[sloweste9x]

I just installed silicone one piece VRSF OEM location inlets and the front inlet is hitting the largest pulley on the serpentine belt. It's a pretty tight fit. Is there any solution to this? It was rubbing so badly that it was smoking


Other than that the inlets seem really cool and durable. Hopefully I can get this resolved soon. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

[talhagursoy]

Originally Posted by mb21111

I just installed silicone one piece VRSF OEM location inlets and the front inlet is hitting the largest pulley on the serpentine belt. It's a pretty tight fit. Is there any solution to this? It was rubbing so badly that it was smoking


Other than that the inlets seem really cool and durable. Hopefully I can get this resolved soon. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

I was using my mmp inlet with cold air intake and inlet wasn't hitting, switched to DCI and inlets were free to move and I realized it was hitting the pulley, got long zip ties from autozone and attached the front inlet to plastic cover of radiator, it looks pretty fine

[sloweste9x]

Originally Posted by talhagursoy

I was using my mmp inlet with cold air intake and inlet wasn't hitting, switched to DCI and inlets were free to move and I realized it was hitting the pulley, got long zip ties from autozone and attached the front inlet to plastic cover of radiator, it looks pretty fine

Is it holding up? I did that but I only have about a cm of space and I'm worried if I hit a speed bump or something it'll rub.

[Chris@VargasTurboTech]

It can depend on the particular car -some seem to have a little more clearance than others, and the install makes a difference too. You may need to tie them to something like the fan shroud if clearance on your car is lacking.

I've had VTT inlets on my car ('07 e90) for about a year and a half, no rubbing and no ties necessary, but Tony had to tie the Blue car inlet to stop from hitting the alternator pulley.

[BQTuning]

Originally Posted by Chris@VargasTurboTech

It can depend on the particular car -some seem to have a little more clearance than others, and the install makes a difference too. You may need to tie them to something like the fan shroud if clearance on your car is lacking.

I've had VTT inlets on my car ('07 e90) for about a year and a half, no rubbing and no ties necessary, but Tony had to tie the Blue car inlet to stop from hitting the alternator pulley.

I have the VTT 2.0" (so I'm your customer) and it was rubbing on my Z4 which has more room than all the other N54 cars. When they were first installed the front inlet cleared the pulley without doubt. After couple of months the front inlet started to sag and drop down touching the pulley, more likely from the engine bay heat.

Its an issue with all silicone inlets from other vendors also, not just VTT based on what I have seen reported.

[Torgus]

Originally Posted by BuraQ

I have the VTT 2.0" (so I'm your customer) and it was rubbing on my Z4 which has more room than all the other N54 cars. When they were first installed the front inlet cleared the pulley without doubt. After couple of months the inlets started to sag and drop down touching the pulley more likely from the engine bay heat.

Its an issue with all silicone inlets from other vendors also, not just VTT, based on what I have seen reported.

seems like the answer is zip time them when you do the install or go for passenger side inlets.

[Chris@VargasTurboTech]

Originally Posted by BuraQ

I have the VTT 2.0" (so I'm your customer) and it was rubbing on my Z4 which has more room than all the other N54 cars. When they were first installed the front inlet cleared the pulley without doubt. After couple of months the front inlet started to sag and drop down touching the pulley, more likely from the engine bay heat.

Its an issue with all silicone inlets from other vendors also, not just VTT based on what I have seen reported.

Makes sense. It's pretty easy to tie them out of the way while you're there. Better safe than sorry.

Like I said though I've had mine on for over 20k miles, a year and a half, no ties and no rubbing.

P.S. Your Z4 is beautiful.

[sloweste9x]

Originally Posted by Chris@VargasTurboTech

It can depend on the particular car -some seem to have a little more clearance than others, and the install makes a difference too. You may need to tie them to something like the fan shroud if clearance on your car is lacking.

