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      06-11-2016, 01:57 PM   #1
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vrsf fmic and charge pipe install - need advice or pointers

I emailed VRSF directly a few times with no reply so I am here seeking advice. I am going to attempt to install both at the same time, is there an order in which you guys would recommend doing the install? There seems to be a lot of parts/clamps and i'm wondering will I be using everything supplied even though I am not using the OEM CP? Any advice or words of wisdom to make the process easier? I found a video with a decent FMIC install but nothing like a good how to guide that gives me 100% confidence. Im pretty handy, I did brakes and rotors and stuff on my own so I think I can knock it out in an afternoon. Advice?

Last edited by elite.; 06-11-2016 at 02:51 PM..
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      06-11-2016, 02:13 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elite.
I emailed VRSF directly a few times with no reply so I am here seeking advice. I am going to attempt to install both at the same time, is there an order in which you guys would recommend doing the install? There seems to be a lot of parts/clamps and i'm wondering will I be using everything supplied even though I am not using the OEM CP? Any advice or words of wisdom to make the process easier? I found a video with a decent FMIC install but nothing like a good how to guide that gives me 100% confidence. Im pretty handy, I did brakes and rotors and stuff on my own so I think I can knock it out in an afternoon. Advice?
I knocked them both out in my garage in an afternoon. Took me about 5 hours, only because I didn't take the bumper off and was trying to trim the IC shroud with a knife. Eventually I got the Dremel out and the shroud was cut in a minute.

That was really the only hiccup. CP is a piece of cake - just do what everyone says and take your time seating it at the TB. I put in a Tial BOV same time and install was very straight forward using the DIYs on here.
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      06-11-2016, 02:50 PM   #3
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I'll take your advice and start up top. I was under the impression with the 5" fmic there is no trimming required, is that not correct? I have the 5" step version.
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      06-11-2016, 03:42 PM   #4
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Silicone lubricant will make your life a lot easier. Just apply a little bit and your couplers/fittings will slide together much easier. I like to let it dry for an hour or two before starting the car.
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      06-11-2016, 03:50 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elite. View Post
I emailed VRSF directly a few times with no reply so I am here seeking advice. I am going to attempt to install both at the same time, is there an order in which you guys would recommend doing the install? There seems to be a lot of parts/clamps and i'm wondering will I be using everything supplied even though I am not using the OEM CP? Any advice or words of wisdom to make the process easier? I found a video with a decent FMIC install but nothing like a good how to guide that gives me 100% confidence. Im pretty handy, I did brakes and rotors and stuff on my own so I think I can knock it out in an afternoon. Advice?
I'll be in the same boat as you next weekend as I've recently ordered the same, albeit the 7" IC.

good luck.

Let's us know how it goes.
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      06-11-2016, 05:03 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elite.
I'll take your advice and start up top. I was under the impression with the 5" fmic there is no trimming required, is that not correct? I have the 5" step version.
Did you get the optional IC pipe upgrade? Helps a ton as well. Hardest thing is tightening the IC clamps with the bumper still on - I pretty much had to tighten the clamps 1/8 rotation at a time. Make sure everything is TIGHT and drive around when done before reinstalling cowl. Lots of fittings and potential boost leaks.

