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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Do i NEED to remove the engine cover to replace OFHG?
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10-17-2015, 09:31 PM | #1 |
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Do i NEED to remove the engine cover to replace OFHG?
The two bolts in the back seem like a PITA. Ive heard you can just pop it off, but i pulled on it pretty hard and it didnt budge.
Even if i removed the cowling, it seems like those back bolts might be tough. What do you think? Im giving this a shot tomorrow. |
10-17-2015, 10:16 PM | #2 |
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What engine ? N52, 54 or 55?
N54 you have to remove intake bolts and I remove the studs to move the intake out of the way to get the back one. All of them on the bottom one coming in opposite the rest you can get without removing the coolant hose with a e10 wrench as you pull the OFH to give you enough room to get the bolt out. N52 you can get easily with a e10 without unbolting intake on swivel using 1/4 drive ratchet or a swivel head e10 if you have it for 1/4. Makes the angle less extreme and gives you more room then a 3/8 Oil cooler is probably the worst of the three but I remove the entire housing from the car and the two lines out of the fan housing with the 6mm allens. Then replace the gaskets oil cooler and OFHG on the bench N55 is probably similar to the others but I haven't done one...... I think lol II work on a lot of cars |
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10-17-2015, 10:38 PM | #3 | |
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Quote:
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10-17-2015, 10:57 PM | #4 |
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Even better.
Like I said 1/4 drive, extension and swivel to get the back one under the intake. Shouldn't even have to remove acoustic cover. Just use magnet so you don't drop it, and pay attention they are all different length bolts. Caution: if you remove the coolant line to get the bottom bolt in the front be very very careful the plastic doesn't break or the orings doesn't tear on the hose. Super brittle and going back in use lube. You can get away with an 8mm socket on the E10 heads but make sure you get the 8mm on all the way so you don't round the head off and make it difficult even for the e10. Be prepared to catch oil and coolant. Lastly pop the oil cap, coolant cap and oil filter to help drain what's in the housing into the crank case to prevent a large mess. |
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10-18-2015, 09:04 AM | #5 |
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There is a good DIY on the OFHG. No need to remove the engine cover. The upper rear bolt of the OFH is accessible using a 1/4 drive 6" extension bar and a swivel-joint and a 8MM socket. You can also break the tension of that bolt using a 8MM boxend wrench, then turn it out using the extension set up. Save yourself a mess and drain the oil and drain some of 1/2 coolant about a gallon or a bit more. Make sure you open the oil filter up and suck out the 12 ounces of oil that sit in the OFH, or you'll have a huge mess. Also, remove both coolant hoses (some people don't) because it aids in properly re-seating the housing to the cylinder head. I've done mine twice now 100,000 miles apart from each other. My advice also is to buy a new bolt for the upper rear location since using a 8MM socket and/or wrench mungs up the E-torx head a bit, so the next time around it may strip the head on you.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
Last edited by Efthreeoh; 10-18-2015 at 09:11 AM.. |
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10-18-2015, 08:53 PM | #7 |
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Well, we did it. I wouldnt say it was a tough job, but i was really happy my brother in law (who is a mechanic) was there to help me out. That third screw was a little bit of a pain. He had a lot of tools that made it much easier.
It didnt overheat on the way home, so that is a good sign........it didnt take the full 2 gallons of coolant/water mix, so maybe there was some residual from when we drained it. Anyway, thanks for the help. This forum has been a great source of info for me. |
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10-18-2015, 09:49 PM | #9 |
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