Recommendations on Clutch Delay Valve (CDV) Removal for E92 XI

rzm3 · 02-08-2008, 05:38 PM

Got CDV removed today, several useful tips:

1) The original DIY http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29828 is very useful.

2) The clutch engagement definitely feels more direct

3) I would recommend having it removed at a shop because the xi bleed valve is not as accessible as the i (front axle drive shaft in the way). Therefore, without the proper tools, you wouldn't be able to finish the job.

4) Bleed process:

a) depress clutch, hold it, open valve, close it, pull clutch up with your hand (repeat a 3-4 times).

b) with valve closed, pump clutch 10 times, hold it depressed, open valve, run the fluid, close valve (repeat b 2 times)

c) clean all spills, pump clutch and check for leaks

cheers!

335xi_fun · 02-24-2008, 10:07 PM

Just did the CDV removal today on my E90 335xi. Kind of a pain because of the front driveshaft as stated above. I removed the cdv, pushed out the restrictor, and then reinstalled the cdv body. Seemed like the hose wouldn't be long enough to just remove the valve and reconnect the hose.

Was able to loosen the bleed valve using a socket, universal joint, 3" extension, and a ratchet. Since I used a socket I couldn't use a tube to keep the brake fliud off the trans and driveshaft so it was kind of a mess. There just wasn't room to get an open end wrench on the bleed valve.

While I was doing this I questioned whether it would be worth it but after driving the car with the CDV removed it was definitely worth it. It always seemed I couldn't shift the 335 6 speed smooth and it was frustrating as I have been driving manual trans cars almost exclusively for the last 7 years and to some degree all my life. No such problem now. Hard to believe that little restrictor had such a huge impact on the clutch reaction.

Dragonman4 · 02-25-2008, 07:19 AM

If I wasn't leasing my car, I'd do it. That stupid little CDV valve sometimes annoys the hell out of me. Makes me feel like I can't drive stick.

Winston Wolf · 04-05-2008, 07:46 PM

I did mine today, a 335xi E90. Not a bad job, probably an hour total of monkeying around. You need the following to get at the bleed valve: a 8-10 inch ext (1/4" Drive) a 1/4" drive knuckle and an 11mm 1/4 drive socket. I agree that you need to leave the body of the CDV in, you can just push on the orifice in the inside with a screwdriver or drill bit (slight tap may help) and the guts fall right out. It does make a difference in changing gears. I particularly notice the 2-3 and 3-4 shifts are much smoother and also the double jerk that sometimes occured from 1-2 seems to be gone. I would recommend this mod to anyone thinking about it.

OverDrive · 01-28-2009, 06:53 PM

would shops know how to do this properly?

TheRox · 11-14-2010, 06:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 335xi_fun

Just did the CDV removal today on my E90 335xi. Kind of a pain because of the front driveshaft as stated above. I removed the cdv, pushed out the restrictor, and then reinstalled the cdv body. Seemed like the hose wouldn't be long enough to just remove the valve and reconnect the hose.

Was able to loosen the bleed valve using a socket, universal joint, 3" extension, and a ratchet. Since I used a socket I couldn't use a tube to keep the brake fliud off the trans and driveshaft so it was kind of a mess. There just wasn't room to get an open end wrench on the bleed valve.

While I was doing this I questioned whether it would be worth it but after driving the car with the CDV removed it was definitely worth it. It always seemed I couldn't shift the 335 6 speed smooth and it was frustrating as I have been driving manual trans cars almost exclusively for the last 7 years and to some degree all my life. No such problem now. Hard to believe that little restrictor had such a huge impact on the clutch reaction.

Just did it on mine...best piece of advice ever for 335xi e90. Get that U-joint and its a breeze.

You need to bleed the line 10-15 times just to be sure (I did it 20x)...because with the socket...you can't really see a stream of fluid coming out.

Anyways, post-CDV removal...1-2 shifts are smoother, downshifting rev-match is way quicker. Overall a more pure driving experience, not as big a difference as I thought it might make...still insulated, but worth it.

michaeldch · 08-21-2011, 03:53 AM

I removed the CDV on my 07 335XI this evening and wanted to add my perspective in case this will help other DIY'ers.
I removed the CDV from the car having extracted/retracted both spring clips. I temporarily capped the hose leading up to the reservoir to avoid losing fluid - I chose not to clamp the rubber hydraulic line.
On a workbench with a small punch I pushed out the restrictor - seriously easy - you should not pay anybody anything for this service

I reused the modified CDV to retain the stock appearance.
As everyone else has stated, the front drive shaft is in the way and makes bleeding difficult. I used an 11mm socket on a long 1/4" drive (with a swivel joint) and a Motive Power Bleeder - this made things really easy!

I just compressed the reservoir to 15PSI, went under the car and opened and closed the bleed valve a few times. No assistant needed. It made a mess of course.