Edit: FWIW I have the 7" -- the 5" should be pretty much completely plug and play.
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      06-11-2016, 09:07 PM   #7
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I did get the $30 lower charge pipe upgrade, yup. It apparently is required on 09+
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      06-12-2016, 09:48 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elite. View Post
I emailed VRSF directly a few times with no reply so I am here seeking advice. I am going to attempt to install both at the same time, is there an order in which you guys would recommend doing the install? There seems to be a lot of parts/clamps and i'm wondering will I be using everything supplied even though I am not using the OEM CP? Any advice or words of wisdom to make the process easier? I found a video with a decent FMIC install but nothing like a good how to guide that gives me 100% confidence. Im pretty handy, I did brakes and rotors and stuff on my own so I think I can knock it out in an afternoon. Advice?
Really easy I did 7" Intercooler and the vrsf downpipes in about 3- 4 hours, but also i did this before on my other 335xi so I knew how. And yes you will use all the clamps they gave you.
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      06-12-2016, 09:51 AM   #9
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Maybe I'm too confident but it doesn't seem that complicated. Especially doing the cp at the same time it seems like I can get it all adjusted and then go through and tighten clamps. Think it's ok to use white lithium or something I have laying around to lube the silicone plumbing a bit to make it easy to twist onto the aluminum parts?
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      06-12-2016, 10:38 AM   #10
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I don't know that I'd use grease - you don't want the parts to be permanently lubricated. I'd go with something that dries and loses its lubrication quality when it does so. Try mixing a few drops of dawn soap in warm water. That should work. Just make sure you let it dry before starting the engine.
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      06-12-2016, 03:39 PM   #11
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BOV snap ring was a little tough for me. Definitely use the specific "pliers" for the snap ring.
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      06-12-2016, 08:36 PM   #12
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Did the install. Immediately went array and car told me loss of power, you may drive but blah blah blah. The fit was shit, the cp is loose up top under the air box like some videos I saw online. The plumbing all seems shy of where it needs to be. The nuts provided almost pull through the aluminum so I had to use a washer (not a big deal) and in the end it was a day of hell and now the car isn't running right. Really disappointing. I know I have everything routed correctly, it all mimics stock form but thing rub, things arent long enough, it's just sketchy. I emailed vsrf 3 times before I started with no reply. Mike at XP is out of town but I guess I can email the vendor I bought it from. Idk what I'll do. I spend all day and I really don't want to get under the car again. I'm sure something just came apart but still annoying as s#!t.
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      06-12-2016, 10:12 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elite. View Post
Did the install. Immediately went array and car told me loss of power, you may drive but blah blah blah. The fit was shit, the cp is loose up top under the air box like some videos I saw online. The plumbing all seems shy of where it needs to be. The nuts provided almost pull through the aluminum so I had to use a washer (not a big deal) and in the end it was a day of hell and now the car isn't running right. Really disappointing. I know I have everything routed correctly, it all mimics stock form but thing rub, things arent long enough, it's just sketchy. I emailed vsrf 3 times before I started with no reply. Mike at XP is out of town but I guess I can email the vendor I bought it from. Idk what I'll do. I spend all day and I really don't want to get under the car again. I'm sure something just came apart but still annoying as s#!t.
Relax bro. Take your time on install. From what I've seen, fitment isn't really a common issue at all anymore, but just installed error. A little movement at the throttle body doesn't seem to cause issues, as the o-ring is the main thing you should be worried about.
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      06-12-2016, 10:18 PM   #14
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I kinda figured the same. Oring got moved to new cp. Once all mounted it's not that bad but I took note. Anyway I'm till in limp mode. Drivable but no boost. Obv a vacuum leak somewhere but it's nearly impossible to tighten fittings. Everything is short. I took my time. Confirmed the shape of the plumbing before hand. At a loss. Kind of a bummer.
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      06-12-2016, 10:27 PM   #15
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Are you using a BOV or DVs? Is the vacuum line for that attached?
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      06-12-2016, 10:30 PM   #16
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DVs. When I reassembled it was all in place. I wish it was something that easy. I'm thinking something closer to the intercooler vs cp. Something had to come off. Hopefully I'm ok to drive it to the shop.
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      06-12-2016, 10:34 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elite. View Post
I kinda figured the same. Oring got moved to new cp. Once all mounted it's not that bad but I took note. Anyway I'm till in limp mode. Drivable but no boost. Obv a vacuum leak somewhere but it's nearly impossible to tighten fittings. Everything is short. I took my time. Confirmed the shape of the plumbing before hand. At a loss. Kind of a bummer.
The VRSF charge pipe includes an o-ring slightly bigger than the stock one I believe.
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      06-12-2016, 11:14 PM   #18
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Mine didn't come with an oring. I used the stock one.
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      06-13-2016, 07:31 AM   #19
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Hopefully you that oring is your problem. Curious to see what the issue is.
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      06-13-2016, 09:42 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elite. View Post
Mine didn't come with an oring. I used the stock one.
I believe the VRSF o-ring is a little thicker than the stock o-ring so that may be your problem.

I guess one annoying part of my VRSF chargepipe is the way my chargepipe is angled and the placement of the DV makes it so my DVs are very close to or rubbing against the side of the car... and no matter how much i tighten the clamps, after miles of spirited driving they eventually slip right off.
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      06-13-2016, 10:37 AM   #21
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Do wtf do u do then......if they eventually are going to come off?
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      06-13-2016, 11:17 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elite. View Post
Do wtf do u do then......if they eventually are going to come off?
I spend 20-30 minutes putting the silicon elbow back on the lower chargepipe and retighten the clamps LOL... gets annoying. but maybe it's just me having this issue.

For the FMIC I had zero issues, and it does a great job at lowering AIT
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