[mr.teejay]

Hey guys, I responded on Mr.5's thread with some of my questions but haven't gotten a response over a couple days. I've been researching on the wastegate rattle issue and what to do about it or to just let it stay as is... according to a bunch of different sources.

I got the noticeable rattle around a year ago or so, I began to notice it between 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd gear shifts mainly after a cold start. Also, when at idle and the revs fall, the rattle occurs.

I found Mr. 5's thread and ended up trying it out on my car (it's an 08 and with 92k miles, probably has never had the WG rods touched), I know that OP went about 2.5 revs, but for me hand tight was probably 7-8 revolutions (according to a another video post to go 'hand-tight'). Though after driving it, thought 'should I loosened it back a bit??'

I've found more recently that adjusting the rod on one wastegate can upset the balance between both turbos to hold the proper level of boost, so now I'm like crap I should try to roughly adjust it back to where it was...

Basically, I wanted to see if I could consolidate advice into a list of what to do to prolong the turbo life till they eventually go out.

Should I let the rattle stay (in the condition it's at, nothing is smoking thankfully, although the car does consume some oil 1/2 quart 5k miles) or should I do (any of) the following:

-check my vacuum lines to make sure they are in good shape
-Attach a vacuum and then adjust the rods to see where they are closing properly
-re-install my JB4 for boost level monitoring and to adjust the wastegate position
-other ideas (idk if I wanna modify the actual actuator/arm)???

Welcome any advice to the bullets above, I haven't gone through all the attempted solutions. I still love the car (regardless of all the issues so far..... and I haven't even started heavy modding yet ) and finally decided to join the forum Appreciate any insight!

[Sgop335]

Howdy tj. Waste gate rattle is not bad by itself so honestly wouldnt mess w the actuator rod. As long as you are boosting fine and not have a 30ff code.

You say 1/2 qt in 5k, thats quite excellent and there is no need to fix anything

As for others esp. If ite never been done its good prevent maint.

Vacuum lines...yes good silicone hose 4mm works well...altho be careful not to break barbs.

I just did this today, used a 100cc or up syringe w a vacuum gage teed and checked both my wastegates. Heard a metallic sound when it closed. They both did well closed around 7in vacuum. They also held vacuum very well. So checks out. I have wg rattle btw. Made no adjustments!

Also checked my boost solenoids with a gage connected while driving, but im chasing a 30ff code...

[mr.teejay]

Thanks for the info Sgop and the welcome Figured browsing forums could only get me so far for so long, eventually had to start participating lol since this engine seems to be pretty finicky but worth it. I'm gonna loosen the rod back up then and guesstimate where it should be...unfortunately I didn't keep exact track. Can you or anyone tell me how much thread of the rod is showing or should be showing? Or can I tell what's right by just adjusting and listening from the engine bay without being able to actually look at the wastegate?

So for checking the vacuum state, did you just connect it to a line and use the syringe and pull back on it to maintain a vacuum? All from engine bay or underneath the car (to get a better view or did you go by sound)?

I need to put my jb4 back in, took it out when my water pump crapped out and on top of that had my SAS go out so it's just been one thing after another lol. So just catching up on the fixes.

[Sgop335]

Yes, connected the syringe directly to each wg line and pull, car off of course. You can see the rear rod move and listen closely to hear distinct sound. Front cant see anything go all by sound.