I've had VTT inlets on my car ('07 e90) for about a year and a half, no rubbing and no ties necessary, but Tony had to tie the Blue car inlet to stop from hitting the alternator pulley.

Thanks Chris, really appreciate the advice. I was actually looking into buying a set of your outlets because I broke the rubber/silicone piece at the end of the OEM one however I am running an HPF/OEM style coupling intercooler and on your website it says they will not fit OEM style couplings, however can I just put the silicone further down the intercooler and hose clamp it on? Also, back to the inlets lol, do you have any other good places to tie it down to stop it from hitting the alternator pulley? There's barely a cm of space and I'm worried the zip ties will stretch or I will hit a bump in the road or something like that.

Best- Max

[Tiago@VRSF]

We recommend using a zip/wire tie on the front inlet. Most cars don't require them but the engine does shift quite a bit so it is better to be safe than sorry.

[sloweste9x]

Originally Posted by Tiago@VRSF

We recommend using a zip/wire tie on the front inlet. Most cars don't require them but the engine does shift quite a bit so it is better to be safe than sorry.

Sweet thanks Tiago! I can't wait to rip this thing. I replaced the turbos this weekend so I haven't driven the car in about 4 days, and now that it has new snails and the inlets it should be a totally different machine. These inlets look super nice and I love the option to connect stock diverters should I ever choose to do so.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Zip tie is a quick easy fix and honestly they all need them. Even if it looks clear I wouldn't risk it without them.

[Chris@VargasTurboTech]

Originally Posted by mb21111

Thanks Chris, really appreciate the advice. I was actually looking into buying a set of your outlets because I broke the rubber/silicone piece at the end of the OEM one however I am running an HPF/OEM style coupling intercooler and on your website it says they will not fit OEM style couplings, however can I just put the silicone further down the intercooler and hose clamp it on? Also, back to the inlets lol, do you have any other good places to tie it down to stop it from hitting the alternator pulley? There's barely a cm of space and I'm worried the zip ties will stretch or I will hit a bump in the road or something like that.

Best- Max

They won't fit on an OEM style coupler. Could you rig something up? Yes, but I don't recommend it for most people. The problem with stacking adapters is that it's too easy to get leaks and have it be an immense pain to deal with. Plus you're likely to cause the transition to the FMIC inlet to be very far from ideal, undoing the purpose of the outlet in the first place. Outlets in general are a good upgrade to max out flow capability and help efficiency, but they aren't nearly as big of a deal as inlets are, especially at stock turbo levels.

Get some upgraded twins and it starts being a more wise decision, especially since you're already in there swapping other parts out. I hesitate to discourage a sale, but in your case sticking with OEM is probably your best bet, unless you want to offload your HPF FMIC and go to something even bigger... that is how the upgrade bug works, right? Plenty of vendors (even in this thread!) that would help you with a new FMIC.

I'm not sure where Tony tied his to, but I'd just look around -the fan shroud is a likely candidate. The zip ties won't stretch -use nice wide and heavy duty one (s) and make sure you trim the excess so that it's not in the way and not likely to cause rubbing issues anywhere else -basic good installation practice stuff. The silicone is pliable so will absorb minor bumps/vibration just fine. Make them snug; not so loose they're worthless and not so tight you now have zip ties wearing through your inlets.

Chris

[sloweste9x]

Originally Posted by Chris@VargasTurboTech

They won't fit on an OEM style coupler. Could you rig something up? Yes, but I don't recommend it for most people. The problem with stacking adapters is that it's too easy to get leaks and have it be an immense pain to deal with. Plus you're likely to cause the transition to the FMIC inlet to be very far from ideal, undoing the purpose of the outlet in the first place. Outlets in general are a good upgrade to max out flow capability and help efficiency, but they aren't nearly as big of a deal as inlets are, especially at stock turbo levels.

