Having Issue getting Amp and Sub to work.

Artz 330 · 01-30-2006, 10:57 PM

Heres the Issue. I have a Kicker Mono Subwoofer Amplifier (KX400.1)

Kicker Mono Subwoofer Amplifier (KX400.1)
KKR 04KX4001
• 200 watts RMS at 4 ohms
• Low-pass filter
• Protection circuitry • Speaker-level & RCA inputs
• Remote bass control

Along with a Kicker Subwoof (10")

Kicker 10" Subwoofer (CVR10)
KKR 05CVR102
• 600 watts peak power
• 25-500Hz frequency response
• Polymineral cone • Double-stitched surround
• High-temp dual voice coils

Everything worked perfectly fine with this setup in my MINI because it was so small. But I installed everything into my BMW. Worked just like in the MINI but the trunk is bigger so i dont have enough bass.

So I went out tonight and bought a Pioneer 760W Bridgeable 2-Channel MOSFET Amplifier with Selectable Bass Boost
Model: GM-5100T
760W peak power, bridged

380W RMS (continuous) x 1 @ 4 ohms, bridged, 10Hz - 50kHz, 0.008% THD

190W RMS (continuous) x 2 @ 2 ohms, 10Hz - 50kHz, 0.008% THD

125W RMS (continuous) x 2 @ 4 ohms, 10Hz - 50kHz, 0.008% THD

PWM MOSFET power supply delivers clean power with minimal heat dispersion

Variable low-pass crossover at 12dB/octave

Selectable bass boost up to 12dB at 50Hz

2-channel speaker-level inputs; 2-channel RCA inputs

Other features include balanced isolator input circuit and screw-type speaker terminals

Signal-to-noise ratio: 100dB; total harmonic distortion: 0.008%

I tried to install it but when i try the Sub there is nothing... i tried all the possible connections and settings and still nothing. But then when i plug in the kicker amp back with the kicker sub everything works...

Am I missing something here?? WTF!!

~Thanks.

PittWm · 01-31-2006, 01:14 AM

Did your Kicker have a voltage sensing turn on that did not require a 12v trigger? If so, you were turning the Kicker amp on with just feeding audio signal to the inputs.

The pioneer might need a 12v trigger to turn on. Without it, the amp doesn't know when to turn on or off. Also, are you rear loading the sub? You get better low if you face the sub toward the trunk opening.

You will need to find a 12v trigger in the trunk, I don't know the color of the wire yet, the one in my 2000 E46 was the single wire. Meter it before you connect it to the amp. This wire will throw a 12V when your head unit turns on.

AN alternative is to get a AudioControl LC6, it sense the input signals and provides a 12V trigger to turn everything on.

mocheese · 01-31-2006, 01:19 AM

this is what i would do:

check the fuse

with a voltmeter check to see if you are getting any power and that you have a good ground connection

check to mack sure you didn't disconnect the remote wire

see if there is an internal reset botton

check to see if your amp doesn't smell like you just fried it. you'll know if you did. smells like a**.

if that doesn't work then there is a good chance you got a bad amp. its happened to me a few times.

01-30-2006, 10:57 PM	#1
Artz 330 Colonel 201 Rep 2,486 Posts Drives: Z4M, 335i, 135i Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Lawrenceville, NJ iTrader: (4) Garage List 2006 330i [0.00]	Having Issue getting Amp and Sub to work. Heres the Issue. I have a Kicker Mono Subwoofer Amplifier (KX400.1) Kicker Mono Subwoofer Amplifier (KX400.1) KKR 04KX4001 • 200 watts RMS at 4 ohms • Low-pass filter • Protection circuitry • Speaker-level & RCA inputs • Remote bass control Along with a Kicker Subwoof (10") Kicker 10" Subwoofer (CVR10) KKR 05CVR102 • 600 watts peak power • 25-500Hz frequency response • Polymineral cone • Double-stitched surround • High-temp dual voice coils Everything worked perfectly fine with this setup in my MINI because it was so small. But I installed everything into my BMW. Worked just like in the MINI but the trunk is bigger so i dont have enough bass. So I went out tonight and bought a Pioneer 760W Bridgeable 2-Channel MOSFET Amplifier with Selectable Bass Boost Model: GM-5100T 760W peak power, bridged 380W RMS (continuous) x 1 @ 4 ohms, bridged, 10Hz - 50kHz, 0.008% THD 190W RMS (continuous) x 2 @ 2 ohms, 10Hz - 50kHz, 0.008% THD 125W RMS (continuous) x 2 @ 4 ohms, 10Hz - 50kHz, 0.008% THD PWM MOSFET power supply delivers clean power with minimal heat dispersion Variable low-pass crossover at 12dB/octave Selectable bass boost up to 12dB at 50Hz 2-channel speaker-level inputs; 2-channel RCA inputs Other features include balanced isolator input circuit and screw-type speaker terminals Signal-to-noise ratio: 100dB; total harmonic distortion: 0.008% I tried to install it but when i try the Sub there is nothing... i tried all the possible connections and settings and still nothing. But then when i plug in the kicker amp back with the kicker sub everything works... Am I missing something here?? WTF!! ~Thanks. __________________
	Appreciate 0 Tweet Quote

01-31-2006, 01:14 AM	#2
PittWm Second Lieutenant 7 Rep 209 Posts Drives: 06 330i SP pack, Prem pack, CW Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Paducah KY, USA iTrader: (0)	Did your Kicker have a voltage sensing turn on that did not require a 12v trigger? If so, you were turning the Kicker amp on with just feeding audio signal to the inputs. The pioneer might need a 12v trigger to turn on. Without it, the amp doesn't know when to turn on or off. Also, are you rear loading the sub? You get better low if you face the sub toward the trunk opening. You will need to find a 12v trigger in the trunk, I don't know the color of the wire yet, the one in my 2000 E46 was the single wire. Meter it before you connect it to the amp. This wire will throw a 12V when your head unit turns on. AN alternative is to get a AudioControl LC6, it sense the input signals and provides a 12V trigger to turn everything on.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

01-31-2006, 01:19 AM	#3
mocheese New Member 1 Rep 5 Posts Drives: e90 Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: wash dc iTrader: (0)	this is what i would do: check the fuse with a voltmeter check to see if you are getting any power and that you have a good ground connection check to mack sure you didn't disconnect the remote wire see if there is an internal reset botton check to see if your amp doesn't smell like you just fried it. you'll know if you did. smells like a**. if that doesn't work then there is a good chance you got a bad amp. its happened to me a few times.
	Appreciate 0 Quote