

a dme recode is not possible and unfortunately the repair will most likely not work if its indeed water damage.

btw how did the water get in the dme box??

i wish you luck a new dme is like 1700$ from dealer

[mankytron]

Originally Posted by FrankyGTR

a dme recode is not possible and unfortunately the repair will most likely not work if its indeed water damage.

btw how did the water get in the dme box??

i wish you luck a new dme is like 1700$ from dealer

Not sure on how water got in. I will get the car pulled in the shop and pull the dme to make sure. My drains were part plugged with leaves and the car was outside al winter...prob had a foot and a half of snow on it.

Car was running great too, and I guess I will lose my cobb if I can't unmarry it too. Gotta love electronics. Sometimes I wish for carburetors to make a comeback lol.

[Tiago@VRSF]

I'd pull the DME and verify that there's water damage. I've seen cars left outdoors in far worse wintery conditions without ever getting water in the ECU.

[mankytron]

Originally Posted by Tiago@VRSF

I'd pull the DME and verify that there's water damage. I've seen cars left outdoors in far worse wintery conditions without ever getting water in the ECU.

I hope you are right! Will try to get the dme pulled tomorrow.

[glachhman2]

Yeah check the dme, its fairly water tight

[Tiago@VRSF]

Originally Posted by glachhman2

Yeah check the dme, its fairly water tight

Even the connectors are waterproof. I find it hard to believe personally. First thing I'd try is resetting adaptations.

[David1]

They are not water proof and water around the pins coming out of the DME will seep in. Water sitting in the pin area will short circuit. So as soon as the ECU gets energized, game over.

[mankytron]

Got the car in the shop today and pulled the dme....not good. The plastic box was damp/wet inside, there was a small amount of water visible on the bottom and connectors and wires had moisture on them. Pulled the plugs on the dme on found moisture around some pins, corrosion, and one pin corroded away altogether. Opened up the dme and the boards look ok to me though I am no expert. I am going to try and solder a jumper wire at the corroded pin and see what happens...I got nothing to lose. I suspect the board and or components may have been shorted anyways.

The location of the dme is piss poor. Right below the windshield and right beside the drains...its like building your house under a waterfall and never expecting leaks. Its also close to the turbos and exhaust manifold which would cause extreme heat cycling and condensation in the "sealed" "protected" dme encloser.

[David1]

If the connectors were weather pack connectors all would have been good. Time for a new DME and harness. Hopefully BMW sells a repair harness in sections. There is probably water in the car also and the DME box fan might be fried also.

[mankytron]

Originally Posted by David1

If the connectors were weather pack connectors all would have been good. Time for a new DME and harness. Hopefully BMW sells a repair harness in sections. There is probably water in the car also and the DME box fan might be fried also.

All would be better if they could have put this thing inside the car safe under the dash...common sense and german engineering don't mix.

I am going to try to jump the bad connector. It would be nice if it would power up and I could unmarry my cobb.

I did not see any water inside the car, but did not look that close. Is the dme box fan right on one of the boards...I did not see anything external.

[///Mposter]

Don't cut or solder the pins . Buy a couple of these and clean them on both the DME side and harness side. Also wipe the board dry and use a blow dryer to dry it out before hooking it back up and putting power to it.

http://www.amazon.com/CAIG-DeOxit-Cl.../dp/B0002BBV4G

[drewnel22]

Originally Posted by mankytron

All would be better if they could have put this thing inside the car safe under the dash...common sense and german engineering don't mix.

I am going to try to jump the bad connector. It would be nice if it would power up and I could unmarry my cobb.

I did not see any water inside the car, but did not look that close. Is the dme box fan right on one of the boards...I did not see anything external.

Did you leave the box open? I know many people that don't have a garage and don't have any issues. As others have said the box is waterproof as long as its sealed properly.

[mike@x-ph.com]

You either did not lock it properly, or if you have never opened the ECU box then it is the previous owner.

[mankytron]

Originally Posted by 10splaya22

Did you leave the box open? I know many people that don't have a garage and don't have any issues. As others have said the box is waterproof as long as its sealed properly.

Box was never opened since I have had the car, which is only a year.

[mankytron]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

You either did not lock it properly, or if you have never opened the ECU box then it is the previous owner.

I have never had it open, and when I removed it both locks were in place and the tabs at the other sides of the box were latched. It was seated properly.

[mankytron]

I have since jumped the bad connector with a wire and the car runs, I can communicate with the dme with the code reader. I unmarryed my cobb successfully. Car seems to run fine however the engine light is on due to some dme codes that I can't remember off hand. I may try to solder the jumper wire on the board so I can drive the car and see how it runs. Called Bmw and a new dme is 1940.00 plus 3 hours programing at about 400.00. The dme is in Germany and take at leats 2 weeks.

I believe the damage I have suffered is perhaps not due to a large influx of water but small amounts over time (the car is a 2007), and condensation in the plastic "sealed" box.

[FrankyGTR]

damn that sucks op..i had my box open many many times and ran with out a cowl and never had an issue

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by mankytron

I have never had it open, and when I removed it both locks were in place and the tabs at the other sides of the box were latched. It was seated properly.

So how would water get in the box if it was sealed properly ?

[mankytron]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

So how would water get in the box if it was sealed properly ?

I am actually betting most of it water was from condensation, but that's a guess. I realize the box is "sealed", but I would guess not 100% water tight after years of heat cycling on the rubber seals and grommets. Hell BMW in their infinite wisdom even put a drain in the bottom of the box...so that has to say something about how waterproof it is. I compare this to "sealed" bearing which under perfect conditions probably last a long time, but factor in cold, freezing, hot, dust, dirt, etc they all fail prematurely.

Also the connection in question must be some kind of power wire, which with corrosion would heat up and weaken the steel connector causing it to break. Most if not all the other connectors are in fine shape.

[FrankyGTR]

Originally Posted by mankytron

I am actually betting most of it water was from condensation, but that's a guess. I realize the box is "sealed", but I would guess not 100% water tight after years of heat cycling on the rubber seals and grommets. Hell BMW in their infinite wisdom even put a drain in the bottom of the box...so that has to say something about how waterproof it is. I compare this to "sealed" bearing which under perfect conditions probably last a long time, but factor in cold, freezing, hot, dust, dirt, etc they all fail prematurely.

Also the connection in question must be some kind of power wire, which with corrosion would heat up and weaken the steel connector causing it to break. Most if not all the other connectors are in fine shape.

the whole on the bottom is for air not water evacuation

[mankytron]

Originally Posted by FrankyGTR

the whole on the bottom is for air not water evacuation

I stand corrected. There also looks to be a hole (air?) going into the firewall area. Is that for some kind of air circulation?