[dauble2k5]

Hey guys,

New to the E90 world, but have been on E46Fanatics a while. I'm looking at a 2011 E92 335i and have been reading up on the engine ticking sound and how it "could" be the lifters, but is most likely nothing.

TL;DR - slight engine tick. Normal?

Upon driving it, it drives amazingly well. Steering's heavier than the E46, however it's firm. Suspension feels stiff and good, seats provide support in the right areas. After a 10 minute test drive, I came back and started inspecting the car a little closer and noticed the engine tick was still there. It's not too noticeable outside the car, but once you pop the hood, you can definitely hear something. It seems to be coming from the back of the engine on the passenger side. You can't hear it inside the car, or from maybe five feet away. Car has 57,7xx miles and had VANOS recall performed just before the warranty expired at 50k.

I've done quite a bit of searching and have found just about everyone has this issue, but want to know if it's something major, like needing to have new coils, maybe the lifter issue, or something I shouldn't worry about. Since I'm new to this chassis and engine, I want to get your guy's opinions.

Here's the video:

What do you guys think - should I be concerned with this sound?

[Andrew3424]

Nothing to worry about they all do it some just more then others urs sounds normal

[dauble2k5]

Cool, that's kinda what I'm thinking. What is it, the mechanical lifters not being lubricated well until the oil's warm, part of the direct injection? I know the F30 engines are kinda noisy and clicky like this, I'm just intrigued.

[Douche]

It sounds like my F25.
It's likely the injectors that are very noisy when the engine is cold (they open more because of the engine being cold).

Lubrication has nothing to do with injectors. And it doesn't sound like valve lifters. Does the noise increase in rhythm or volume when you make the engine run faster (i.e. Accelerate)? If it doesn't, it's not the lifters.

[dauble2k5]

Originally Posted by Douche

It sounds like my F25.
It's likely the injectors that are very noisy when the engine is cold (they open more because of the engine being cold).

Lubrication has nothing to do with injectors. And it doesn't sound like valve lifters. Does the noise increase in rhythm or volume when you make the engine run faster (i.e. Accelerate)? If it doesn't, it's not the lifters.

I didn't notice any noises getting louder under load. I had the windows up and was focusing on the gearbox and listening for suspension rattles/wheel rubbing since it's on 19s, but didn't hear anything. I got on it a couple of times, bringing the revs up to 4k and all seemed well.

I'll be driving it again Friday evening and will be listening for sounds under load.

The car is pristine, inside and out. The wheels are almost perfect, and the engine bag is pretty much spotless as you can tell. The previous owner had to have taken great care for it.

[Douche]

Originally Posted by dauble2k5

I didn't notice any noises getting louder under load. I had the windows up and was focusing on the gearbox and listening for suspension rattles/wheel rubbing since it's on 19s, but didn't hear anything. I got on it a couple of times, bringing the revs up to 4k and all seemed well.

I'll be driving it again Friday evening and will be listening for sounds under load.

The car is pristine, inside and out. The wheels are almost perfect, and the engine bag is pretty much spotless as you can tell. The previous owner had to have taken great care for it.

You don't have to be driving. It is actually better to accelerate without any load. Just rev it a little and see if it increases. If it doesn't, it's the normal direct injector noise while cold. You shouldn't hear the same noise when arriving home though.

as I said, this happens because when the engine is cold the engine management does not have enough input from sensors (especially from the oxygen sensors, which only work when the exhaust is hot) to adjust injection timing. So they open more times and for longer than they should. And make noise while idling.

This is why (one of the biggest reasons) cars consume more fuel in the winter.

[dauble2k5]

This is good info. Thanks! I'm going back tomorrow to make sure the future Mrs. approves, then hopefully will pick it up early next week! I'm getting excited and am coming to getting over my fears of stepping into a forced induction engine.

[YouAreMyWorld]

Sounds like mine on a cold start--normal.

Nothing to worry about and the sound goes away for the most part when the engine and its components warm up.

I tend to not hear it when I arrive back home from a commute, etc.

Also, although I'm sure you already know, you never want to just get in your car and drive off--especially when turning it on from a cold start. The computer is still adjusting and the valves are, as aforementioned, for injection timing continuously flutter as it acclimates from sensory information.

Wait at least 20 seconds, settle in, adjust your iPod or radio, and then drive off with very little load. Once you see the temperature gauge/oil warm up appropriately then you can have some fun. Don't be that guy in the morning that as soon as he gets in, drives off and accelerates to 6,000rpm down the block just to hit a stop sign. Your car will thank you.

[Douche]

Originally Posted by YouAreMyWorld

Sounds like mine on a cold start--normal.

Nothing to worry about and the sound goes away for the most part when the engine and its components warm up.

I tend to not hear it when I arrive back home from a commute, etc.

Also, although I'm sure you already know, you never want to just get in your car and drive off--especially when turning it on from a cold start. The computer is still adjusting and the valves are, as aforementioned, for injection timing continuously flutter as it acclimates from sensory information.

