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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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DANGER: Put the tube back after oil change
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02-11-2016, 08:12 AM | #1 |
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So,
Previous owner had an oil change at a tire and brake shop. They pulled out the old filter, the filter support and tube also came out - they threw away all this and put back a brand new filter in the cap, all loose I suppose, and screwed the cap back on. I planned to do an oil change soon but nope - the engine started rattling in all sorts of places all at once. Even though I stopped the car within 100 meters, the damage is done. And it hurts. ![]() The tube inside the oil filter cap. E90 has the 1 small o ring at the tip of the tube and a big ring for the filter cap. I just had an empty cap. Why are the o rings and tube/support so important? The circulation of oil has to be sealed. The tube sends the oil at the back of the filter. Without the tube, the oil just goes in and out of the filter cap and there is empty space so pressure can't be held properly. Yet oil pressure warning never came on. My diagnostic is bad. I hope people read this and you can spread the word: Do your oil change at a BMW indy or DIY! Don't trust the stealers because they are known to make this mistake as well. The victims of this may experience a rattling noise in the FRONT caused by the VANOS. In my case, the VANOS noise was confused with turbo rattle so I ignored it. It only happened a few times a week until all broke down at once. I stopped the car after 100 meters but it was too late. Yes, the engine can run, (with rattling noises), but with cylinder #5 deformation to the crank and u-shaped piston rod bearing, it needs to be disassembled, machined and rebuilt. It's a good thing I stopped immediately but it's a very bad luck that symptoms all appeared at once. I'm starting to feel better and after repairs are done I'll brush this aside and put it behind me. Accidents happen. I'm mad at the mechanic who forgot to put the tube back in, though! It should be pretty obvious for any person, especially a mechanic, that putting the filter LOOSE in the chamber is very wrong. ![]() I am researching about what route to take now. Machining the crank and bearings to perfection by a trusted mechanic is very tempting. Correct me if I'm wrong, machining is much cheaper than swap, especially if there aren't many adjustments. But what could go wrong when rebuilding the engine? A lot. Chris and George (Montreal) know what they're doing - how to adjust the timings and etc - But can they guaranty the engine will work well? I've seen many Alfa Romeo rebuild stories but no experience with BMW so what are your thoughts? Last edited by loknar; 02-11-2016 at 08:37 AM.. |
02-11-2016, 08:31 AM | #2 |
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Sorry to hear about your engine damage. I hope you can find a cost effective rebuild option.
I'm puzzled that the missing tube would allow the oil pressure to drop. The oil pressure is normally held by the limits of the end points (bearings, etc...) and not by the filter. If no oil escaped the housing, I'm not sure how it lost pressure. Is it possible there was a momentary blockage of flow, but no loss of pressure? Perhaps the oil filter collapsed or distorted but the bypass did not work?
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02-11-2016, 08:48 AM | #3 | |
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And yes the filter collapse is the most valid theory. Also maybe just the fact oil was so dirty caused the damage. |
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02-11-2016, 08:59 AM | #4 |
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my cap looks nothing like that....its just a cap, mine presses down firm. so whats sticking out of your cap supposedto down in thw OFH?
i always get the 2 orings but have no idea where the other goes... n52. |
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02-11-2016, 09:19 AM | #6 | |
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02-11-2016, 09:20 AM | #7 | |
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Really? I just changed mine and it looks the same (first post). Filter came with 2 orings (one big, one small, and copper washer for drain plug). N52 as well, give or take he has a N54, but I don't think that's any difference. |
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02-11-2016, 09:35 AM | #8 |
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So basically both of you ended with just a cap, no cage. kinda like this
http://bmwtechnician.com/2015/11/18/...omment-page-1/ |
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02-11-2016, 09:50 AM | #9 |
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What is meant by previous owner had an oil change...was this vehicle purchased used, and why is it known that the oil change was at a tire and brake shop? Just curious, of course the o-rings are needed. If anything, use the old ones, but don't remove them and not replace them. They come with the new filter anyway...
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02-11-2016, 10:05 AM | #10 |
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3 parts: the cap, filter and the important tube/support. Need to use proper rings, proper filter, put in the right way, etc.
![]() For oil change, learn from my ex-owner's mistake. Always go to a good indy even if they charge a 40$ more than your corner shop. As they change the oil maybe they'll find something unusual and you get a FREE checkup worth hundreds of dollars at the stealer. |
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02-11-2016, 10:18 AM | #11 | |
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02-11-2016, 12:32 PM | #12 |
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Man that's a rough experience on a used car. That will probably scar me for life and never buy a used car ever again. Thank you for sharing this as a precautionary tale to other forum members.
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02-11-2016, 12:43 PM | #13 |
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It will scar me for life about car noises and where to perform maintenance tasks. And after buying a used car, always do full maintenance no matter what the dashboard says.
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02-11-2016, 01:16 PM | #14 |
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Uh wow.. so yeah mine does NOT have that center cage deal. Been that way since I got it 15 months ago. I've changed oil a few times and seems ok. Eff me... now I'm worried even though I put 30k on it since buying it
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02-11-2016, 01:16 PM | #15 |
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From now seeing how it's supposed to be... my oil isn't actu5getting filtered
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02-11-2016, 01:20 PM | #16 |
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Wow, a similar story happened to me!!
Took my car to a tire/brake shop. Told them "Just do an oil change while you have it." BAD move. They forgot to change the o ring or used an incorrect ring and I had a nice oil leak for a while which caused my serpentine belt to start squealing. Lesson learned. Either DIY your own oil changes or only give it to a shop who knows how to do a BMW oil change properly. |
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02-11-2016, 01:29 PM | #17 |
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Not sure the hate for the dealer on this. One would think that they would do the best job. Not to mention more recourse if it goes wrong. With an $80 coat and free loaner, seems kind of like one of the few no brainier thins in favor of the dealer.
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02-11-2016, 01:33 PM | #18 |
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Yeah I agree, until I DIY'd I only went to the dealer. The most I paid was $79.95, there was a time when I got as low as $54.95. When you add a free loaner, it's almost a no-brainer. But then I discovered the 0W40 Mobil 1 Euro (and there is a Castrol as well) for $24.xx per 5 qt.
I got smoked by a used car seller too when I was 18, he sold me a car with blown head gaskets (V6) and he put stop leak to make the sale. I took him to court AND LOST, even when he admitted what he did. Nice. I found a salvage yard who put a used motor/tranny in for $900 (a lot considering the car was $2000), but it lasted me 6.5 yrs. |
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02-11-2016, 01:48 PM | #19 | |
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Not going to dealer is a personal choice. I like to encourage small businesses and I feel I get a more personalized service. Chose an independent garage based on expert forum feedback. |
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02-11-2016, 01:54 PM | #20 |
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I get Vanos codes... not nearly as much as I used to... but I've cleaned and swapped many times... maybe that is stemming from not having the cage...
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02-11-2016, 02:02 PM | #21 | |
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I don't worry about whom I'm supporting, I worry about who is honest and offering a fair price for what they are doing. Indy $160 for a brake flush, when dealer with free loaner $120? No thanks. |
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02-11-2016, 02:16 PM | #22 |
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filter, oil, pressure, tube, warning |
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