[Bimmer 808]

So I had the weekend to myself and decided I would tackle a few upgrades I've been wanting to do for a while to prepare my ride for more power. I chose these particular projects so I could kill a few birds with one stone. They made sense to do these while I had the engine bay broken down.

First thing I did was remove the cowl, filter, loom, and engine cover. This was my first time doing this by myself. It was pretty easy, I just followed the initial instructions in the Cobb video for diagnosing misfires.

RB PCV
Once I had everything off, I attempted to install the RB PCV upgrade. I've only heard good things about this modification, and it seemed like a smart thing to do for ~$45 and peace of mind. Also, from everything I've read, this may alleviate the need to install an oil catch can (OCC). We'll see how it goes.

I ordered the RB PCV from BMS here: http://burgertuning.com/RB_Upgraded_...placement.html

The RB PCV was definitely an upgrade over the plastic stock piece. You can tell from the pictures below that it is quality.

For the install, I pretty much followed the mini DIY here: http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=190
with one change. I found that trying to remove the check valve in order to pull out the stock DV was a major PITA. Instead, I just used a wrench to unscrew the top fuel line on the driver's side. I found that once this is done you can flex it out of the way, pull the stock unit out, and install the RB. I pulled a coil pack to unscrew the other side but it wasn't necessary. Just be aware that a little fuel will squirt out when you unscrew the fuel line. No big deal.

Initially the RB PCV wouldn't slide into the stock housing because of the plastic grooves. This issue was documented in the forums where some ended up shaving the plastic a bit to make it fit. I don't think that's necessary. I just applied a bit more pressure and the plastic gave way enough for the RB PCV to slide through.

Lastly, you may want to consider purchasing the RB PCV cap. http://www.rbturbo.com/rb-n54-pcv-valve-screw-on-cap
Though not necessary, the stock cap easily deforms when attempting this install. Also get it if you want a little bling in the engine bay .

Of note, after the install I started her up and immediately threw code 2E9F, which is oil condition sensor. I cleared the code and it hasn't come back.

VRSF CP and Turbosmart DV
Next up was the VRSF CP and Turbosmart install. I chose VRSF among the other charge pipes out there because mainly because of the reviews in the forums. I already once had to replace the stock CP with another unit after it had blown off on me running Cobb Stage 1+ Aggressive. I already have DPs ordered and I know that if I want to increase boost I would have to upgrade my CP.

Same thing goes for diverter valves. I was worried that the stock DVs were not holding boost and I needed an upgrade. I did my research between the whole re-circulation vs vent to atmosphere (VTA) thing and settled on going the recirc route, which seems to be the best bet for safety and reliability. I heard nothing but great things about Turbosmart and their products, so I decided to go with their Kompact Plumb Back recirc BOV.

I ordered the CP from VRSF: http://www.vr-speed.com/vrsf-chargep...i-n54-n55.html If you want to go with this set up, choose the "OEM Twin DV" option.

Ordered the Turbosmart from Top Gear Solutions: http://www.topgearsolutions.com/tubmwn54plba.html

The VRSF CP is quite an upgrade, especially when compared to stock there is no comparison. Those Turbosmart valves are of amazing quality. Sexy is the best way to describe them lol.

As far as the install goes, there is nothing official from VRSF on how to install their CP. Thankfully, Turbosmart provides step-by-step instructions on how to remove the stock air box and uninstall the DVs. http://www.turbosmartusa.com/wp-cont...ompact_Kit.pdf Once you do that, removing the stock CP is pretty straight forward.

Of note, the Y connector for the vacuum tubes broke apart when trying to disconnect it. I've found that you can still drive the car to the nearest auto parts store to pick up a new one and install it after the car has already been put back together. Also, installation of the CP was a perfect fit. However, I must admit it took a lot of force to align and c-clip on. My advice is to push up hard and not baby it. It will fit.

M3 Cowl
Finally, I was inspired by this thread to switch to the M3 cowl. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=228781 I think it looks a lot better and definitely a lot more roomier for tinkering around the engine as you can see.

Here are the part numbers and descriptions for your reference. I ordered all the parts from ECS Tuning http://www.ecstuning.com/.