Wait at least 20 seconds, settle in, adjust your iPod or radio, and then drive off with very little load. Once you see the temperature gauge/oil warm up appropriately then you can have some fun. Don't be that guy in the morning that as soon as he gets in, drives off and accelerates to 6,000rpm down the block just to hit a stop sign. Your car will thank you.

Bullshit.
Don't idle. Get in, turn it on, drive off.

Don't put much load on it and don't rev it too high while the engine is cold. 20 seconds don't change that, you're just polluting, wasting money, fuel and time.
Cold engines have eccentric Pistons, tight rings and cold oil is too thick to be pumped to the appropriate and necessary flow. It'll build too much oil pressure and not get the necessary lubrication.
And the Pistons will wear out the cylinders, and the rings will not do their job.

You're kidding yourself if you think 20 seconds change that, especially in the winter.

And also, idle is the worst regime for an engine. It's just unnatural for an engine to sit at low rpm almost stalling, washing the cylinder away with fuel (contaminating the oil and removing the lubricating oil film on cylinder walls). Drive it calmly, open the throttle a bit, follow the flow on the road. That will get everything warmed much faster (not only the engine, but gearbox, differential, wheel bearing), and you take your engine to the best regime there is: out of idle.

[YouAreMyWorld]

Originally Posted by Douche

Bullshit.
Don't idle. Get in, turn it on, drive off.

Don't put much load on it and don't rev it too high while the engine is cold. 20 seconds don't change that, you're just polluting, wasting money, fuel and time.
Cold engines have eccentric Pistons, tight rings and cold oil is too thick to be pumped to the appropriate and necessary flow. It'll build too much oil pressure and not get the necessary lubrication.
And the Pistons will wear out the cylinders, and the rings will not do their job.

You're kidding yourself if you think 20 seconds change that, especially in the winter.

And also, idle is the worst regime for an engine. It's just unnatural for an engine to sit at low rpm almost stalling, washing the cylinder away with fuel (contaminating the oil and removing the lubricating oil film on cylinder walls). Drive it calmly, open the throttle a bit, follow the flow on the road. That will get everything warmed much faster (not only the engine, but gearbox, differential, wheel bearing), and you take your engine to the best regime there is: out of idle.

You have a 328i not a 335i, I'm pretty sure I know what I can and shouldn't do with my vehicle.

As it was an issue that I brought up to my own mechanic at the way my vehicle responded upon getting in and just driving off.

My car does NOT behave well and that's something that both my Indy mechanic and BMW mechanic told me. And my car is in one-hundred percent working order.

Getting in your car and just driving off would be quite possibly the most stupidest thing one can do.

So who do you think I'm going to believe? Someone over the internet or people certified to fix my specific car?

Lol please Douche, I like your antics, but I am certainly not a person to take up an argument of words with. I don't spew nonsense out of my mouth just for the sake of it.

[Douche]

Originally Posted by YouAreMyWorld

You have a 328i not a 335i, I'm pretty sure I know what I can and shouldn't do with my vehicle.

As it was an issue that I brought up to my own mechanic at the way my vehicle responded upon getting in and just driving off.

My car does NOT behave well and that's something that both my Indy mechanic and BMW mechanic told me. And my car is in one-hundred percent working order.

Getting in your car and just driving off would be quite possibly the most stupidest thing one can do.

So who do you think I'm going to believe? Someone over the internet or people certified to fix my specific car?

Lol please Douche, I like your antics, but I am certainly not a person to take up an argument of words with. I don't spew nonsense out of my mouth just for the sake of it.

HAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
First of all, I wasn't saying what you have to do with your vehicle. If I was to say something, I would say drive it off a cliff.

I was correcting the misinformation YOU spread to somebody who's not dumb and can actually learn a thing or two.

Second of all, what kind of cars I own, owned or will own is irrelevant.

Third, you wasted a bunch of time cause I couldn't get past you first paragraph of more bullshit.

[YouAreMyWorld]

Originally Posted by Douche

HAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
First of all, I wasn't saying what you have to do with your vehicle. If I was to say something, I would say drive it off a cliff.

I was correcting the misinformation YOU spread to somebody who's not dumb and can actually learn a thing or two.

Second of all, what kind of cars I own, owned or will own is irrelevant.

Third, you wasted a bunch of time cause I couldn't get past you first paragraph of more bullshit.

Anyone with sense knows that when you first start up a car, it would be wise to let the RPM's settle after a cold start.

I never once said or insinuate to let the car sit there for ten minutes and have the temperature gauge rise.

I was implying to let the car settle a little, something you may have caught if you weren't so set in your way of trying to bash my "misinformation".

And I mentioned your vehicle because if you owned a 335i you would quickly realize how the car reacts if one were to turn it on from a cold start and immediately drive off. The car will stutter a bit because you're not supposed to get in and drive off. I've experienced it and was told I can't really do that.

