[balxoscar]

From the beginning
So the day before yesterday (Monday afternoon)I attempted for my first time to replace spark plugs on my 2007 328i e90. I gathered tools and friends' aid, and together we dismantled the top of engine bay and began removing ignition coils to access the old spark plugs. We followed step by step a video on youtube by FCP Euro. Then when we got to the 5th plug, it was not accessible by our extension because the sway bar was in the way so we loosened both sides so we could slide it over. We rotated it towards the front of car and came across a metal with a positive cap on it (conductor of the battery is my best guess) and we did not disconnect the battery. So we uncovered the bottom of it to loosen it and move it, as soon as the metal on metal touched, sparks flew and the wrench bounced away, we unplugged the battery and continued on to replace all the plugs.
Now everything was put back and started the car fine, but it read the error symbol for engine problem, loss of power. The rpms would drop low and sound like it was about to stall. And there was a ticking noise coming from somewhere along fuel rail/injectors. There are Morimoto halos on, and these would not power on anymore, they only light up at ignition for a second then go off. I left the car running for a couple minutes and it died.
So we tried to put the old spark plugs in to see if that helped and luckily for us, 2 old ones were overtightened and broke off in there.
Had a fun time getting those out, then placed all new plugs in, everything connected as should go and still the ticking and service engine light continued.
I did research and some people with similar problems replaced their crankshaft sensor, and another guy said it was problems with his alternator. But i am most likely thinking the battery was shorted or drained when the metal touched the battery conductor and made the sparks fly? Maybe that's the reason for losing the halos as well? For now my only idea is to take the battery for testing at autozone but i do not know what to do from there. I tried to lurk the forums but no one else seems to have touched the conductor and made the firework show as we did Anyone have any ideas or suggestions that can help? Anything is greatly appreciated as I am still learning as I go along

Update: Found the problem! the power surge sent all the power to the distributor box above the battery, blowing one of the fuses. To the naked eye it seems fine but testing it with a multimeter, there is no current to that one fuse while the other 4 next to it are good conductors. we simply moved the cable to the fuse next to it which was unused, to fit it in the slot, we had to break the plastic to insert the cable and after starting up the car, errors were cleared and ran perfect. Thanks for replies everyone!

[sp1tfire]

I have not a lot of experience in electric circuits of our cars, but you definitely can most likely full out alternator by starting the car using multimeter to get voltage readings (it should be somewhat above 14V when running. If you are getting much more or less - most likely its alternator. (numbers are good for 335i, can't be sure for 328, but i think its pretty much same, as the batteries are alike).

[balxoscar]

Originally Posted by sp1tfire

I have not a lot of experience in electric circuits of our cars, but you definitely can most likely full out alternator by starting the car using multimeter to get voltage readings (it should be somewhat above 14V when running. If you are getting much more or less - most likely its alternator. (numbers are good for 335i, can't be sure for 328, but i think its pretty much same, as the batteries are alike).

Would removing the battery and having it tested at autozone give me the same results as testing the battery while the car is running with the multimeter?
Also, we connected an OB scanner and it read there was an low volts reading in VVT bank 1, what does that mean?

[sp1tfire]

The battery itself is 12V. In order to charge it alternator has to produce 14.xxV. So those are gonna be different results. 1 rules out battery, the other alternator.
Take a look at headlight fuses/maybe check all of them (obviously those that have anything to do with running car/headlight/ignition)

[balxoscar]

Originally Posted by sp1tfire

The battery itself is 12V. In order to charge it alternator has to produce 14.xxV. So those are gonna be different results. 1 rules out battery, the other alternator.
Take a look at headlight fuses/maybe check all of them (obviously those that have anything to do with running car/headlight/ignition)

Oh ok I see, thanks now i know So far i checked all fuses and they are good. Now im going to take the code I got from the OBD2 scanner, P1056, to Autozone and see what info they can get for me.

[PR3CI5N]

Sounds like noisy injectors. How many miles are on the current set?

[balxoscar]

Originally Posted by PR3CI5N

Sounds like noisy injectors. How many miles are on the current set?

Not sure, I would have to get a reach of the previous owner, I got the car at 77k and now I am at 84k. It might be that, but I took the car to autozone and luckily a former BMW mechanic happened to stroll into the shop and he helped me out as well. Once he heard it turn on and struggle to stay idle and with the information that it doesn't go past 30mph, he highly believed I shorted the ECU and that might need replacement. He said the metal on metal contact caused it to go in "limp" mode. So first he recommended me to connect the OBD2 scanner and clear codes, the next step would be to replace the ECU fuse, but to do that i will have to search deep for diagrams on the web.

[Jaronbwall]

You had to move the sway bar and remove all the coils just for spark plugs??

[balxoscar]

Originally Posted by Jarronbwall

You had to move the sway bar and remove all the coils just for spark plugs??

Yes, I didn't have an extension that fit under the sway bar so i had to relocate it and use what i had. As for the coils you have to take them out in order to reach the spark plugs

[Jaronbwall]

Originally Posted by balxoscar

Yes, I didn't have an extension that fit under the sway bar so i had to relocate it and use what i had. As for the coils you have to take them out in order to reach the spark plugs

That's crazy> I love BMW as much as the next guy but damn.

[mojobmw_e90]

Make sure the coil is inserted the correct way and is actually In the Grove between the two tabs

[balxoscar]

Originally Posted by mojobmw_e90

Make sure the coil is inserted the correct way and is actually In the Grove between the two tabs

Made sure of that as a priority! now the car is happy again