[slickBB1]

So I put everything back together ready to start after installing a 335is clutch into my 335xi N55. I did have to remove the slave cylinder during the process and installed it. Am I supposed to bleed the clutch after a clutch swap? I did not do the CDV mod. The pedal is stuck to the floor currently.

[Dhillon92]

After a clutch install I would do the CDV mod and bleed it for sure.

[slickBB1]

Originally Posted by Dhillon92

After a clutch install I would do the CDV mod and bleed it for sure.

Maybe I should do that. I am attempting to bleed the slave cylinder now and it's not bleeding. Pumping the clutch and no fluid comes out (nipple undone). Thinking tbe slave cylinder is bad but not sure why it would go bad all of a sudden after a clutch install. Car only has 50k miles.

[jwzimm]

Is there fluid in the brake reservoir? You have to keep the brake fluid topped up while you bleed the clutch or you will run the master cylinder dry. There is a separator in the reservoir so you can run the clutch dry and you will see fluid in there.

[slickBB1]

Originally Posted by jwzimm

Is there fluid in the brake reservoir? You have to keep the brake fluid topped up while you bleed the clutch or you will run the master cylinder dry. There is a separator in the reservoir so you can run the clutch dry and you will see fluid in there.

It was kept at max level. I have a feeling what happened was I installed the slave cylinder in at an angle and it never made contact with the clutch lever so it blew out the the seals the first time I went to press the clutch pedal which explains the brake fluid coming out of the slave cylinder boot.

I have a new slave cylinder coming along with the modded clutch delay valve. I hope this is the culprit. I can't see anything being installed wrong on the clutch lever install or TOB, there's really only one way to install those and the TOB already came attached to the clutch lever, I replaced the plastic fork pin with a metal one and reattached the spring properly.

[slickBB1]

Alright. I'm stumped guys. I installed the new slave cylinder and clutch delay valve. Slave cylinder still does not bleed. The fluid isn't even lowering in the reservoir. I undo the bleeder valve on the slave and pump the clutch and I can hear the air squeaking out of the bleeder but no fluid is coming out and I'm not gaining any pedal resistance. I even threw in a vacuum hand pump and no fluid flowing down still. Any ideas?

[slickBB1]

Alright guys, I installed a new slave cylinder and master clutch cylinder. I got some fluid to leak out the bleeder on the slave this time and the bleeder was loosened plenty. Same problem, pedal gains no resistance and sticks to the floor. I'm out of ideas and it looks like it may just be towed to a shop at this point.

[puppydax]

Just to double check, are you using the reservoir underneath the cowl cover or the black canister in the engine bay?

[slickBB1]

Originally Posted by puppydax

Just to double check, are you using the reservoir underneath the cowl cover or the black canister in the engine bay?

I'm using the reservoir underneath the cowl.

[slickBB1]

Problem is fixed and it was a stupid overlooked mistake! Master cylinder was not even the issue.

The reservoir was filled to a level between MIN and MAX so I assumed it would be full enough to bleed. IT WAS NOT. Shined a flashlight through the reservoir (both brake and clutch use same reservoir so there are separate chambers) and noticed the clutch chamber was empty! You have to fill up the reservoir even higher than just above the MIN line so it reaches the channel that flows into the clutch chamber so I filled it all the way up to the rim of the reservoir and sure enough the clutch chamber filled up. Slave cylinder bled perfectly fine after and now the car is back on the ground and running.

It was definitely misleading with the MIN and MAX marks and you can't really tell where the wall is that's dividing the chambers unless you shine a light down at the reservoir.

[Ozzie335i]

Great news. Better than having to yank that bad boy tranny out again for a look see. Time for the 500 miles of proper break in. As mentioned upthread, the CDV is highly recommended. Since you've done the bleed a few times, it should only take you 30 minutes tops for the install.

[fareast1]

Good info, glad you solved it!

[slickBB1]

Originally Posted by Ozzie335i

Great news. Better than having to yank that bad boy tranny out again for a look see. Time for the 500 miles of proper break in. As mentioned upthread, the CDV is highly recommended. Since you've done the bleed a few times, it should only take you 30 minutes tops for the install.

I did the CDV mod when replacing the slave cylinder and it is a much much better pedal feel, it feels like how it should from factory.

[Ozzie335i]

Good move slick. Well worth the 20 bucks. Agree that it should have been that way from the factory. They were trying to compensate for people that do not know how to use a clutch.

[jwzimm]

Originally Posted by slickBB1

Problem is fixed and it was a stupid overlooked mistake! Master cylinder was not even the issue.

The reservoir was filled to a level between MIN and MAX so I assumed it would be full enough to bleed. IT WAS NOT. Shined a flashlight through the reservoir (both brake and clutch use same reservoir so there are separate chambers) and noticed the clutch chamber was empty! You have to fill up the reservoir even higher than just above the MIN line so it reaches the channel that flows into the clutch chamber so I filled it all the way up to the rim of the reservoir and sure enough the clutch chamber filled up. Slave cylinder bled perfectly fine after and now the car is back on the ground and running.

It was definitely misleading with the MIN and MAX marks and you can't really tell where the wall is that's dividing the chambers unless you shine a light down at the reservoir.

Yup, as I said in my previous post, you have the keep the reservoir completely topped up.

Also, too late now but FYI, you can convert your CDV into a non-CDV very easily when it is out. There is a restrictor pill inside the valve. All you need to do is take a thin punch from the thinner side and push it out. Boom, you have the non-restricted CDV that comes in the M3.