[N54Society]

I have the VRSF one. Which setting do I put it on? I don't have any instructions except for what BMS has but that doc is for a discontinued product.

As I understand it most people set it to 5 o'clock? I ave it set to 1 o'clock. Do I need to reset adaptation from MHD? I'm back to stock and removed the JB4 for the time being. I've tapped into the small black connector.

Should I see catalyst as ready when it's good to go?




Thanks

[tc535i]

Yup. Go warm the car up. Then cruise between 40-60 mph for like 12 miles iirc. Don't go over 60 or it will exit the monitor.

You should be good on catalyst after that. Evap will come in a few days after several cycles and stoplights.

[N54Society]

Originally Posted by tc535i

Yup. Go warm the car up. Then cruise between 40-60 mph for like 12 miles iirc. Don't go over 60 or it will exit the monitor.

You should be good on catalyst after that. Evap will come in a few days after several cycles and stoplights.

Thanks!

How do you know which setting (clock wise) to set it to? Should I go right to 5 o clock and then drive 12 miles? Also, do I reset adaptation from mhd?
I just updated the first post to show the codes being thrown. Are those the ones you had?

[tc535i]

Not sure on setting, sorry.

[tc535i]

I never had codes, as my flash tune disables rear o2 and the car never completes a failed test cycle

[N54Society]

I just drove for 50 miles and it still reads incomplete. I didn't exceed 60 mph. Occasionally had to let go of the throttle to compensate for down grade as it was getting close to 60mph. Wth am I doing wrong? I didn't exceed 3k or get close to it.

I tried 5 o'clock and this setting, 7 o'clock. This is 7, right? An I reading the dial correctly?



Still getting all three codes although the ses light isn't on after resetting the dme. I suspect I need to put more than the 13 miles I put since resetting the dme for it to reappear?

[jwalker87]

[N54Society]

Originally Posted by jwalker87

Is this supposed to be continuous? One test to another in that chart? Also, how do I decelerate in gear? My car is manual transmission.

[jwalker87]

Never done it myself (getting ready for moving to a state with OBD emissions testing next month) but I believe it's intended to be done continuously. However, I think that if you check all the boxes it doesn't matter if its in one go or not, as long as the engine is at the right temperature for what you're doing.

[N54Society]

I can't believe I can't get this to work. I'm getting these two codes now:

29F4 and 29F5 are normal for DP right?

[N54Society]

Am I doing it right guys?

[N54Society]

[nissubaru]

Originally Posted by N54Society

Why are you bumping this 3 years later? If anyone is reading this, read the instructions on the dpfix or look up the install guide from BMS as it tells you which settings to use. Here's a little bit of it:

With the wires facing away from you, counter-clockwise is stronger, with 1pm being the strongest setting, while
clockwise is weaker, with 11pm disabling the DPFIX all together. Set the DPFIX to 5pm to start. If it is too
strong, you will trigger 2C31/2C32 codes. If it is too weak, you will trigger 29F4/29F5 codes. Once you trigger
2C31/2C32 codes it can be a challenge to get them to clear. Lower the DPFIX setting 1/8 turn, clear all codes,
and reset oxygen sensor/lambda adoptions in the command section. Once 2C31/2C32 codes are triggered they
will continue to come back even after the DPFIX has the appropriate setting, until the ECU runs a series of
internal checks. So rack up the miles on each setting. It can take 20-30 miles of varied highway driving at each
position.

--
After this is when you would follow the diagram you posted. The key I found with that one is to not to go over 3000 rpm I think it is. Also the whole idling thing seems important but mainly for evap

[N54Society]

Originally Posted by nissubaru

Why are you bumping this 3 years later? If anyone is reading this, read the instructions on the dpfix or look up the install guide from BMS as it tells you which settings to use. Here's a little bit of it:

With the wires facing away from you, counter-clockwise is stronger, with 1pm being the strongest setting, while
clockwise is weaker, with 11pm disabling the DPFIX all together. Set the DPFIX to 5pm to start. If it is too
strong, you will trigger 2C31/2C32 codes. If it is too weak, you will trigger 29F4/29F5 codes. Once you trigger
2C31/2C32 codes it can be a challenge to get them to clear. Lower the DPFIX setting 1/8 turn, clear all codes,
and reset oxygen sensor/lambda adoptions in the command section. Once 2C31/2C32 codes are triggered they
will continue to come back even after the DPFIX has the appropriate setting, until the ECU runs a series of
internal checks. So rack up the miles on each setting. It can take 20-30 miles of varied highway driving at each
position.

--
After this is when you would follow the diagram you posted. The key I found with that one is to not to go over 3000 rpm I think it is. Also the whole idling thing seems important but mainly for evap

This is my thread which I use as a reference for future smog fiascos. I found a diagram that I thought was better than the one posted three years ago so I posted it.

Thanks for the tips, those are appreciated as well.