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      11-03-2015, 03:33 AM   #1
kong24680
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VRSF Inlet Feedback?

I know a number of members have already purchased and received the new VRSF inlet system, and was wondering if anyone can give some feedback as to what they think about them. My inlet set came in about 2 weeks ago, but I haven't had a chance to install them yet. I'm currently FBO w/ JB4 on 91 octane pump gas without backend flash/mhd and am hoping that I can at least get a modest 20whp gain with the inlets. It would be nice to hear some initial impressions as to how they perform.
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      11-03-2015, 09:36 AM   #2
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without tuning for them, you arent going to gain much, if any.

What inlets do is allow your turbos to run more efficiently and hold boost longer. So if you tune to keep peak boost up longer, than you will gain.
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      11-03-2015, 10:15 AM   #3
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On 91 octane I don't think you'll see 20whp. 91 limits boost so much that it won't help much IMO. Running E60 or something, you could hold 21psi at 5500.
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      11-03-2015, 10:41 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kong24680 View Post
I know a number of members have already purchased and received the new VRSF inlet system, and was wondering if anyone can give some feedback as to what they think about them. My inlet set came in about 2 weeks ago, but I haven't had a chance to install them yet. I'm currently FBO w/ JB4 on 91 octane pump gas without backend flash/mhd and am hoping that I can at least get a modest 20whp gain with the inlets. It would be nice to hear some initial impressions as to how they perform.
Those gains on 91 are going to be hard to come by and any gains will only be in the upper RPM band on stock turbos and pump gas. Mix some E85 in there so you can take better advantage of the inlets and the JB4.

91 is very octane limiting

Mike
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      11-03-2015, 10:57 AM   #5
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Wow, unfortunately 91 is the only fuel available in my area. After the inlet install I will probably try to run mhd backend stacked on the jb4, and try to run a custom 91 map and a custom e85 map for when I can get my hands on some. But I guess anything is better than stock inlets... Hopefully I will be able to take full advantage of the inlets after upgraded turbos.
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      11-03-2015, 03:20 PM   #6
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get some meth and you can up the boost as well.
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      11-03-2015, 08:01 PM   #7
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I've had nothing but problems with the inlets to be honest. Vrsf does have great stuff like the IC and DPs but not so much on the inlets. Get the MMP or PR and you'll save a lot of headaches. Or go with VTT if you do not want to relocate anything.
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      11-03-2015, 08:27 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zmon1300 View Post
I've had nothing but problems with the inlets to be honest. Vrsf does have great stuff like the IC and DPs but not so much on the inlets. Get the MMP or PR and you'll save a lot of headaches. Or go with VTT if you do not want to relocate anything.
Did you finally get it in?
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      11-03-2015, 08:33 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zmon1300 View Post
I've had nothing but problems with the inlets to be honest. Vrsf does have great stuff like the IC and DPs but not so much on the inlets. Get the MMP or PR and you'll save a lot of headaches. Or go with VTT if you do not want to relocate anything.
What kind of issues? Kinda hard to mess up inlets.
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      11-03-2015, 09:11 PM   #10
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I have mine installed.

Not a huge fan of the overflow relocation and power steering reserve relo . The overflow is really tight with my charge pipe. Overflow bracket is flimsy and weird angle.

For $229 hard to complain.

I did my install with FBO, so not sure of the gains. Car sounds great now.
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      11-03-2015, 10:01 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgb1974
I have mine installed.

Not a huge fan of the overflow relocation and power steering reserve relo . The overflow is really tight with my charge pipe. Overflow bracket is flimsy and weird angle.

For $229 hard to complain.

I did my install with FBO, so not sure of the gains. Car sounds great now.
I'm thinking about fabricating my own brackets, or just go for the 335d reservoir to make it look more oem
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      11-03-2015, 10:15 PM   #12
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Brackets don't fit with IC piping / Chargepipe. I have all vrsf parts and the brackets won't fit unless you really bend them. At least with mine. Also the relocation kit isn't so good. The wires aren't good quality. Just kind of hanging there. Also the lower coolant reservoir doesn't have a spot. Just leans on the fans. Had to zip tie that because it kept touching the belt and eventually had a coolant leak because it are away at the belt. The pcv hose that goes to the inlet is way to long. Could have made it shorter and it would have been easier and cleaner to install. But yes I got it all figured out.