Get some upgraded twins and it starts being a more wise decision, especially since you're already in there swapping other parts out. I hesitate to discourage a sale, but in your case sticking with OEM is probably your best bet, unless you want to offload your HPF FMIC and go to something even bigger... that is how the upgrade bug works, right? Plenty of vendors (even in this thread!) that would help you with a new FMIC.

I'm not sure where Tony tied his to, but I'd just look around -the fan shroud is a likely candidate. The zip ties won't stretch -use nice wide and heavy duty one (s) and make sure you trim the excess so that it's not in the way and not likely to cause rubbing issues anywhere else -basic good installation practice stuff. The silicone is pliable so will absorb minor bumps/vibration just fine. Make them snug; not so loose they're worthless and not so tight you now have zip ties wearing through your inlets.

Chris

Thanks Chris you're the man

[Rob@RBTurbo]

I believe we are the only Inlet setup with the strategic bend around the pulleys, which helps immensely from not needing zip ties. I've never heard of anyone using them, but better safe than sorry if in any doubt.

As for the aforementioned OEM style adapter (see picture), we make them now if anyone is interested shoot us an email. Convenient way to convert your OEM/HPF/etc OEM circlip style IC coupler to a standard 2.5" bung.

Thanks,
Rob

[tdli]

Just checking back and see if anyone else has any feedback on pulley clearance on front inlets? Is it possible to do custom c hook type (same as on stock front inlet pipe) to clip and secure the fron inlet?

As for zip tie, I have vrsf cp, inlets on stock intercooler, I found it best to run a long zip tie and tie the front silicone inlet to the neck of driver side pipe before the intercooler.

[blown07]

Originally Posted by tdli

Just checking back and see if anyone else has any feedback on pulley clearance on front inlets? Is it possible to do custom c hook type (same as on stock front inlet pipe) to clip and secure the fron inlet?

As for zip tie, I have vrsf cp, inlets on stock intercooler, I found it best to run a long zip tie and tie the front silicone inlet to the neck of driver side pipe before the intercooler.

I had to run my front inlet over the rad hose as there was not enough clearance between the charge pipe and the bottom of the rad hose. I don't see any downsides to this as the filter remains in the same place and there is no way anything will rub on the pulleys.

[tdli]

Originally Posted by blown07

I had to run my front inlet over the rad hose as there was not enough clearance between the charge pipe and the bottom of the rad hose. I don't see any downsides to this as the filter remains in the same place and there is no way anything will rub on the pulleys.

Are you referring to the passenger side of the engine bay? I think the way the front inlet sits naturally, it will be go behind a radiator hose so the order (from front the firewall) should be: radiator hose -> front inlet -> engine block

The closest distance I have between the inlet and pulley/belt is about 4-5 mm of clearance.

[blown07]

Originally Posted by tdli

Are you referring to the passenger side of the engine bay? I think the way the front inlet sits naturally, it will be go behind a radiator hose so the order (from front the firewall) should be: radiator hose -> front inlet -> engine block

The closest distance I have between the inlet and pulley/belt is about 4-5 mm of clearance.

No I'm referring to the drivers side. Instead of charge pipe/inlet/rad hose I did charge pipe/rad hose/inlet. Impossible for it to rub on any pulleys. I did however have to cut the accordion portion of the stock air intake off. I can post a pic if you would like.

[tdli]

Originally Posted by blown07

No I'm referring to the drivers side. Instead of charge pipe/inlet/rad hose I did charge pipe/rad hose/inlet. Impossible for it to rub on any pulleys. I did however have to cut the accordion portion of the stock air intake off. I can post a pic if you would like.

Can you please share a picture? Interested to see your setup.

[blown07]

Originally Posted by tdli

Can you please share a picture? Interested to see your setup.

Here you go

[tdli]

^ thanks so much. BTW, what kind of oil cooler setup is that?

[blown07]

Originally Posted by tdli

^ thanks so much. BTW, what kind of oil cooler setup is that?

It's a Stett but I would not recommend it due to cost and leaking AN fittings I had to change.