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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > Radiator fan starts as I turn on the heater, and drops the temprature...



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      01-16-2016, 02:33 PM   #1
sambrb
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Radiator fan starts as I turn on the heater, and drops the temprature...

I have a BMW 2006 330xi E90.

If I don't turn on the heater, the car works well and the coolant temperature stays around 85 Centigrade (185 Fahrenheit). As soon as I turn on the heater, the radiator fan starts to work and lowers the temperature to 65 Centigrade (149 Fahrenheit).

As soon as the coolant temperature reaches 65 Centigrade (149 Fahrenheit) the radiator fan starts IF THE HEATER IS ON; if the heater is off, the radiator fan does not start.

I live in Canada and it is cold; I don't get much heat from the heater, and it is driving me crazy! Any idea what is going on?
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      01-16-2016, 03:16 PM   #2
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The coolant temperature will drop a bit because the blower blowing on the heater core will bring the coolant temperature down.

You don't get heat? What happens when you press the "max defrost" button on top of the AC button?
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      01-16-2016, 03:23 PM   #3
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I'm in my car waiting and my figure is:
-85-86 with heater on DRIVING
-74 with heater on STOPPED idling
-85-86 with heater off STOPPED idling

I do get hot air coming through though, so much my moonroof is totally open or else I die. Lol

Outside temperature is -24 right now.

Cheers
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      01-16-2016, 03:28 PM   #4
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I was able to get it to 93 by doing the valvetrain bleed procedure (hold 3000RPM for 2 minutes).

See if you can replicate.
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      01-16-2016, 03:34 PM   #5
sambrb
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Thanks,

"blower blowing on the heater core" is correct, but why does the big radiator fan start working too? That significantly lowers the coolant temp.

- Heater off driving I have 75 - 85 centigrade
- Heater on driving I get 65 at best! As soon as the temperature wants to go higher, the radiator fan starts and brings it down.

max defrost is no different from them normal heater in my case; 65 degrees.

I do get a little bit of heat but not enough for Canada! What is your temp driving, with heater off?
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      01-16-2016, 04:08 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sambrb View Post
Thanks,

"blower blowing on the heater core" is correct, but why does the big radiator fan start working too? That significantly lowers the coolant temp.

- Heater off driving I have 75 - 85 centigrade
- Heater on driving I get 65 at best! As soon as the temperature wants to go higher, the radiator fan starts and brings it down.

max defrost is no different from them normal heater in my case; 65 degrees.

I do get a little bit of heat but not enough for Canada! What is your temp driving, with heater off?
When driving my temperature is the same heater on or off.
It stayed at 95-96 when driving back (the car finally came to operating temperature, after 45 minutes). I had the heater on.

You could have a bad sensor, or something else to bring the radiator fan on. Not sure what else you could do to troubleshoot.

If I think of something I'll let you know.

Any fault codes with a OBD2 reader? (BMW specific for shadow codes as well)
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      01-16-2016, 06:46 PM   #7
sambrb
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"When driving my temperature is the same heater on or off." If I had that, I would retire and drive for the rest of my life with the heater on!!! haha! ))); but seriously, thanks a lot for the info.

And, yes I have p0128, replaced thermostat and the coolant sensor already. There might be another sensor related to the heater that is causing the problem? Are you aware of any heater-related sensor?

I also have the following:
Motor Control:
Engine / Motor
Controlled air flow
Code: 2F0D

ABS / DSC / Brake:
Dynamische Stabilitaets Kontrolle / DSC
wheel Tolerance control failure F-CAN
Code: C998

Systems:
Car Communication Computer CCC
Message failure
Code: E18D
Body:
Fussraummodul /FRM
Disturbed communication links with StepperMotorBox
Code: 9CBD

Communication with the right StepperMotorBox disturbed
Code: 9CBE

Heating driver's side mirror
Code: 9CC3
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      01-16-2016, 06:54 PM   #8
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Is your battery new? What's the voltage with engine off/running?
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      01-16-2016, 07:14 PM   #9
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I've left the car with a friend to take a look at it, and I won't have access until Monday night perhaps.

I was in a traffic jam (and I had the p0128 at that time too), and the car simply shut off and I could not turn it back on. I had to do a jump start. My mechanic said the battery was under warranty and he replaced it (I'd assume with a aftermarket battery). I still feel the car hesitates when I press on the gas pedal when on parking, or on takeoff. The same feeling it gave when it shut off suddenly in traffic.

Why? Which error is battery related? Could you please elaborate?

I got the car about 6 months ago, and haven't enjoyed a day since!
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      01-16-2016, 07:21 PM   #10
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Also, I changed the radiator a couple of months ago, and a few days after the p0128 showed up. Could some sensor be unplugged or badly plugged causing these problems? Anyway, I hope I can sort it out in the next couple of days, otherwise have an appointment with a dealer on Thursday for diagnosis.
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      01-16-2016, 07:29 PM   #11
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Everytime there's any electrical related incident in this car I think we should start from the battery.

Did your mechanic register your battery in the system? Not sure it'd cause it, but better be safe.

Sorry about the mishaps with your new car... hope you figure it all out.

I'd start from the battery, clearing all codes using a BMW Tool (I use BMW Carly for iPhone/android) and then see what Else comes up
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      01-16-2016, 07:31 PM   #12
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Did you execute the coolant bleeding procedure?
It's easy in this car.

In other cars I know air in the system will cause the fan to come on at the wrong times. Not sure about this. Please be sure you executed the bleeding procedure properly (holding the gas pedal)
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      01-16-2016, 07:47 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I'm wrong View Post
Did you execute the coolant bleeding procedure?
It's easy in this car.

In other cars I know air in the system will cause the fan to come on at the wrong times. Not sure about this. Please be sure you executed the bleeding procedure properly (holding the gas pedal)
Just purchased the Carly for Android today! I have not done the bleeding myself, maybe the mechanic has done it. I'll do the bleeding on Monday evening hopefully (just found this:
).

Thanks a lot buddy! Do let me know if anything else comes to your mind.
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      01-16-2016, 07:55 PM   #14
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Good luck bud. Hope those will fix it for you.

I'll let you know if I think of something else. hope someone more knowledgeable will chime in.

Cheers
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      01-17-2016, 09:58 PM   #15
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granted i have a 2011 335i... your symptoms were exactly alike to mine but if i left the heat on for long enough the car would have an engine malfunction and eventually say the car was overheating.... that ended up being the water pump
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      01-18-2016, 12:34 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sambrb View Post
Just purchased the Carly for Android today! I have not done the bleeding myself, maybe the mechanic has done it. I'll do the bleeding on Monday evening hopefully (just found this: ).

Thanks a lot buddy! Do let me know if anything else comes to your mind.
That's the correct way to turn it on, but you have to keep the coolant reservoir cap on when you do it. I think he may have taken it off to show you that the pump was working, but it won't bleed correctly if the cap is off. Just leave it on and let the pump run for ~12 minutes and it will do what it needs to do.
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      01-18-2016, 09:58 AM   #17
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$20 says your thermostat is bad...
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      01-18-2016, 10:16 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AllBlackBimmer View Post
$20 says your thermostat is bad...
Yeah...

But one would think the car would have a fault code for it...

Cheers!
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      05-26-2023, 08:30 AM   #19
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Did you find the problem?
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      05-26-2023, 08:31 AM   #20
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Did you find the cause?
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