For the pcv hose. I tucked it behind the cowl and zip tied. Lower coolant reservoir hose had to replace and zip tie down. For the tank I had to order PR bracket and harness for the sensor to make all this work and look clean.

Just a big headache to deal with imho. Wasn't satisfied like the other vrsf products. Done with vrsf. Not trying to steer you away from them. Just gave you my experience with the inlets. I'm done with vrsf products.
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      11-03-2015, 10:39 PM   #13
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I installed this kit over the weekend on my 07 E92 with an Auto tranny. This was completed with the car jacked up and sitting on jack stands on my garage floor. This is my unbiased and blunt review.....

What I liked about the kit out of the box:
1. The piping for the inlets are smooth flowing and polished up.
2. The couplers were thick and appeared to be high quality. I wouldn't be worried about them cracking being damaged down the road.
3. Everything needed to install the inlets is included in the kit.
4. The price! hard to beat $269.99!

What I didn't like about the kit out of the box:
1. No printed instructions! Without the online DIY I would have been kind of lost.... and still was.
2. The brackets really really reaaaaallly look like shit. Right out of the package the black paint was flaking off and the edges looked like they were cut with a handsaw and were jagged. I actually looked at them and thought this can't be the finished product.
3. No bolts / washers. All the old bolts washers were expected to be reused in different locations and found I was short somehow?

The install, I'm assuming you've read the DIY.... so instead of going over everything again I'll just cover what I did differently.

The rear inlet:
1. I replaced my oil housing gasket at the same time and had the intake manifold off to clean up all the oil / coolant on the block. I found this to be helpful to rear around and unbolt the 2 hex screws holding the rear inlet on. 2. I didn't remove my down pipes. I had a hell of a time installing them last year and didn't want to have to readjust them several time to keep them from rattling together.
3. I was able to reach through the gap between the down pipes and grab the rear inlet. After being unable to free it from the bracket and saying FUCK about a thousand times..... I grabbed the dremel tool and cut the neck of the inlet off. Problem solved pulled right out.
4. I assembled the rear 90 coupler and 90 pipe with PVC connection and was able to install it from the top. It took some more swearing but eventually I was about to get the coupler past the waste gate and onto the turbo. The PVC connection is improperly placed. On future kits I'd hope VRSF moves this connection as it is very tight and can / will eventually rub on the shock tower.

The front inlet
1. I didn't have to remove the rad. Since I replaced the oil filter housing gasket at the same time I had the oil cooler lines out of the way. I was able to just loosen the inlet from the turbo, unbolt the 2 hex screws and wiggle it out. Pretty painless.
2. The 90 coupler and straight pipe is idiot proof. If you can't figure it out, start sitting down when you pee.

Coolant tank relocation
1. Save some swearing for this one!
2. The 90 brass fitting is GARBAGE!!!!! The nipples are screwed into the fitting and WILL come loose when you spend an hour trying to get the coolant tank to install on the drivers side. Save your self the trouble and buy a $2 solid brass 90 fitting from Home Depot. I used the one in the kit only to see coolant dripping when I filled the coolant tank. Learn from this mistake.
3. For the life of me I couldn't get the lower coolant tank hose to bend and fit as per the DIY. I ended up shaving off the larger ridge on the end of the hose so that it could be installed facing the front of car instead of the rear. This was the only way I could get the hose to flow around the belt and pulley's without it kinking or touching the belt.
4. Remember those shitty brackets? Well I could only get the flat one to fit. The bent bracket which attaches to the suspension bolt was no were near fitting....so I left it out.
5. Spend the money (like I will be) on the 335D coolant tank. The $90 is worth it to save yourself the problems and have a part that mounts properly.
6. The wires for the low coolant sensor are single red and black wires. I have no clue why they didn't source wires which are already paired together? I ended up using electrical tape and taping the wires together every 6 inches or so.

