[Kooshi3]

Hello All,

I am reaching out to the forum for help / advice / guidance on how to resolve this dreaded P30FF issue I've had forever.

I have a 2009 335I coupe and am running the Cobb tune. The issues started popping up once I installed this simultaneously with the FMIC. The vehicle will climb to 18-19lbs (Stage 2+ aggressive). of boost, but will trigger the CEL while WOT at the end of 3rd typically (sometimes 4th). Trying a less aggressive tune (stage 1, stage 1+ etc.) did not resolve the issue, with only the stock map not triggering the leak.

Prior to the tune, I had done the following relevant preventative maintenance completed: Replaced all 6 coils, all 6 spark plugs and had a Walnut blasting done

Since then, I have done the following in an attempt to resolve this:

• Replaced Lower Charge Pipe
• Upgraded Upper Charge Pipe to Stett Piece
• Replaced factory diverter valves with Forge Diverter Valves
• Replaced all vacuum lines in car to upgraded silicone lines
• Replaced vacuum cannisters to upgraded Stett Cannisters
• Replaced the boost solenoids with new ones, latest iteration from BMW
• Upgraded to RB PCV Valve
• Visually inspected the valve cover which does not appear to be cracked
• Had the vehicle smoke tested by a shop (nothing found)
• Pressure tested the vehicle yesterday using this guide: http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13114
• Replaced MAP Sensor
  
  Rear inlet started hissing at 5 PSI, had a friend push it against turbo to keep it closed. Got the system pressurized up to 12 PSI and was only hearing air come out of the Oil Cap (vented, supposed to happen?). Did not hear anywhere else, used soap and water and did not see/hear anything.

I have included data of the boost mean abs psi and requested boost PSI to show a comparison of what the DME is requested and what is being given.

A few days ago (beginning of log does not start until 3/4 through):
http://www.datazap.me/u/kooshi3/stag...5&mark=422-709

A while ago running Stage 2+ aggressive (cleaner log, but before upgraded PCV valve and Cannisters):
http://www.datazap.me/u/kooshi3/stag...og=0&data=4-15

The question is, where can I go from here? I do not hear any wastegate rattle when I drive, so I believe my actuators are working fine. It has gotten to that point where I'm feeling hopeless about resolving this and will try anything to resolve. Any help, advice, or next steps would be appreciated.

Thanks,
-Kooshi3

[Jklad]

There was a time she my car would boost up fine in 1st and 2nd but throw a code after sustained boost in 3rd or 4th. In my case it was the damned cp connection to the throttle body - the clip was not fully seated all the way around into the groove. It was not leaking during short bursts of wot, but sustaining wot would cause the tb to shift aside and boost would start leaking. Didn't figure it out until after I bought new DVs and still got the code.

It's probobly one of your connections.

[Kooshi3]

Originally Posted by Jklad

There was a time she my car would boost up fine in 1st and 2nd but throw a code after sustained boost in 3rd or 4th. In my case it was the damned cp connection to the throttle body - the clip was not fully seated all the way around into the groove. It was not leaking during short bursts of wot, but sustaining wot would cause the tb to shift aside and boost would start leaking. Didn't figure it out until after I bought new DVs and still got the code.

It's probobly one of your connections.

No clip or O-Ring because I use the Stett CP which has a coupler attached to the throttle body which attaches to the charge pipe. Looks like this:


Boost solenoids were both replaced with brand new one's of BMW's latest iteration (I think they revised them twice, and this is the third/newest version for the 335i).

[Kooshi3]

Bump for suggestions or help on where to go / what to try next.

I am buying a plastic syringe and a vacuum gauge to test the new solenoids and wastegate actuators, although I'm doubting I'm going to find anything.

[Sgop335]

Originally Posted by Kooshi3

Bump for suggestions or help on where to go / what to try next.

I am buying a plastic syringe and a vacuum gauge to test the new solenoids and wastegate actuators, although I'm doubting I'm going to find anything.

An example of a well written post w details, good job!

