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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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So what brand brake pads people using?
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03-27-2016, 07:06 PM | #1 |
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So what brand brake pads people using?
Going to need a full brake overhaul soon. I'm actually pretty happy with the OEM pads on our 2011 D in regards to bite and acceptable dusting. BMW's newer formulations seem much better with dust generated. I'm easy on brakes so don't need any big upgrades. I've used Akebono Euro ceramics on other cars, and while there is nearly zero dust, the initial bite is not there. But that was many years ago.
If you changed pads, what did you use and what was your experience. Thanks! |
03-28-2016, 07:13 AM | #3 |
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Last fall I put on Hawks HPS. It certainly has a better initial bite as well low dust. The original OEM brakes were not bad with dust, but the second set of brakes the dealership replaced them with were really bad.
I felt the difference between the Hawks and OEM brake pads recently when I had a 328 loaner. The loaner had much less braking power than what I was used too with the Hawks. |
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03-28-2016, 07:16 AM | #4 | |
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Thanks for the tip on the Hawks. I know BMW had a pad composition change around 2010. When you got the replacement pads it must have been the old formulation. |
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03-28-2016, 07:26 AM | #5 |
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Personally, after doing a lot of research on dusting, glazing, cold weather, noise and performance. I like stop tech street performance. Some of these after market pads can be scary when wet and or cold. The stop tech street performance were fantastic, high fade resistance, no squeeel, and could handle repeated hard stops from 100Mph, without issue.
If you really want to improve braking feel, changing pads is pretty minor, it has more of an impact on fade resistance and modulation. Basically for street performance (other than dust), the stop techs are good in the cold, wet, have excellent modulation ability, and don't fade. Unfortunately the better the pad in general the more dust. Its like ride and handling. The better the fade resistance, typically the worse the pad performs when cold. The better the stopping power the more dust. Glazing resistance = More dust and faster wear of the rotors, BTW different pads wear rotors at different rates. Replacing the front brake caliper rubber encased caliper pins with solid caliper pins will make a big difference in brake feel and modulation. More so than adding stainless brake lines. Of course it comes at the expensive of having to lube the pins 1x a year, and sometimes you develop a bit of caliper rattle. |
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03-28-2016, 10:36 AM | #7 |
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I have the STOP TECH disc and Hawks APS and they stop this monster very well indeed
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03-28-2016, 04:24 PM | #10 |
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I've had good luck with Akebono ceramic pads (US Made) and also WearEver ceramic pads (Made in India - Advance Auto Parts).
The ceramic pads produce a lot less visible brake dust.
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03-28-2016, 04:39 PM | #11 |
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03-28-2016, 06:36 PM | #12 | |
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Found a good deal on Amazon: Hawk Performance HB551F.748 HPS ($83.70) two front sensors included. Hawk Performance HB624F.642 HPS ($72.91) no rear sesnors included. |
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04-09-2016, 03:17 PM | #13 |
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The ceramic pads produce a lot less dust (almost none) but don't have the bite of OEM.
Hawk HPS are good for OEM bite but overkill if you're not taking it on a track IMO and they are quite a bit more money. At the recommendation of Turner Motorsport I went with Centric PosiQuiet Semi-Metallic ($43.89 F / R $33.73 on RockAuto) and have no complaints. They seem to have OEM bite, low dust and the price is great. They even came with new caliper bushings so I replaced those as well (they didn't come with sensors however, you require 1 front, 1 rear) Turner Motorsport has a nice overview of the options here: https://www.turnermotorsport.com/t-b...ide-brake-pads |
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06-03-2016, 02:07 PM | #14 | |
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I did get a lot of brake dust though. This was after one 30 minute session: |
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06-03-2016, 04:15 PM | #15 |
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If you do track days but don't want to swap pads, try hawk HP+'s on the front and the HPS on the rear. To go one step up from there, try pagid rs4-2-1 up front and HP+'s on the rear.
Another tip is that after you come back in from a run and the car has been sitting for 2-3 minutes, put it in neutral and roll the car forward or backward so that the area of the rotor that was under the pads is no longer so. This cuts down on cracked rotors. The different pads may help the boiling fluid or it may not. Just throwing out a few tips I've learned. |
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06-03-2016, 05:24 PM | #16 |
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I have always used oe on my Bimmers. For me, they are a great all around pad. My wife's X5d needs front and rear pads now and I am going to try Centric 100 series oe formulation and Wagner OEX from our stock. Our Wagner/Federal Mogul reps demonstration of the OEX was pretty kickass. I will let you guys know my results.
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06-03-2016, 10:22 PM | #17 |
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This, i'm looking to swap do all 4 corners pads and rotors. maybe even SS lines.
I've used Hawk HPS pads on other vehicles and always liked them. Not sure what i'm doing for rotors. Stop Techs are nice, i've used those before. |
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06-04-2016, 06:28 AM | #18 | |
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06-05-2016, 09:37 PM | #19 |
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Here is a good article on warped rotors...
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths In summary: "In fact every case of "warped brake disc" that I have investigated, whether on a racing car or a street car, has turned out to be friction pad material transferred unevenly to the surface of the disc. This uneven deposition results in thickness variation (TV) or run-out due to hot spotting that occurred at elevated temperatures." If you're driving spiritedly or hammer on the brakes to stop at a light, don't hold the brakes down when stopped, put the car in park or neutral. This prevents the uneven distribution of brake pad material. Also, take the time to properly bed the brake pads when installed. If your rotors are giving the undulated feeling, you could try bedding the pads again, or just have the rotors re-surfaced. |
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06-16-2016, 12:51 PM | #22 |
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So it seems the Hawks HPS pads are legit amongst other great choices as well.
What about the rotors? 1) OEM 2) Slotted 3) Cross-Drilled rears? Or slotted/cross-drilled rears? My rotors are all warped and they need replacing (must have been the C7 battle) ![]() UPDATE: I went ahead and stayed with the oem brake pads and rotors. They seemed to do well with my last BMW. |
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