Power steering reservoir
1. I ran out of nuts and bolts and zip tied this down lol

My car is FBO with the mods in my sig below. So after the frustration of the install I bet you're wondering how it runs.... and the answer is FUCKING AMAZING!!! I was surprised at how loud the turbos are now. Even with a little throttle I'm able to hear them spooling up. My HKS BOV is much louder at the same boost level which I wasn't expecting. I'd assume this is because of the higher volume of air being compressed by the turbos? Spool up feels is almost instant with very little lag. I also noticed that boost isn't dipping in the higher RPM's either. The car feels a lot quicker and its been breaking traction in 3rd gear on the highway when I romp on it. I have any before and after dynos, sorry but at FBO there is definitely an improvement.

Overall for the performance and price I'd recommend the VRSF inlets. But if you're someone who likes to have everything perfect right off the bat.... you might want to look elsewhere.

Last edited by SDG335i; 11-03-2015 at 10:49 PM..
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      11-03-2015, 10:51 PM   #14
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A few quick pics.
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      11-04-2015, 12:23 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SDG335i
I installed this kit over the weekend on my 07 E92 with an Auto tranny. This was completed with the car jacked up and sitting on jack stands on my garage floor. This is my unbiased and blunt review.....

What I liked about the kit out of the box:
1. The piping for the inlets are smooth flowing and polished up.
2. The couplers were thick and appeared to be high quality. I wouldn't be worried about them cracking being damaged down the road.
3. Everything needed to install the inlets is included in the kit.
4. The price! hard to beat $269.99!

What I didn't like about the kit out of the box:
1. No printed instructions! Without the online DIY I would have been kind of lost.... and still was.
2. The brackets really really reaaaaallly look like shit. Right out of the package the black paint was flaking off and the edges looked like they were cut with a handsaw and were jagged. I actually looked at them and thought this can't be the finished product.
3. No bolts / washers. All the old bolts washers were expected to be reused in different locations and found I was short somehow?

The install, I'm assuming you've read the DIY.... so instead of going over everything again I'll just cover what I did differently.

The rear inlet:
1. I replaced my oil housing gasket at the same time and had the intake manifold off to clean up all the oil / coolant on the block. I found this to be helpful to rear around and unbolt the 2 hex screws holding the rear inlet on. 2. I didn't remove my down pipes. I had a hell of a time installing them last year and didn't want to have to readjust them several time to keep them from rattling together.
3. I was able to reach through the gap between the down pipes and grab the rear inlet. After being unable to free it from the bracket and saying FUCK about a thousand times..... I grabbed the dremel tool and cut the neck of the inlet off. Problem solved pulled right out.
4. I assembled the rear 90 coupler and 90 pipe with PVC connection and was able to install it from the top. It took some more swearing but eventually I was about to get the coupler past the waste gate and onto the turbo. The PVC connection is improperly placed. On future kits I'd hope VRSF moves this connection as it is very tight and can / will eventually rub on the shock tower.

The front inlet
1. I didn't have to remove the rad. Since I replaced the oil filter housing gasket at the same time I had the oil cooler lines out of the way. I was able to just loosen the inlet from the turbo, unbolt the 2 hex screws and wiggle it out. Pretty painless.
2. The 90 coupler and straight pipe is idiot proof. If you can't figure it out, start sitting down when you pee.

Coolant tank relocation
1. Save some swearing for this one!
2. The 90 brass fitting is GARBAGE!!!!! The nipples are screwed into the fitting and WILL come loose when you spend an hour trying to get the coolant tank to install on the drivers side. Save your self the trouble and buy a $2 solid brass 90 fitting from Home Depot. I used the one in the kit only to see coolant dripping when I filled the coolant tank. Learn from this mistake.
3. For the life of me I couldn't get the lower coolant tank hose to bend and fit as per the DIY. I ended up shaving off the larger ridge on the end of the hose so that it could be installed facing the front of car instead of the rear. This was the only way I could get the hose to flow around the belt and pulley's without it kinking or touching the belt.
4. Remember those shitty brackets? Well I could only get the flat one to fit. The bent bracket which attaches to the suspension bolt was no were near fitting....so I left it out.
5. Spend the money (like I will be) on the 335D coolant tank. The $90 is worth it to save yourself the problems and have a part that mounts properly.
6. The wires for the low coolant sensor are single red and black wires. I have no clue why they didn't source wires which are already paired together? I ended up using electrical tape and taping the wires together every 6 inches or so.

