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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Suspension | Brakes | Chassis > EASIEST way to install front struts?



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      05-14-2016, 05:14 AM   #1
deeLow
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Looking for info on the best way; Leave the tophat still tight and undo the clevis, then push the hub down to free bottom of strut? This is how I have done suspension on plenty of other cars and worked every time, only difference being how it's held together in the steering knuckle...

What's this "other" method of undoing control arm bolts/other things at the bottom to let the top of the strut come out the fender first?

No need for a spring compressor as I have a complete strut already built; just have to swap full assembly.
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      05-14-2016, 09:34 AM   #2
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I don't think the LCA's drop down far enough for you to just take the strut out from the way you've been doing it.

It's really simple though and pretty similar. Losen the LCA's while having the top hats held in place with a single nut. Then drop the strut down, free it out with that weird strut socket thing (forgot the name of it), and rotate the strut out of the fender.
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      05-14-2016, 10:13 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrecker335d
I don't think the LCA's drop down far enough for you to just take the strut out from the way you've been doing it.

It's really simple though and pretty similar. Losen the LCA's while having the top hats held in place with a single nut. Then drop the strut down, free it out with that weird strut socket thing (forgot the name of it), and rotate the strut out of the fender.
Where does my floor jack come in? I have to retorque a bolt with cars suspension loaded correct?
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      05-14-2016, 10:27 AM   #4
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Loosen all the lca and strut bolts on the sub Frame size, once u do this the brake hub can travel down almost to the floor, this will give u clearance to remove the strut out
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      05-14-2016, 03:43 PM   #5
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You've got the complete assembly, so you can avoid the hard part! Recommend loosening the bottom bolts first and making sure the strut body is loose (it does not necessarily have to be removed so long as it is really loose). Then, unbolt the 3 strut mount nuts. If bottom is removed, it will fall out. If bottom was just loose, then you can tilt the strut out and pull out the bottom.
Good luck, Chris
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      05-14-2016, 04:03 PM   #6
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I have done quite few e9x and for me removing the tie rod from the upright helps me more so than losening up control arms.
Important > tape the edge of the fender as is super easy to scuff it.
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      05-14-2016, 04:29 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris@strutmonkey
You've got the complete assembly, so you can avoid the hard part! Recommend loosening the bottom bolts first and making sure the strut body is loose (it does not necessarily have to be removed so long as it is really loose). Then, unbolt the 3 strut mount nuts. If bottom is removed, it will fall out. If bottom was just loose, then you can tilt the strut out and pull out the bottom.
Good luck, Chris
What bottom bolts, for the LCA?
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      05-14-2016, 05:01 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deeLow View Post
What bottom bolts, for the LCA?
He is referring to the bolt on the knuckle, the clevis, that keeps the strut body tight into the socket. Even with this bolt loosen up or removed is rather difficult to remove the strut. I recommend purchasing a spreader toll.
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      05-14-2016, 05:24 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feuer
Quote:
Originally Posted by deeLow View Post
What bottom bolts, for the LCA?
He is referring to the bolt on the knuckle, the clevis, that keeps the strut body tight into the socket. Even with this bolt loosen up or removed is rather difficult to remove the strut. I recommend purchasing a spreader toll.
Ok, so are you recommending taking out the tie rod bolt and that's it; then the clevis etc etc??
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      05-14-2016, 06:52 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deeLow View Post
Ok, so are you recommending taking out the tie rod bolt and that's it; then the clevis etc etc??
I always do the clevis first. If you are not able to free the strut in the clevis first then losening up every thing else not only that it will make loosening the clevis harder but it would be pointless as you can't remove the strut anyways.
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      05-14-2016, 08:09 PM   #11
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      05-15-2016, 08:23 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deeLow View Post
Looking for info on the best way; Leave the tophat still tight and undo the clevis, then push the hub down to free bottom of strut? This is how I have done suspension on plenty of other cars and worked every time, only difference being how it's held together in the steering knuckle...

What's this "other" method of undoing control arm bolts/other things at the bottom to let the top of the strut come out the fender first?

No need for a spring compressor as I have a complete strut already built; just have to swap full assembly.

Immense strength may eliminate the need for spring compression. Recommend you contact former California Gov.

Rest of us? We boogie -- down to Sears for spring compressors. Unless you maybe got Eibach linear springs - they'll have no preload, in fact look loose.

So. Three nuts up top; one pinch clamp low. Easy!


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      05-15-2016, 08:27 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feuer View Post
He is referring to the bolt on the knuckle, the clevis, that keeps the strut body tight into the socket. Even with this bolt loosen up or removed is rather difficult to remove the strut. I recommend purchasing a spreader tool.

Here's mine:





Slips right into clevis slot - turn - she loose! Good maybe twice before rounded.


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      05-15-2016, 08:31 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deeLow View Post
Where does my floor jack come in? I have to retorque a bolt with cars suspension loaded correct?

Correct.


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      05-15-2016, 08:36 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feuer View Post
I have done quite few e9x and for me removing the tie rod from the upright helps me more so than losening up control arms.
Important > tape the edge of the fender as is super easy to scuff it.

I don't loosen nothin' - except strut mounting bolts top & bottom. Strut tilts right out when top disconnected; then just lift outta pinch/clevis. CAREFUL! Paint easily scratched, top studs.


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      05-15-2016, 09:28 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CALWATERBOY
Quote:
Originally Posted by feuer View Post
I have done quite few e9x and for me removing the tie rod from the upright helps me more so than losening up control arms.
Important > tape the edge of the fender as is super easy to scuff it.

I don't loosen nothin' - except strut mounting bolts top & bottom. Strut tilts right out when top disconnected; then just lift outta pinch/clevis. CAREFUL! Paint easily scratched, top studs.


The only problem with the way you do it for me is I won't have spring compressors on hand. I already have a fully built assembly, no need for me to compress anything to R&R. If undoing another bolt or 2 to help me achieve this, no problem I'll do it.
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      05-16-2016, 09:34 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mojobmw_e90
Loosen all the lca and strut bolts on the sub Frame size, once u do this the brake hub can travel down almost to the floor, this will give u clearance to remove the strut out
#1... You will use your jack to raise the hub up while setting the three bolts in the top hat through the strut tower..
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