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Power inverter hardwired to battery
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04-16-2015, 11:32 AM | #1 |
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Power inverter hardwired to battery
Hey guys,
I'm looking to hardwire a 300w PW to my battery to run a car pc. http://www.amazon.com/BESTEKŪ-Outlet...+inverter+300w I would like to connect the wires directly to the battery terminals, not the lighter. Questions / Concerns Will the inverter's parasitic draw drain the battery when the car is off (I drive the car once a week)? I would mount in the inverter in the trunk, and run the video out to the Navtool, installed in the dash. What is the recommended way to ensure the inverter turns off with the car? Just need a little advice here since this is my first experience with power inverters. thanks |
04-16-2015, 12:30 PM | #2 |
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If you want it to turn off with the car, why not find the appropriate fuse and tap an available fuse from the box in the glove compartment?
At least this way, you'd keep the built in protections in the circuitry. |
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04-16-2015, 12:41 PM | #3 | |
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04-16-2015, 01:21 PM | #4 |
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Honestly, I have no idea what kind of power draw you're looking at.
Just pull out the fuse box chart and see what available fuses you have and see if any of their amps match what you're looking to get for the inverter. And yeah, a fuse tap of some sort was what I was thinking. |
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04-16-2015, 05:17 PM | #5 |
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Use a small relay.
Wire the relay to something that turns on when the ignition turns on. The relay will connect the hot lead you want. Relay will have 4 connections. Two to energize the relay, the other two to connect/break the voltage going to the inverter.
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04-17-2015, 10:15 AM | #6 |
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You should research the PC's power supply before you do this. Chances are you are installing an inverter to go from the car's DC to AC just to go back to DC via the computer's power supply/charger. PC's and mobile devices typically take either 12v or 5v DC via an internal power supply or wall wart. Adding an inverter when you have DC available just adds another potential point of noise (video included) and failure.
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04-17-2015, 10:23 AM | #7 | |
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04-17-2015, 11:53 AM | #8 | |
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This? http://www.amazon.com/Generic-Conver.../dp/B00DR4HQQ2 Last edited by StatenEye; 04-17-2015 at 12:00 PM.. |
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04-17-2015, 12:03 PM | #9 | |
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If the external power supply provides the device 12 volts, then just omit the power supply and wire the device directly to the batter fused for the appropriate amount of current it will draw with the appropriately sized wire. If it is something like a tablet that takes 5 volts, a simple buck converter can be used to step-down 12 volts to the required 5 volts so long as its rated to provide the current the device demands and then some. |
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04-17-2015, 12:06 PM | #10 | |
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04-17-2015, 05:05 PM | #11 |
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I don't quite get why you need a 300w inverter for a car PC.. are you trying to install a desktop tower in your trunk?..
Figure out what hardware you're using for the PC first, you can do just about everything with a tablet and a USB hub. |
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04-20-2015, 11:04 AM | #12 | |
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http://www.zotac.com/products/mini-p...fications.html Tablet is also an option but I want to give the PC with a Apple Magic Touch pad a shot. |
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04-20-2015, 11:07 AM | #13 | |
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This weekend I installed a wireless mirroring device to the Naviks input but the video was choppy at times and constantly fuzzy. Not sure if i have a weak ground but the quality is not what I expected. The System screen for the mirroring device was acceptable quality but when i began to mirror to the idrive the quality dropped. |
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04-20-2015, 03:16 PM | #14 |
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I have had good results with Pololu converters.
https://www.pololu.com/category/84/r...power-supplies I usually go for the least complicated device that will get the job done, especially if its audio-related, so the meters are overkill for me personally. |
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04-20-2015, 04:19 PM | #15 |
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Ok if anyones interested. I'm installing 2 fuse taps into two buck connectors - one step to 19v and one step down to 5v. Step up goes to the Zotac PC and the Step Down to a HDMI to RCA converter. Well see how it goes.
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04-20-2015, 04:21 PM | #16 | |
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