Housing - 64316958817
Housing - 64316958818
Housing - 64316958815
Housing - 64316958816
Covering Left - 64319144869
Covering Right - 64319144870
*electrical cable holders Schmiedmann
12-52-7-838-732 cover $20.78
12-52-7-838-733 lower tray $20.78
paypal fee $2.96
shipping $24.2
Totaling $68.72 USD

*optional

I also ordered the cabin air filters from Amazon: http://amzn.com/B006OUN5ZW

The install was pretty straight forward. You reuse the same screws as well as the profile gasket. The M3 cable duct is optional. Some people just zip tie the cables to the back of the firewall. I didn't install mine because I'm waiting for the bottom duct piece to arrive, so for now it just rests on the engine cover. As for the sensor, the wire is not long enough to reach the sensor mount. Some have spliced it to extend it. I just left it unsecured in the housing. No big deal.

Conclusions
So after installing the CP and BOV, the car definitely feels more powerful, like there is more boost, along with a more pronounced sensation of being thrown back in your seat. I have yet to throw any codes. I think these upgrades will definitely help to increase power safely when I install my downpipes and Cobb stage 2+.

As for the M3 cowl, I do not perceive any increase in engine noise into the passenger compartment. Aside from it being more roomier and prettier in the engine bay, I was curious to see what the weight savings would be. Taking a scientific approach, I weighed myself, then I weighed myself holding the stock cowl, and then again with the M3 cowl. For what it's worth, the difference was about 4lbs. If you were to run cowl-less, the difference would be 9lbs. Fun fact.

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Nice write up!

Mike

[LMB335IS]

Can you post a pic of the cable duct? I've been looking for those parts forever but all I see is the same cable harness from the 335i. Even the part #s you posted pulled up the 335i harness.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Nice write up!

Wow, it's been a while since I've seen a stock intake. Clean engine bay though!

[808AWD325xi]

Originally Posted by LMB335IS

Can you post a pic of the cable duct? I've been looking for those parts forever but all I see is the same cable harness from the 335i. Even the part #s you posted pulled up the 335i harness.

+1

[Tiago@VRSF]

Great write up!

Thanks for taking the time to post pics!

[Bimmer 808]

Originally Posted by LMB335IS

Can you post a pic of the cable duct? I've been looking for those parts forever but all I see is the same cable harness from the 335i. Even the part #s you posted pulled up the 335i harness.

You are right. Those are NOT the correct parts, even though they are the ones listed on realoem. I've searched everywhere as well and can't find them!

[montegokid94]

Fun read

[c0ris07]

I dont think those cable tray part numbers are right. Im pretty sure I have the correct part numbers but just waiting until they arrive to give the all clear.

[LMB335IS]

Originally Posted by c0ris07

I dont think those cable tray part numbers are right. Im pretty sure I have the correct part numbers but just waiting until they arrive to give the all clear.

Please do. It would be great to have the correct parts finally

[BeastMode335i]

m3 cowl looks way cleaner imo..

[135Pats]

The stock intake and vac cans always throw me for a loop, not used to seeing them.

Nicely done OP

[Bimmer 808]

Originally Posted by c0ris07

I dont think those cable tray part numbers are right. Im pretty sure I have the correct part numbers but just waiting until they arrive to give the all clear.

Did you ever find out if the parts fit?

[c0ris07]

Originally Posted by Bimmer 808

Did you ever find out if the parts fit?

Yep

Fitting it next weekend...

[LMB335IS]

Originally Posted by c0ris07

Yep

Fitting it next weekend...

Help a brotha out with the part #'s for those cable trays please!

[808AWD325xi]

Originally Posted by c0ris07

Yep

Fitting it next weekend...

What are the part numbers for this cable duct?

[matthewo]

Yeah +1 what are the m3 cable tray #s I have all m3 cowls and would like the cleaner look to organize the cables

[c0ris07]

Will do as soon as I get home. Away with the missus at the moment.

[terryd5150]

Subbed for PNs.

[c0ris07]

Ok Part numbers are;

12527838732
12527838733

Keep in mind I have not fitted in the engine bay yet so don't know if they clash with anything but from the looks of it they should be fine.

[Bimmer 808]

where did you get the parts from? I can't find those searching those part #s.

[c0ris07]

Speak to Jacob at Schmiedmann direct. He will help you out.