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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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TPMS Inactive / iDrive control knob and button not working.
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05-28-2015, 01:12 PM | #1 |
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TPMS Inactive / iDrive control knob and button not working.
This applied to my car. Long story. If you need more of an explanation PM me.
2008 335i -e90 Symptom: TPMS Malfunction / Inactive error and iDrive control knob not working. iDrive works through other inputs like voice control and steering wheel controls. Both conditions must be present for this fix to apply. CC-ID149 Resolution: Fuse # 27 ( might be other fuse location for your car but look for the TPMS icon in your diagram) is likely blown found behind glove box. Both devices are fed from same fuse. You must also determine why the fuse blew. Simply replacing the fuse will blow it again. In my case the RDC module cable bundle was shorting on a body panel sharp edge. The RDC module is found in the trunk above the battery behind the carpet and padding. I re-taped wiring bundle and rerouted cable bundle away from sharp edge which cause the short circuit. The RDC module is the module that controls the input from your 4 TPMS sensors. So if the module is not working none of your TPMS sensors will register. So before you take it to dealer and start replacing expensive modules check this out. Hope this helps!~ Last edited by cfjara; 05-28-2015 at 02:29 PM.. |
07-08-2015, 08:39 AM | #3 |
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Ok Follow-up. Any input is appreciated. So my initial assessment is still the same. The fuse is blowing however my resolution of there being a short might be in question. I've replaced the idrive controller knob and also disconnected the RDC module and the fuse still blows. It only happens when the car is initializing. If it were a hard short I would expect it to go out during normal operation of the car. Almost like a startup surge issue. My questions are as follows:
Is there anything else other than the IDrive control knob and the RDC ( TPMS module) that get fed off the same power bus in question? ( Fuse #27) ? Would a marginal main battery cause surge conditions? I've read on other posts where weird electrical things would happen with weak batteries. I've had absolutely no other issues other than Fuse 27 blowing? As a side note, the Fuse will always blow after a few days. Sometimes it will go for 4 days..sometimes for 10.So I'm puzzled as to what condition is being met when is does fail. Any ideas on next steps? Any BMW expert advice is welcomed. Thank you! |
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07-14-2015, 09:43 AM | #4 |
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im having the same issue where my tpms arent working because all 4 of my tires are saying low pressure and my idrive is screen is saying it too, at the same time my idrive controller does not work. im going to try fuse 27. and i would suggest for you to use a higher amperage fuse to maybe withstand, so it has less chance of blowing
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07-17-2015, 08:15 AM | #5 |
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Just an update.... The problem occurred again. I immediately replaced the fuse and it continuously blew. Went through 3 fuses to establish the failure was persistent. I did not touch or mess with any wiring. Let the car sit for 8 hours. Installed a new fuse and it worked for a few days until the next failure.
This tells me that it likely isn't a wiring or harness short as nothing physically moved. I believe there is a latch condition and the only thing i can surmise is that the CCC unit has a problem. I've pretty much given up hope that I can fix this and will likely take it in next week to have the CCC replaced. This is a costly repair....arg! So if anyone has any last minute things I can check out I'd appreciate it. @ Rashman94. The manual calls for a 7.5a fuse. I've typically used 10a since they are easier to come by. When i was replacing them to check the consistency of the failure I went up to 25a fuse. Using a higher rated fuse will risk me blowing something thats not broken . |
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07-18-2015, 08:40 PM | #6 |
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Took some diags during the failure .. what exactly does this mean? replace ccc?
E R R O R M E M O R Y --------------------------------------- Date: 07/18/2015 20:25:01 ECU: CCC_60 Job Status: OK Variant: CCC_60 -------------------------------------------------- ----------- RESULT: 2 error in error memory! -------------------------------------------------- ----------- A3DF deviation between SH4 clock and real-time clock Error counter: 9 Logistic counter: 39 1. Environmental sentence Mileage 114544 km VDOError e00a0001 Hex Data length 00 hex 2. Environmental sentence Mileage 114544 km VDOError e00a0001 Hex Data length 00 hex 3. Environmental sentence Mileage 114544 km VDOError e00a0001 Hex Data length 00 hex no fitting problems Symptom Fulfills test conditions Error not currently available, but already saved Error would not cause illumination of a warning light Error code: A3 DF 20 00 09 27 37 00 01 00 0A EE E0 37 E0 EE 0A 00 01 00 37 00 01 00 0A EE E0 -------------------------------------------------- ----------- A3E3 defects in the NAND flash Error counter: 1 Logistic counter: 38 Mileage 114544 km VDOError e0260001 Hex Data length 00 hex no fitting problems Symptom Fulfills test conditions Error not currently available, but already saved Error would not cause illumination of a warning light Error code: E3 A3 20 00 01 26 37 26 00 01 00 EE E0 ================================================== =========== |
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07-19-2015, 07:42 PM | #7 | |
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09-10-2015, 10:50 AM | #8 |
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So to close this issue out, turns out my first analysis was correct. I took it into the dealer and they were able to locate the short on the iDrive control knob 12V line. The short was located close to the shifter on the part of the wire that runs from the control knob to the back of the CIC. What caused the insulation to wear and eventually short the 12V is unknown. Since the repair I've had no problems and its been over 45 days. The issue would typically rear its head at least every 4-10 days.
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03-04-2021, 10:41 PM | #9 |
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@cfjara
Can you elaborate a bit on the last post ...Im having same issue ...replaced fuse #13 ...TPMS light on dash went away but now has error on CIC ....and I bought a used Idrive Controller off ebay ...but still no functionality to control CIC from Idrive controller ....is there a way to know which is the 12V line as you mentioned above .. If you don't mind ...please email me because I may miss a reply on here d.steele41@gmail.com Regards and Thanks |
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