Power steering reservoir
1. I ran out of nuts and bolts and zip tied this down lol

My car is FBO with the mods in my sig below. So after the frustration of the install I bet you're wondering how it runs.... and the answer is FUCKING AMAZING!!! I was surprised at how loud the turbos are now. Even with a little throttle I'm able to hear them spooling up. My HKS BOV is much louder at the same boost level which I wasn't expecting. I'd assume this is because of the higher volume of air being compressed by the turbos? Spool up feels is almost instant with very little lag. I also noticed that boost isn't dipping in the higher RPM's either. The car feels a lot quicker and its been breaking traction in 3rd gear on the highway when I romp on it. I have any before and after dynos, sorry but at FBO there is definitely an improvement.

Overall for the performance and price I'd recommend the VRSF inlets. But if you're someone who likes to have everything perfect right off the bat.... you might want to look elsewhere.
Wow, I really appreciate the thorough advice and feedback! I'll definitely take them to heart when I do my install.
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      11-04-2015, 09:58 PM   #16
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I 2nd everything you said.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SDG335i View Post
I installed this kit over the weekend on my 07 E92 with an Auto tranny. This was completed with the car jacked up and sitting on jack stands on my garage floor. This is my unbiased and blunt review.....

What I liked about the kit out of the box:
1. The piping for the inlets are smooth flowing and polished up.
2. The couplers were thick and appeared to be high quality. I wouldn't be worried about them cracking being damaged down the road.
3. Everything needed to install the inlets is included in the kit.
4. The price! hard to beat $269.99!

What I didn't like about the kit out of the box:
1. No printed instructions! Without the online DIY I would have been kind of lost.... and still was.
2. The brackets really really reaaaaallly look like shit. Right out of the package the black paint was flaking off and the edges looked like they were cut with a handsaw and were jagged. I actually looked at them and thought this can't be the finished product.
3. No bolts / washers. All the old bolts washers were expected to be reused in different locations and found I was short somehow?

The install, I'm assuming you've read the DIY.... so instead of going over everything again I'll just cover what I did differently.

The rear inlet:
1. I replaced my oil housing gasket at the same time and had the intake manifold off to clean up all the oil / coolant on the block. I found this to be helpful to rear around and unbolt the 2 hex screws holding the rear inlet on. 2. I didn't remove my down pipes. I had a hell of a time installing them last year and didn't want to have to readjust them several time to keep them from rattling together.
3. I was able to reach through the gap between the down pipes and grab the rear inlet. After being unable to free it from the bracket and saying FUCK about a thousand times..... I grabbed the dremel tool and cut the neck of the inlet off. Problem solved pulled right out.
4. I assembled the rear 90 coupler and 90 pipe with PVC connection and was able to install it from the top. It took some more swearing but eventually I was about to get the coupler past the waste gate and onto the turbo. The PVC connection is improperly placed. On future kits I'd hope VRSF moves this connection as it is very tight and can / will eventually rub on the shock tower.

The front inlet
1. I didn't have to remove the rad. Since I replaced the oil filter housing gasket at the same time I had the oil cooler lines out of the way. I was able to just loosen the inlet from the turbo, unbolt the 2 hex screws and wiggle it out. Pretty painless.
2. The 90 coupler and straight pipe is idiot proof. If you can't figure it out, start sitting down when you pee.

Coolant tank relocation
1. Save some swearing for this one!
2. The 90 brass fitting is GARBAGE!!!!! The nipples are screwed into the fitting and WILL come loose when you spend an hour trying to get the coolant tank to install on the drivers side. Save your self the trouble and buy a $2 solid brass 90 fitting from Home Depot. I used the one in the kit only to see coolant dripping when I filled the coolant tank. Learn from this mistake.
3. For the life of me I couldn't get the lower coolant tank hose to bend and fit as per the DIY. I ended up shaving off the larger ridge on the end of the hose so that it could be installed facing the front of car instead of the rear. This was the only way I could get the hose to flow around the belt and pulley's without it kinking or touching the belt.
4. Remember those shitty brackets? Well I could only get the flat one to fit. The bent bracket which attaches to the suspension bolt was no were near fitting....so I left it out.
5. Spend the money (like I will be) on the 335D coolant tank. The $90 is worth it to save yourself the problems and have a part that mounts properly.
6. The wires for the low coolant sensor are single red and black wires. I have no clue why they didn't source wires which are already paired together? I ended up using electrical tape and taping the wires together every 6 inches or so.