Just going after the obvious,
vacuum line to the rear turbo.
Could be the stett pipe connection, not preferred. If you have the stock pipe w clip and oring try that.
What fmic is it? May have missed that...check connections?
Check all vacuum lines again esp intake man to dv.
Check vacuum in the canister w vacuum gage on idle. Shouldnt be since stock is fine.

[Kooshi3]

Originally Posted by Sgop335

An example of a well written post w details, good job!

Just going after the obvious,
vacuum line to the rear turbo.

• I could replace this, but would require taking off downpipes. PITA, but doable

Could be the stett pipe connection, not preferred. If you have the stock pipe w clip and oring try that.

• P30ff started popping up before I swapped chargepipe, but I could do this when I test CP assembly with DV this weekend.

What fmic is it? May have missed that...check connections?
-Helix Stepped IC. Pressure tested to 10PSI and sprayed soapy water on both couplers. Didnt see bubbles / hear any leaks.

Check all vacuum lines again.
-Did this yesterday when pressure tested, replaced all except that rear with those suggested verocious motorsports silicone vacuum lines

Check vacuum in the canister w vacuum gage on idle. Shouldnt be since stock is fine.
-Doing this on Wednesday when vacuum gauge comes in

^

[Sgop335]

Originally Posted by Kooshi3

^

You mean the line to the rear wastegate correct? I didnt have to take out the dps.

[Kooshi3]

Originally Posted by Sgop335

You mean the line to the rear wastegate correct? I didnt have to take out the dps.

Correct, that is the only one I have not been able to replace. The one marked in red in this post:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...9&postcount=14

[Sgop335]

Originally Posted by Kooshi3

Correct, that is the only one I have not been able to replace. The one marked in red in this post:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...9&postcount=14

Aight, you dont have to take off dps. Did mine just fine, yes its little hard, but can be done.

[Kooshi3]

I was able to get in and replace that rear wastegate vacuum line. Sometimes it just takes someone saying that it is actually possible for you to do something to actually give it a shot.



I crimped the line in multiple places and blew threw it, but was not able to find any leak. So it is back to square one, however now all vacuum lines have been replaced with upgraded verocious motorsport silicone lines.

On a separate note / thinking out loud, could it be possible that there is no leak at all and it is a faulty MAP sensor in the chargepipe that needs to be replaced?

Ideas / next steps / thoughts are welcomed. If anyone has had the chance to review the logs, thoughts/feedback on that would be appreciated. Thank You!

[fredcase]

Im in the same boat. I only get mine under light throttle low rpm conditions. Ive seen a few say vanos solonoids might cause this also.

[Sgop335]

Originally Posted by Kooshi3

I was able to get in and replace that rear wastegate vacuum line. Sometimes it just takes someone saying that it is actually possible for you to do something to actually give it a shot.



I crimped the line in multiple places and blew threw it, but was not able to find any leak. So it is back to square one, however now all vacuum lines have been replaced with upgraded verocious motorsport silicone lines.

On a separate note / thinking out loud, could it be possible that there is no leak at all and it is a faulty MAP sensor in the chargepipe that needs to be replaced?

Ideas / next steps / thoughts are welcomed. If anyone has had the chance to review the logs, thoughts/feedback on that would be appreciated. Thank You!

That was quick. Still have the code? If you bring up the map sensor, perhaps you can try cleaning it w crc mass sensor cleaner.

[marketmaster]

I don't mean to hijack your thread, but could a leaking valve cover gasket cause a 30FF?

[Kooshi3]

Originally Posted by marketmaster

I don't mean to hijack your thread, but could a leaking valve cover gasket cause a 30FF?

From what I have been told, seen on e90post, yes it can. However, I don't believe that is the case here. I pressure tested and did not hear any air nor see bubbles come out of the areas I put a small amount of soap and water to test any areas that even looked like a crack. .

Air did come out of the oil cap. However, it seems that it is vented and air coming out here is by design (correct me if I'm wrong here).

Im in the same boat. I only get mine under light throttle low rpm conditions. Ive seen a few say vanos solonoids might cause this also.

This is a little different than what I am experiencing. Mine happens while full throttle in 3rd or 4th gear when there is an extended discrepancy between requested and delivered boost that trips the computer and causes the CEL.

