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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > Forge diverter valve issue .... Can't bloody unscrew one



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      03-28-2016, 09:14 AM   #1
Flex68
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Forge diverter valve issue .... Can't bloody unscrew one

Ok so I decided to change springs on the valve .... Unscrewed the first one no issues .... The second one no matter what I tried ( using bubble wrap , using any wrap to the point I blistered my hands ) can't unscrew the second valve ....do they both unscrew the same direction??? Any tips on how to fkd get it unscrewed .... I ended up putting the stock valves back on .
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      03-28-2016, 10:09 AM   #2
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Duct tape + channel lock pliers worked for me. You could use some other kind of padding on the jaws to protect the metal on the DV.
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      03-28-2016, 10:13 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajsalida View Post
Duct tape + channel lock pliers worked for me. You could use some other kind of padding on the jaws to protect the metal on the DV.
Thanks for the reply . Do they both unscrew the same direction??
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      03-28-2016, 02:28 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flex68 View Post
Thanks for the reply . Do they both unscrew the same direction??
As far as I remember yes.
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      03-28-2016, 05:17 PM   #5
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I just had this issue, what I did was tighten the hose clamp on the end that comes off until it was absurdly tight, and then twisted. the silicone hose grips the end really well if it's tight enough. then I took the cap out of the hose to service the springs.
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      03-29-2016, 02:46 AM   #6
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If you have the smooth version, double sided foam tape did the trick for me.
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      03-29-2016, 03:03 AM   #7
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Ok finally got it done ....now forge is really pissing me off not replying to emails . Does anyone know if I need the shims or not ??? And where they actually sit in the valve ??? I can't find shit on Google
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      03-29-2016, 06:40 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flex68 View Post
Ok finally got it done ....now forge is really pissing me off not replying to emails . Does anyone know if I need the shims or not ??? And where they actually sit in the valve ??? I can't find shit on Google
How much boost are you running? An aggressive tune/FBO you'll need yellow springs, a lighter tune (stg1, no downpipes/intercooler) you can use the green ones. No idea about shims... Green springs are for 5-15psi and yellow are for 15-23psi
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      03-29-2016, 07:00 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mg4734 View Post
How much boost are you running? An aggressive tune/FBO you'll need yellow springs, a lighter tune (stg1, no downpipes/intercooler) you can use the green ones. No idea about shims... Green springs are for 5-15psi and yellow are for 15-23psi
yeah the DV had yellow in them so i put green ones in but dont know about the shim / spacer things...i just added one and well see how that goes tmw. I dont even know if i put the shim / spacers in the correct location but it was the only logical place to put them. also on one of the valve body slight scuff marks so dont know if that affects performance but i cleaned and re greased everything well so hopefully they will hold up.
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      03-29-2016, 07:03 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flex68 View Post
yeah the DV had yellow in them so i put green ones in but dont know about the shim / spacer things...i just added one and well see how that goes tmw. I dont even know if i put the shim / spacers in the correct location but it was the only logical place to put them. also on one of the valve body slight scuff marks so dont know if that affects performance but i cleaned and re greased everything well so hopefully they will hold up.
Mine are super scuffed up from my attempts to open them after 10k miles of heat cycling... no affect on performance. And on my car they make contact with the engine bay by the strut housing, there is a bump on the metal that the front valve rubs against.

I would think the shim goes in first before the spring and piston, not sure cuz I don't use them.
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      03-29-2016, 07:11 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mg4734 View Post
Mine are super scuffed up from my attempts to open them after 10k miles of heat cycling... no affect on performance. And on my car they make contact with the engine bay by the strut housing, there is a bump on the metal that the front valve rubs against.

I would think the shim goes in first before the spring and piston, not sure cuz I don't use them.
are u using yellow???
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      03-29-2016, 07:13 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flex68 View Post
are u using yellow???
I just switched from yellow to green because the tune I was running was too aggressive for the supporting parts I have. I am currently running green with no shims
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      03-29-2016, 07:17 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mg4734 View Post
I just switched from yellow to green because the tune I was running was too aggressive for the supporting parts I have. I am currently running green with no shims

ok cool ...notice any difference??? do you recall the valve was stiff to get out at all?? when i press on the valve the first push seem sticky but then its ok and springy if that makes sense. This is dispite re-greasing the units
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      03-29-2016, 07:19 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flex68 View Post
ok cool ...notice any difference??? do you recall the valve was stiff to get out at all?? when i press on the valve the first push seem sticky but then its ok and springy if that makes sense. This is dispite re-greasing the units
Yeah, that happens on mine too. Just got to get them seated right by pushing the piston in before screwing the cap on. In terms of difference... mainly related to the tune I changed at the same time. The valves are more responsive than the stock diverter valves though.
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