Tomorrow I will test drive the car. I did both the Redline D6 ATF gearbox oil change and the CDV so hopefully it will feel like a new car

Cheers,
Michael
07 BMW 335 XI
85 Alfa Romeo GTV6

02-08-2008, 05:38 PM	#1
rzm3 Moderator 703 Rep 4,736 Posts Drives: E92 M3 Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: USA iTrader: (18)	Recommendations on Clutch Delay Valve (CDV) Removal for E92 XI Got CDV removed today, several useful tips: 1) The original DIY http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29828 is very useful. 2) The clutch engagement definitely feels more direct 3) I would recommend having it removed at a shop because the xi bleed valve is not as accessible as the i (front axle drive shaft in the way). Therefore, without the proper tools, you wouldn't be able to finish the job. 4) Bleed process: a) depress clutch, hold it, open valve, close it, pull clutch up with your hand (repeat a 3-4 times). b) with valve closed, pump clutch 10 times, hold it depressed, open valve, run the fluid, close valve (repeat b 2 times) c) clean all spills, pump clutch and check for leaks cheers! Attached Images
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02-24-2008, 10:07 PM	#2
335xi_fun Enlisted Member 2 Rep 32 Posts Drives: 04 STI, 08 GTI, 08 E90335xi Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Colorado iTrader: (2)	Just did the CDV removal today on my E90 335xi. Kind of a pain because of the front driveshaft as stated above. I removed the cdv, pushed out the restrictor, and then reinstalled the cdv body. Seemed like the hose wouldn't be long enough to just remove the valve and reconnect the hose. Was able to loosen the bleed valve using a socket, universal joint, 3" extension, and a ratchet. Since I used a socket I couldn't use a tube to keep the brake fliud off the trans and driveshaft so it was kind of a mess. There just wasn't room to get an open end wrench on the bleed valve. While I was doing this I questioned whether it would be worth it but after driving the car with the CDV removed it was definitely worth it. It always seemed I couldn't shift the 335 6 speed smooth and it was frustrating as I have been driving manual trans cars almost exclusively for the last 7 years and to some degree all my life. No such problem now. Hard to believe that little restrictor had such a huge impact on the clutch reaction.
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02-25-2008, 07:19 AM	#3
Dragonman4 Brigadier General 95 Rep 3,709 Posts Drives: 996tt Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Tri-state iTrader: (2) Garage List 2008 335xi [0.00]	If I wasn't leasing my car, I'd do it. That stupid little CDV valve sometimes annoys the hell out of me. Makes me feel like I can't drive stick.
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04-05-2008, 07:46 PM	#4
Winston Wolf Tax Paying, Gun Toting American Veteran 15 Rep 249 Posts Drives: 335xi Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Minneapolis iTrader: (1)	I did mine today, a 335xi E90. Not a bad job, probably an hour total of monkeying around. You need the following to get at the bleed valve: a 8-10 inch ext (1/4" Drive) a 1/4" drive knuckle and an 11mm 1/4 drive socket. I agree that you need to leave the body of the CDV in, you can just push on the orifice in the inside with a screwdriver or drill bit (slight tap may help) and the guts fall right out. It does make a difference in changing gears. I particularly notice the 2-3 and 3-4 shifts are much smoother and also the double jerk that sometimes occured from 1-2 seems to be gone. I would recommend this mod to anyone thinking about it.
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01-28-2009, 06:53 PM	#5
OverDrive CHEAT TO WIN!! 155 Rep 1,347 Posts Drives: E92 M3, 718 GT4 Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Toronto iTrader: (0)	would shops know how to do this properly?
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08-21-2011, 03:53 AM	#7
michaeldch Enlisted Member 5 Rep 31 Posts Drives: 2007 335Xi Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Kenmore, WA iTrader: (0)	I removed the CDV on my 07 335XI this evening and wanted to add my perspective in case this will help other DIY'ers. I removed the CDV from the car having extracted/retracted both spring clips. I temporarily capped the hose leading up to the reservoir to avoid losing fluid - I chose not to clamp the rubber hydraulic line. On a workbench with a small punch I pushed out the restrictor - seriously easy - you should not pay anybody anything for this service I reused the modified CDV to retain the stock appearance. As everyone else has stated, the front drive shaft is in the way and makes bleeding difficult. I used an 11mm socket on a long 1/4" drive (with a swivel joint) and a Motive Power Bleeder - this made things really easy! I just compressed the reservoir to 15PSI, went under the car and opened and closed the bleed valve a few times. No assistant needed. It made a mess of course. Tomorrow I will test drive the car. I did both the Redline D6 ATF gearbox oil change and the CDV so hopefully it will feel like a new car Cheers, Michael 07 BMW 335 XI 85 Alfa Romeo GTV6
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