That was quick. Still have the code? If you bring up the map sensor, perhaps you can try cleaning it w crc mass sensor cleaner.

I have not tested yet as it was pouring rain last night. However, I doubt anything will change since the vacuum line it replaced was fine and did not have any leaks. I'm going to be retesting the entire charge pipe unit tomorrow once I get some additional hosing / plastic syringe so I will clean it out then.

[marketmaster]

Originally Posted by Kooshi3

From what I have been told, seen on e90post, yes it can. However, I don't believe that is the case here. I pressure tested and did not hear any air nor see bubbles come out of the areas I put a small amount of soap and water to test any areas that even looked like a crack. .

Thanks for the info. The reason I ask is because I'm trying to chase this same issue. it is very frustrating. I DO know I have a leaking valve cover gasket. When I pulled the cover last weekend to replace all the vac lines, there was oil in #3 and #2. Hoping a VCG will fix my issue.

[Kooshi3]

Bump for any advice or guidance on where to go from here. Has anyone had the chance to review the logs? Does the range look normal for a typical cobb tune?

Any help is appreciated, Thank You

[j1gilles]

Replace your map sensor...

[Kooshi3]

Originally Posted by j1gilles

Replace your map sensor...

I went ahead and placed an order for it this morning and will try this once it arrives.

After work, my vacuum gauge and plastic syringe came in so I did some additional testing in the P30FF guide here: http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13114

Tested Vacuum to Wastegate Solenoids

-Guide mentions that this should display around -26 Hg. This was the case when I tested the level of vacuum to both solenoids.



Testing Wastegate Actuator Movement and Closure

With the plastic syringe I went ahead tested the lines to the wastegate actuators and the actuators themselves. I applied vacuum and saw the rear (front is not visible) actuator close.

I also heard them open and close. I also applied vacuum with the syringe and held it for a minute to see if the wastegate closure held and if it became any easier to open. The vacuum seemed to hold as the syringe attempted to return to its starting position which would indicate the actuators maintained their vacuum seal upon closure.

Will post additional results and info once MAP sensor is received. If anyone can provide additional guidance or feedback on the logs above, that would be appreciated.

Thanks

[sliderslider]

MAP sensor i would believe to the be culprit, or its gonna end up being sensor related.

[Kooshi3]

I am going to be replacing the map sensor when it comes in later this week and will post the results once complete. There is one thing I wanted to do while I do this.

In order to replace the MAP sensor, I'm going to have to take the charge pipe out. While it is out I wanted to test the entire charge pipe assembly as indicated in step 1b within the p30ff guide here:

http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13114

This step is not the most descriptive like the one's above it, so I am hoping someone can explain what exactly is needed to be able to carry out this step.



^From what I understand, this would be similar to the plugs that were created to pressurize the system at the intake inlets.

• The charge pipe would have everything plugged in as it would operate in the vehicle, diverter valves, recirculating tubes, and map sensor (sans it being connected to its connector).
• The side that is closest to the front of the vehicle / intercooler, would be closed off completely.
• The side closest to the firewall would be pressurized with air.
• The diverter valves would each have a tube connected to each of the nipples that would meet at a 3 pointed tee, and a third tube would be connected from the third point to the syringe?
• Syringe is pulled out (creating vacuum), and pressure is now run through the system at 22psi? - Air should be flowing out of recirculating tubes at this point
• Syringe is pushed in and this "should" cause the flow of air to stop through the recirculating tubes
• If diverter valves are functioning correctly, this pressure being built by the syringe being pushed in should cause the flow of air to cease. Thus, if the ends are dipped in water, there should be no bubles or flow of air.
• If there is air, this would indicate a non functioning / incorrectly functioning/leaking diverter valve that lets off pressure before throttle is released once boost is created?

I tried to break this down step by step. If I am off anywhere in the logic or how the assembly is to be set up, feedback would be appreciated.

Will keep everyone posted with detailed results in the hope of helping any others who suffer from the dreaded P30FF code in the future.

Thank you All
-Kooshi3