Power steering reservoir
1. I ran out of nuts and bolts and zip tied this down lol

My car is FBO with the mods in my sig below. So after the frustration of the install I bet you're wondering how it runs.... and the answer is FUCKING AMAZING!!! I was surprised at how loud the turbos are now. Even with a little throttle I'm able to hear them spooling up. My HKS BOV is much louder at the same boost level which I wasn't expecting. I'd assume this is because of the higher volume of air being compressed by the turbos? Spool up feels is almost instant with very little lag. I also noticed that boost isn't dipping in the higher RPM's either. The car feels a lot quicker and its been breaking traction in 3rd gear on the highway when I romp on it. I have any before and after dynos, sorry but at FBO there is definitely an improvement.

Overall for the performance and price I'd recommend the VRSF inlets. But if you're someone who likes to have everything perfect right off the bat.... you might want to look elsewhere.
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      11-05-2015, 01:57 PM   #17
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We've fixed the brackets, the 90 degree fittings and the PCV location on our future kits.

We actually ordered more brackets and will be more than happy to replace any current owners brackets if they'd like. Unfortunately the finish on the brackets were rushed by our supplier in order to meet the deadlines. Any relocation kit that utilizes the OEM coolant overflow is going to run into the issue where you're stuck with a VERY tight fit. Whatever brackets used do not matter, the OEM coolant tank barely fits.

If there is enough interest we can put together a 335d tank kit with a new chargepipe but it will add a lot of cost to the kit (new chargepipe & tank). I'd imagine it'd be an extra $250-300.
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      11-05-2015, 04:42 PM   #18
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Maybe you can order the Precsion Raceworks bracket . I have the kit in mine and it fits perfect and looks oem like .
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      11-06-2015, 07:43 PM   #19
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I'm still waiting on my inlets, ordered on 10-15-2015. I'm guessing they'll have the new brackets which is good. Not really in a hurry to get them, as long as it's within the month.
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      11-06-2015, 09:52 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tiago@VRSF View Post
We've fixed the brackets, the 90 degree fittings and the PCV location on our future kits.

We actually ordered more brackets and will be more than happy to replace any current owners brackets if they'd like. Unfortunately the finish on the brackets were rushed by our supplier in order to meet the deadlines. Any relocation kit that utilizes the OEM coolant overflow is going to run into the issue where you're stuck with a VERY tight fit. Whatever brackets used do not matter, the OEM coolant tank barely fits.

If there is enough interest we can put together a 335d tank kit with a new chargepipe but it will add a lot of cost to the kit (new chargepipe & tank). I'd imagine it'd be an extra $250-300.
so i plan on ordering your inlet kit and was planning on just buying a 335D coolant resevoir on my own to make my install look cleaner. but you mention a new chargepipe. why is a new chargepipe needed?

right now im all stock, down to the sotck airbox and stock chargepipe/DV's. i knew i was going to order turbo inlets from you guys once they came out so i figured id hold off on the engine mods until i know what setup i was going with. right now im just running a k&n drop-in air filter with a mhd 93oct stage 1 tune. pulls hard.

time for inlets! but now your adding some more parts to my list lol.

my plan was to order:
vrsf n54 turbo inlet kit
used or new 335d coolant tank
335d or modified coolant lines
vrsf chargepipe with tial bov

do i need anything else for this setup? do you recommend i do any other mods at the same time as i do this to save time. i already did the wlanut blasting so i might just pull the intake manifold to make the install easier because its an easy job to pull the int. mani. off.

Anthony
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      11-06-2015, 09:55 PM   #21
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a used 335d coolant tank on ebay a year ago was like $30. i bet with all the people running inlet kits and single turbos theyre probably hard to find used since the 335d wasnt the most popular model and theyre in much higher demand now bc its an oem solution to the problem

side note: does the 335d have vacuum canisters on the PS side like the 335i.
how about the z4 35i cars. im sure space is tight in there. any parts we could use for relocating?
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      11-06-2015, 11:09 PM   #22
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Why order a 335D coolant tank to accommodate a sub par bracket ? The oem tank fits just fine with a quality bracket .
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