[Douche]

Originally Posted by YouAreMyWorld

Anyone with sense knows that when you first start up a car, it would be wise to let the RPM's settle after a cold start.

I never once said or insinuate to let the car sit there for ten minutes and have the temperature gauge rise.

I was implying to let the car settle a little, something you may have caught if you weren't so set in your way of trying to bash my "misinformation".

Ok sorry.
I apologize. It just irks me when people tell others to idle. You didn't say idle for too long, so it's not bad.

However, open any car manual, and it will say "turn it on and drive it off". Every one. If you like that sort of thing (somebody with authority to tell you something that you can't learn nor understand the reasoning behind, you looked at the title of the person/entity telling you and follow, it seems. Take the criticism in a positive way, if possible).

Maybe not your manual, cause your car is special you mentioned (sorry, I had to take this shot lol).

Again, sorry, I was overly harsh. I see people idling for 30-45 minutes where I live and I dumped the frustration on you to make a point so somebody may learn NOT to do that.

And by the way, now I understand why you were so defensive at first. I didn't see it was you on the pothole thread lol. I don't usually look at names when I'm replying. I wasn't picking on you.

[Douche]

Originally Posted by Douche

Ok sorry.
I apologize. It just irks me when people tell others to idle. You didn't say idle for too long, so it's not bad.

However, open any car manual, and it will say "turn it on and drive it off". Every one. If you like that sort of thing (somebody with authority to tell you something that you can't learn nor understand the reasoning behind, you looked at the title of the person/entity telling you and follow, it seems. Take the criticism in a positive way, if possible).

Maybe not your manual, cause your car is special you mentioned (sorry, I had to take this shot lol).

Again, sorry, I was overly harsh. I see people idling for 30-45 minutes where I live and I dumped the frustration on you to make a point so somebody may learn NOT to do that.

And by the way, now I understand why you were so defensive at first. I didn't see it was you on the pothole thread lol. I don't usually look at names when I'm replying. I wasn't picking on you.

You are right. I was set in my way, sorry. I'll go to sleep now, maybe I need it lol

[YouAreMyWorld]

Originally Posted by Douche

Ok sorry.
I apologize. It just irks me when people tell others to idle. You didn't say idle for too long, so it's not bad.

However, open any car manual, and it will say "turn it on and drive it off". Every one. If you like that sort of thing (somebody with authority to tell you something that you can't learn nor understand the reasoning behind, you looked at the title of the person/entity telling you and follow, it seems. Take the criticism in a positive way, if possible).

Maybe not your manual, cause your car is special you mentioned (sorry, I had to take this shot lol).

Again, sorry, I was overly harsh. I see people idling for 30-45 minutes where I live and I dumped the frustration on you to make a point so somebody may learn NOT to do that.

And by the way, now I understand why you were so defensive at first. I didn't see it was you on the pothole thread lol. I don't usually look at names when I'm replying. I wasn't picking on you.

Originally Posted by Douche

You are right. I was set in my way, sorry. I'll go to sleep now, maybe I need it lol

Haha, I know Douche, we can all get a bit cranky due to lack of sleep.

No offense taken at all, but I do make sure that people understand my intent and don't misconstrue what I said unless I made a grammatical error or.. forget a word.. like I did in a post I made like a week or two ago that we slightly butted heads in :P

But yes I agree, idling ones car for like 30 minutes is quite well.. to be frank.. stupid.. lmao. I would never recommend that.

[dauble2k5]

LOL wow, this escalated quickly! I got a laugh.

I've always heard it's best to let them idle for up to 30 seconds or so, or until the RPMs drop a bit. Clearly, going WOT is just idiotic until the oil/coolant temps are normal. A good friend has an RS4 that idles high for 30-45 seconds, depending on how cold the engine is and how long it's been setting. While allowing the car to idle for 10-15 minutes to warm up is garbage, I've always been under the impression it's best to let it idle until the RPMs drop. That's just what I've done the past five or so years, and at 142k miles on the E46, the engine is still solid. Different engines, different technologies yes, but same underlying principle.

Update on the E92: I'm picking up the keys on Tuesday . The future Mrs and I drove it again for a good 25-30 mins or so, which allowed the engine to be fully warm. Then, when we got back to the dealer, I had the dealer get in and rev it a few times. The sound did NOT grow when he raised the revs, so I thank you guys for your knowledge. I'm not worried about anything too major.

I also have a bluetooth OBD scanner, so hooked that up and read some numbers. On idle, is 4lbs going through the MAF about normal? i'm going to assume so, but again, I'm new to all FI engines and well, it's 11pm and I'm beat.

Anyway, thanks guys, you've been helpful and I can't wait to get it! It'll be sad to see the E46 go, knowing she was my first post-college purchase, first car to get speeding tickets, first track car, first car with a few females.. heh. She's been a great car, one that I've enjoyed every bit. But, on to new things!