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Winter, options for pre-heating the car
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10-15-2015, 08:18 AM | #1 |
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Winter, options for pre-heating the car
Hi Guys,
as we move towards winter again, is anyone using anything to warm the car before you get into it in the mornings? I have electric heated seats so things aren't too bad. I have seen some re-chargeable battery operated ideas that don't have to use the car battery. Some with timers and some with remotes to turn them on from inside your house. Is anyone using one which they are happy with? There is one on maplin but 90% of the reviews have 1 star saying the heater is pitiful. I can't believe it's so difficult to find a good solution. I had hoped that the idrive had a pre-heat solution but it's just that useless ventilation option for hot weather. Probably useful for 1 week of the year and about as effective as leaving a small gap in the windows. If it wasn't such a PITA I'd run a mains line to a fan heater.
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10-15-2015, 08:21 AM | #2 |
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Remote start maybe???
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GC Turbos, FBO, JB4, DCT, Port Meth injection, BMS Charge Pipe, NGK plugs. EBC brakes and pads, LED Angel lights, LED foglights, LCI rears OCC, Braided brake lines. Custom Diff Lockdown Kit, VTT inlets, TMAP, stage 2+ fuel pump
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10-15-2015, 08:25 AM | #3 |
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10-15-2015, 09:05 AM | #4 |
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Because idling a vehicle while stone cold is really bad for the engine, and potentially illegal too depending on the situation.
Get in, start it and drive off is the best thing for the car. The most i'll do is start the engine, click on the heated screen and demister, then get out to scrape the glass before driving off. That way the screens have cleared by the time your ready to go and you can get going immediately. The cars have PTC heaters in them, so they start producing warm air very quickly. Any cars which have proper pre-heating systems usually use a small diesel powered furnace to heat the engine coolant up, and a pump to circulate it round the system. The more modern stuff will also fire up the interior blowers etc to use that warm air to clear the screens etc. |
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10-15-2015, 09:53 AM | #6 |
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On other forum's they were saying the 5 and the 7 have it. Not the 3 though. Unless you pay for a Viper system.
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10-15-2015, 09:56 AM | #7 |
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I had a viper system with remote start and I could control it from my phone. Best way forward as I could control hot or cold so good for the summer too.
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10-15-2015, 09:59 AM | #8 |
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10-15-2015, 10:04 AM | #9 |
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I've had remote engine start through Clifford on a couple of my previous cars. Excellent addition to the alarm itself and quite nice for those cold mornings.
The E53 X5's can be optioned with remote ventilation and heat too which is superb. Not seen any standalone options that are we're worth it and I've now got a decent heated garage to put her in.
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10-15-2015, 10:51 AM | #11 |
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Largely true but wouldn't a heated steering wheel be nice. I can remember when it was -16C and painful to hold the wheel.
I mainly find it's those 3 to 4 mins when the air is cold and you can't help but shiver which are annoying. Now I'm not one to feel the cold. I'm still in short sleeves because my office is always so hot. It's just that when temps finally go negative I'd like a blast of a heater before I get in.
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GC Turbos, FBO, JB4, DCT, Port Meth injection, BMS Charge Pipe, NGK plugs. EBC brakes and pads, LED Angel lights, LED foglights, LCI rears OCC, Braided brake lines. Custom Diff Lockdown Kit, VTT inlets, TMAP, stage 2+ fuel pump
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10-15-2015, 11:18 AM | #13 |
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10-15-2015, 11:46 AM | #14 | |
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Quote:
I feel the cold really badly. I'd love a heating steering wheel Normally I wear gloves when it starts to get cold. That's a massive can of worms that's about to get re-opened. |
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10-15-2015, 11:52 AM | #15 |
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Engine lubrication is at its poorest when the engines cold. The longer it spends cold, the more damage is done. Driving the car immediately generates a lot more heat than just idling, and thus lets the engine and fluids get up to temperature faster, and the increased RPM's also helps shift more oil round the engine.
Similarly fuel atomisation is at its poorest on a cold idling engine, so you get incomplete combustion which lets fuel enter the oil etc. This is why cars making lots of short journeys typically need more regular oil changes than cars doing a lot of motorway miles. Its far better for the motor to just get in and drive, and the cars handbook will tell you exactly that. |
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10-15-2015, 12:49 PM | #16 |
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Example: Had to stay in a dingy Travel lodge at a motorway services a few months ago. Are you saying its better to jump on a motorway at 70mph+ on a stone cold engine?
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10-15-2015, 01:18 PM | #17 | |
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Yes, youll be warming the engine up far quicker as the engine has some load. Sitting idling is just pumping cold oil around with very little load to help it warm. I get to drive around 400m every day before i have to turn left onto a dual carriageway and get up to 50 fairly quick. I then hit the motorway a mile later. You won't see my cruising in the hard shoulder doing 30 to get my engine warm. |
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10-15-2015, 01:38 PM | #18 |
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I think there is a webasto auxiliary heating retrofit available as the PTC can't be used for cabin preheating as far as I know. It's just quick clear windscreen option.
The e90's do have a codable option for cabin pre-heating which can be enabled on the headunit. Without a webasto installed however it will just circulate external air. Useful in the summer I guess but pointless in winter. You set it to come on at a certain time. If works quite well. Off the top of my head the option to set as activ is: standheizung Can't remember if is in the HU or IHKA... |
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10-15-2015, 07:12 PM | #19 | |
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I could never just jump in and drive i always let it idle for a couple of minutes in any weather condition |
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10-16-2015, 02:01 AM | #20 |
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Just jump in and drive. The idea is to get the oil lubricating and up to temp as soon as possible. Obviously you don't just drive straight off and redline it but even getting up to 70mph you can do with gentle acceleration and without going over 2.5k rpm for example.
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10-16-2015, 05:02 AM | #22 |
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Many folk do, but that doesnt mean its right.
All your doing is washing the cylinder bores with fuel and putting undue stress on the camshafts etc. Driving the car is the best way to warm it up. It also means your warming up the transmission and diff at the same time as everything else. |
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